Bad touch-up correction

[GJS]

I've got a lot of time to play with this but I thought I'd throw it out to you guys. My Monaco's paint is pretty scraped up with a few heartbreaking dents in places. Nothing I can't live with for a few years. A few of the scrapes are through the primer which, again, wouldn't be a big deal had the PO not touched them up lightly with a rattle can of very wrong colored paint.
The coats were so lightly applied with no primer, they have light surface rust happening.

Being that I'm going to have to clean the rust out and touch up again anyway, I'd like to try and get the overage off as well. I'm certain that the paint used is of a different chemical make up than the factory. What do you think is my best bet? I wouldn't want to be too harsh chemically and I know some very delicate elbow grease will be involved.

Let me know what you think!
Thanks!

 

[bluefury361]

[QUOTE
The coats were so lightly applied with no primer, they have light surface rust happening.

Being that I'm going to have to clean the rust out and touch up again anyway, I'd like to try and get the overage off as well. QUOTE]

Block sand with 800/1000 paper, treat the bare metal with an etching solution. Prime and block sand again. Color match as close as possible if desired.

 

[Big_John]

Since the car was originally finished in enamel, and chances are that the touch up paint is lacquer, you may be able to wash it off with some lacquer thinner. I would really proceed with a lot of caution if you do that. Try the lacquer thinner on a very small spot first.

The other way, as Will suggested, is to wet sand the paint off with 800-1000 grit and then buff the old paint with some rubbing compound. If the paint is as thin as you say, you might even be able to remove it with just the rubbing compound.

This all is gonna depend on what the PO did before he sprayed it.... If he sanded it, you might not be coming back from this easily...

Here's just another thought.... Hit the areas with a pressure washer. I've had paint like this flake and blow off. It might be worth a shot.

 

[GJS]

Since the car was originally finished in enamel, and chances are that the touch up paint is lacquer, you may be able to wash it off with some lacquer thinner. I would really proceed with a lot of caution if you do that. Try the lacquer thinner on a very small spot first.

The other way, as Will suggested, is to wet sand the paint off with 800-1000 grit and then buff the old paint with some rubbing compound. If the paint is as thin as you say, you might even be able to remove it with just the rubbing compound.

This all is gonna depend on what the PO did before he sprayed it.... If he sanded it, you might not be coming back from this easily...

Here's just another thought.... Hit the areas with a pressure washer. I've had paint like this flake and blow off. It might be worth a shot.

I'm under the impression that nothing was sanded prior to applying the touch up. The edge around the scratches are way too sharp. There are a few places I can test the lac thinner without risk so I'll definitely try that. If it gets gummy I'll lay off. The original paint looks thick enough to take a light weight sanding.
I'm not going for perfection, I'd just like it a little less noticeable and better sealed for the time being. For what he did, he may as well have circled the scratches with a bright red paint marker.

Thanks all!

 

[pomonamissel]

no need to sand , just make a compound past with heavy and some micro fine compound with some polish n cleaner all mixed together . a wool pad on a slow , not a grinder speed , a polisher is about half the rpm . get that polisher wool pad on its power edge , and put some arm in it . like magic , it begins . just tough to keep it going even over the whole car . go from dead flat to a shiner with elbow grease . sanding it will cut to much . just buff that baked enamel finish to a jewel shine . be carefull on the edges , paint is the thinnest there .

 

[GJS]

no need to sand , just make a compound past with heavy and some micro fine compound with some polish n cleaner all mixed together . a wool pad on a slow , not a grinder speed , a polisher is about half the rpm . get that polisher wool pad on its power edge , and put some arm in it . like magic , it begins . just tough to keep it going even over the whole car . go from dead flat to a shiner with elbow grease . sanding it will cut to much . just buff that baked enamel finish to a jewel shine . be carefull on the edges , paint is the thinnest there .

I've got access to a random orbital type polisher and a couple of clean wool pads. I'll give that a shot too. Thanks!

 

[pomonamissel]

it called a '' used car special '' buffed back to it former gleaming glory . i never used an orbital type , mine looks like a old school grinder , keep a tool to clean your pad with , alot of matl (paint n mix) will plug up your pad . i use a screw driver blade , fire it up and drag its tip across the pad . fluffs the pad as well . if you do some hand rubbing around the tight stuff , trim and moldings emblems you won't get cot working hard around them , all ways the chance catching your pad on them , it can bend or rip a molding up .

 

[pomonamissel]

this survivor was just done by hand , it could have gone under the buffer although . original owner kept on cover i the garage . wore through the paint on the high edges .

 

[GJS]

it called a '' used car special '' buffed back to it former gleaming glory . i never used an orbital type , mine looks like a old school grinder , keep a tool to clean your pad with , alot of matl (paint n mix) will plug up your pad . i use a screw driver blade , fire it up and drag its tip across the pad . fluffs the pad as well . if you do some hand rubbing around the tight stuff , trim and moldings emblems you won't get cot working hard around them , all ways the chance catching your pad on them , it can bend or rip a molding up .

Thankfully there was no touch up done near any trim pieces .. dude would have likely painted right over it anyway!

 

[GJS]

this survivor was just done by hand , it could have gone under the buffer although . original owner kept on cover i the garage . wore through the paint on the high edges .

I could get away with doing mine by hand other than the touch up crap... too bad really, nothing I love more than a day of rubbing paint out.

 

[pomonamissel]

well at least you like it , lol .

 

[rapidtrans]

I've used Laquer thinner or Enamel reducer to remove rattle can spray paint depending on spray can paint used. Shouldn't affect factory paint. In fact these are often used as cleaners. Rubbing compound and a good polisher is my second pick. Wet sanding would be my third choice.

 

[GJS]

well at least you like it , lol .

I'm a weird dude that way. It's not my favorite thing but it beats the damned gym.

 

[GJS]

I've used Laquer thinner or Enamel reducer to remove rattle can spray paint depending on spray can paint used. Shouldn't affect factory paint. In fact these are often used as cleaners. Rubbing compound and a good polisher is my second pick. Wet sanding would be my third choice.

I can't imagine what brand it is but judging by the silicon rear window leak "fix" that was done, prolly not the highest of quality.

 

[rapidtrans]

I keep a can both thinners on hand. Just dampen a rag and spraypaint will wipe off. Enamel reducer won't remove lacquer and vise a verse.

 

[moper]

What color is the car?

 

[GJS]

ZS2 cream n gold. It appears that one of the POs took a yellow colored rattle Can to it... can't tell what kind of paint but it seems more flat than the original and definately a different color.