a bit of help please with 727 transmission

saylor

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hi all -so im changing the shifter seal and kickdown seal on a 727 transmission... im dorkin around and a bearing and spring come out from somewhere. I THINK it goes into a little hole on top of the valve body, but does the spring go in, then the ball? or the ball, then the spring? 727trans-valvebody.jpg I hope yall can see this pic,, its SPRING and PIN and BALL on the diagram. .. thanks all. - Saylor

727trans-valvebody.jpg
 
i got it, and it sucked. pin is in, spring, then ball. the ball rides in the ratchet teeth of the shift selector thing
 
I'm not certain which ball your talking about, but if your valve body is non part throttle kickdown and the ball is 3/8 in. diameter it's the high pressure relief valve.Look at the separator plate (thin sheet metal piece) in the corner you will see where the ball has been hitting. It will look the ball has been trying to come through the plate. The ball sits in the spring.
 
Never mind LOL. I was talking about something totally different.
 
well crap,, i cant get it into park... i was all the way back to putting the linkage back on....i figure i dont have the teeth in the correct spot for park :/
 
That stinks, I wish I could give you some advice but I'm no help. I will be doing the same thing when I get my car back from paint. Let us know how things go I know I could use any tips myself when I go to change mine out.
 
ok theres a lot of lessons in there if you never have done this before (like me).... im freaking beat down :) -and im not for sure 100% that its together correctly . . . . but its together, and we will see. I have some photos ill get online so the next guy doesn't get such an *** kickin... the park pawl (?) was not engaged properly into some plunger it controls at the valve body,, I had to take it all loose and get the pawl into the plunger spot then put it back together.
 
I swear someone had this same problem here a long time ago. I can't find it, tho....

< Sent from my tablet >
 
727trans-valvebody-top.jpg the small seal is NAPA # 1-3308 oil seal. its the kickdown lever and seal ... the top lever. OH OH OH see the round part at the top of pic,,, there is a large spring that sits there.. I think the 1-2 spring? Anyways, when you take off the valve body, the spring is pushing down... push up from below while unbolting valve body.. valve body bolts are all the same length, are 7/16, throw them into the pan while you are working, and the big spring too.

727trans-valvebody-top.jpg
 
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727trans-shift-seal-removal.jpg the shift seal is NAPA # 1-4582. doing this in car,, don't try to fish the seal out from the top side with a pick,, I wasted a day trying this. I finally dropped the valve body and poked it out from the bottom side upwards..easy peasy.

727trans-shift-seal-removal.jpg
 
20130428_155421.jpg NAPA # 1-4582 shift seal. going in. my homemade bearing press. not just for BMX bottom brackets :) its threaded rod, 3/4 nuts, and washers top and bottom. pinch together until tight, let loose, readjust, and do it again, until the seal is seated. at the end I used a tapered nose S&K 15/16 socket to get the final countersink on it... you want it flush as possible, it must not be higher than the housing,, it sits IN there

20130428_155421.jpg
 
View attachment 11275 NAPA # 1-4582 shift seal. going in. my homemade bearing press. not just for BMX bottom brackets :) its threaded rod, 3/4 nuts, and washers top and bottom. pinch together until tight, let loose, readjust, and do it again, until the seal is seated. at the end I used a tapered nose S&K 15/16 socket to get the final countersink on it... you want it flush as possible, it must not be higher than the housing,, it sits IN there
You're the man, you answered 2 of my question before I could ask it.:eek:ccasion14:
 
dude I was seriously googlin for yalls phone numbers when that spring and ball fell out . . I was toast. I did spend all damn day putting this back together (simple job right?) but I learned more than I wanted (but probably needed to learn it..never done transmission work before), but I understand how this car gets into P R N D 2 1 now . . .
 
ok the thing that caused this all was when I took the e clip off of the top of the kickdown seal, that lets everything loose. then I took out the actual kickdown lever. between that and moving the valve body around , that let it slack enough that the ' rooster ' (the shift thing with the ratchet teeth) got out of line with the spring loaded ball, and then the spring behind the ball ejected the ball, and then the spring fell out. To get it back in there was a PITA. I put in the spring, then the ball, then caught the ball with the edge of the rooster and held it there. Then I took a shorty flathead screwdriver and held the ball in, while getting the rooster back into position. it took many tries. put the whole thing in a cardboard box - that way when the ball launches, it stays in the box, and not across the driveway or garage.
 
I did the valve body bolts (7/16 socket) to 10 ft lbs, and the pan bolts (1/2 socket) to 12.5 ft lbs. I think.
 
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Yeah - the trick is to not pull down on the castings, but support the casting and push down on the selector outside the case. If you pull down the selector can get stuck in the seal and then the casting pulls down, the ball and spring pop out, and you might as well pull the valve body out of the car to get it back in...lol. Damn near broke my glasses the first time i did that when the ball went flying.
 
good call ^^

this was my first rodeo :/

I did end up pulling the valve body too exactly that ... instead of yanking the parking rod out I undid the eclip at the parking rod and removed the valve body and left the rod in place. then fixed the stupid shifter rooster and put it back :)

that's when I learned the dangly part of the lever goes in between a pushrod in the valve body ,, not to the outside of the pushrod. I put it all together and only had 3 shift spots... had to undo it all again. several times.

once you are together again work the gear selector at column and make sure it is travelling full range p r n d 2 1.
 
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