Engine swap should I go 360 or 383

I'm not saying any way is right or wrong. But I am saying that 440 is the answer to all questions. Easy to build an LA that would stomp any factory big block these days. I have been wanting to do a late model 360 magnum for a while.

But if your wife says do you want to go out for burgers or get a pizza? 440. Am I wrong or does it just fit every time?

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Yes sir I hear you but I'm planning on using the fury for pretty much my daily driver so I was also thinking about mpg as well. I think the 360 will keep me happy for now and somewhere down the line I'll go big block for sure.
 
Just bolt that thing in there and run it. If you were happy with the car other than get up n go, you’ll be happy with the 360. Use a good distributor with a decent advance curve and slap your favorite 4 barrel on and proceed to beating on it.

If it has a stock iron 4 barrel manifold on it, you can mod it to use a square bore carb without a giant spacer/adapter. If you need info on that, see vids on YouTube by 318willrun.
Travis..
 
Just bolt that thing in there and run it. If you were happy with the car other than get up n go, you’ll be happy with the 360. Use a good distributor with a decent advance curve and slap your favorite 4 barrel on and proceed to beating on it.

If it has a stock iron 4 barrel manifold on it, you can mod it to use a square bore carb without a giant spacer/adapter. If you need info on that, see vids on YouTube by 318willrun.
Travis..
Yea that's pretty much the plan just gonna do quick clean up on it new gaskets, valve covers, maybe a new carburetor and intake and slap it in and go.
 
Yes, freeze plugs. If you do no others, do the 2 on the back behind the flex plate no matter how good they look from the outside.
Travis..
 
Yes, freeze plugs. If you do no others, do the 2 on the back behind the flex plate no matter how good they look from the outside.
Travis..
Will do thanks for the advice. Should I run the stock 4 barrel manifold and carb or get new stuff, and any advice on what should I get will be appreciated im learning as I go. Thanks
 
Will do thanks for the advice. Should I run the stock 4 barrel manifold and carb or get new stuff, and any advice on what should I get will be appreciated im learning as I go. Thanks
Cheaper to reuse original, rebuild or replace the carb, providing the 318 intake fits the 360 heads properly.
 
Here's a pic of the 4 barrel 360 I bought. Was in a 76 tradesman motorhome has 55k miles on it runs good and is pretty responsive for how long it's been sitting. I will remove and start rebuilding it in a week or so.

IMG_20240824_080518.jpg
 
Another question so I'm pulling the engine this upcoming weekend can I use the motor mounts from the van are they compatible to my cbody fury or do I have to get a conversion setup from Schumacher or somewhere?
 
Your Poly engine mounts will almost work, a driver side mod regarding it's spacing needs to be addressed. Maybe make up the slight difference with washers to act as a spacer. Has anyone mentioned you'll need a car oil pan for the 360?
 
Your Poly engine mounts will almost work, a driver side mod regarding it's spacing needs to be addressed. Maybe make up the slight difference with washers to act as a spacer. Has anyone mentioned you'll need a car oil pan for the 360?
Really no one has said anything about needing to switch the oil pan I was under the impression it was pretty much just drop it in and go
 
Van pan will be rear sump. Your steering linkage is going to want to occupy this same space.
Ok well that changes my whole plan and timeframe that I was planning to do the swap I guess I have to find me a 360 oil pan for a car.. thank you sir your input is greatly appreciated
 
Ok well that changes my whole plan and timeframe that I was planning to do the swap I guess I have to find me a 360 oil pan for a car.. thank you sir your input is greatly appreciated
So I would need an oil pan with a center sump is that correct sorry if my questions seem repetitive I am trying to figure this out.
 
Yes, center sump car pan with oil pump pickup tube. It must be for an LA 360 engine, anything from 70’s-80-s car will work.

In the pic, it looks like intake manifold may have already been swapped to aluminum, likely edelbrock performer. Also, use the carb that’s on it, it’s an edelbrock. If it needs attention, buy an edelbrock rebuild kit for it.

The poly motor mounts will work with a little massaging. The drivers side ears on the 360 are closer together, and will likely have a bolt hole that isn’t on the motor mount bracket. It may need drilling, or a piece welded on to work. You need minimum 3 bolts on each side of the engine. Pass side will likely work with no mods, but don’t be surprised if it needs attention too. I don’t know if anyone makes correct motor mount brackets aftermarket, I’ve never engine swapped a c body. Most of the car stuff was standardized around ‘66, earlier cars use less common parts that aren’t as commonly re-popped because there’s no direct interchange with popular muscle cars.

The water pump inlet will likely be on the wrong side from your stock radiator. 2 options really, run old water pump which will likely block easy sight of your timing tab, or swap radiator.

It’s good that you got a complete functioning motor/trans combo. You will be ahead not having to source kickdown linkage and all of the small stuff. You’ll be time and money ahead making it functional in your car.

Travis..
 
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I just went back to the first post, I couldn’t remember what the hell car you have. Being a 66, you may be better off if you need aftermarket Knick knacks, so there’s that.

If you’re planning on a/c in the future, just leave all of the front accessories from the Moho on there. If you are not going a/c and want it clean looking, swap the 318 p/s pump and alt on the 360.

Very nice car btw, it like the 2 tone blue insides.

Travis..
 
Yes, center sump car pan with oil pump pickup tube. It must be for an LA 360 engine, anything from 70’s-80-s car will work.

In the pic, it looks like intake manifold may have already been swapped to aluminum, likely edelbrock performer. Also, use the carb that’s on it, it’s an edelbrock. If it needs attention, buy an edelbrock rebuild kit for it.

The poly motor mounts will work with a little massaging. The drivers side ears on the 360 are closer together, and will likely have a bolt hole that isn’t on the motor mount bracket. It may need drilling, or a piece welded on to work. You need minimum 3 bolts on each side of the engine. Pass side will likely work with no mods, but don’t be surprised if it needs attention too. I don’t know if anyone makes correct motor mount brackets aftermarket, I’ve never engine swapped a c body. Most of the car stuff was standardized around ‘66, earlier cars use less common parts that aren’t as commonly re-popped because there’s no direct interchange with popular muscle cars.

The water pump inlet will likely be on the wrong side from your stock radiator. 2 options really, run old water pump which will likely block easy sight of your timing tab, or swap radiator.

It’s good that you got a complete functioning motor/trans combo. You will be ahead not having to source kickdown linkage and all of the small stuff. You’ll be time and money ahead making it functional in your car.

Travis..
Ok so I get a new oil pan could I use the oil pump pickup tube from my poly or is it not compatible
 
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