Finally have a C Body!

Yeah, I think I'm going to pull the rest of the top end apart first. It's already partially apart anyway and I want to see what is going on in there. There has to be something wrong in the first place for the guy to have started pulling it apart. I will keep everyone posted as I progress. Thanks again for all the advice! :)
 
Yeah, I think I'm going to pull the rest of the top end apart first. It's already partially apart anyway and I want to see what is going on in there. There has to be something wrong in the first place for the guy to have started pulling it apart. I will keep everyone posted as I progress. Thanks again for all the advice! :)

Did you happen to look under the car and look if the oil pan bolts have been played with? Yeah, your best bet is to pull the top end apart and take a look. Couple hours of work to know what going on is worth it. There's a reason why that motor is partially apart.
 
The oil pan is still on and oil is clean. The right side rocker arm assembly is off, so I'm thinking something went amiss in the top end.
 
Yeah, pull it apart,..then you'll have a good look at the top of the pistons and cyl walls at least. Then you can clean up some of the rust and what not and them soak it with some cheap trans fluid. If she turns over after that, then I would get the heads done. Clean the motor paint it up. Is that a MOPAR performance intake? That will also clean up really nice. You have plans to recam it?

Gotta take pictures when you get it apart. Cool project!
 
Hmm, wondering what 383 is in it? I'm pretty sure there were three 383's for it. 2-bbl standard, and the other two are 4-bbl models I think. 2-bbl 9 to 1 and the 4bbl's are 10 to 1. I guess you would need to check the vin number. 906 heads also. Easy way to check that since the valve covers are off,.look at the last 3 casting numbers on the heads!!
 
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For 1968, my Encyclopedia of American Cars shows the 383/270 as standard for Polara (there was a 318, but it seems to have been a separate trim level), with 383/290 and 383/330 optional engines.
 
Well that's a good step finding it has the 906 heads, now on the left hand side of the engine block they'll be a 7 digit casting number or look on the front top part of the motor, there will be an ID boss,.right side or middle with stamped numbers. Write them down and post them here. Detective work..!!

Anyway of finding out what the history is on the car? Like why the motor was taken apart?
 
On the flat surface right by the distributor is has a casting D383 and 16 R. Does that mean anything besides that it's a 383?
 
Here is the fender tag. Can you guys decode it? ftag.jpg

ftag.jpg
 
My progress today. The biggest news is that I got the motor unstuck!!! Once I got the water pump and everything out of the way, I figured I'd put the socket on it and give it one more try, and she popped loose! I guess last time I just couldn't get a good enough pull on it with the fan and everything in the way. So now I'm stuck with the decision to go ahead and pull the heads off, or just put it back together and see what happens!

IMG_20140320_161815498.jpg

IMG_20140320_161815498.jpg
 
Anyway of finding out what the history is on the car? Like why the motor was taken apart?

Story I was told from my buddy up in Washington: It was some kids "dream car" but he fell on hard times and couldn't drive it anymore. So it sat. He doesn't live in the best of neighborhoods, so people started pulling parts off it. I could see that being true for the carb and valve cover. But it was also missing the rocker arm assembly on the right side (left side was loose but not off), spark plugs and distributor. I mean, who takes the time to steal spark plugs out of a motor????
 
Looks pretty clean. I don't recall how many miles is on it or if you've even said but I'd bolt it back up and run it. If you pull those heads you'll go deeper and it may not be necessary. Squirt some oil down in the cylinders though, let that soak in a little then slowly turn it over a few times then change the oil and pour some new over the valve train to get them lubed up good and put it back together and fire it up.

Congrats too btw :)
 
h7 - 517 - Hood/Fender Turn Indicators
R1 - 421 - Radio, AM
X2 - 522 - Tinted Windows, Windshield Only
D - Dodge
L - Low
2 - 2-Door
3 - Hardtop
6 - 383
1 - 2-bbl
5 - Automatic
53 - 8.25x14 Whitewall
115 - January 15, 1968
176140 - Shipping Order
AX - 1 - 2.76:1 non Sure-Grip
TRM - L4X Low/Bench/Black
PNT - KK1 - Medium Turquoise Metallic
1 - 4 - Moulding, Body Sill, Narrow
3 - 0 - Moulding, Beltline
7 - 8 - Moulding, Wheel Lip



Alan
 
'D' says It's a 68 383! Nice.

It it looks clean inside the motor. Pour some trans fluid down the spark plug holes and let it sit a day. Turn it over by hand and then change the oil and pour some on the lifters and and rockers and so forth. Put it back together and fire it up and see what happens.

It's such a hard call. Yeah you can just put it back together and she what happens. But if you have the funds, put a new set of lifters in since it's apart and clean the pushrods, rockers and shafts before you put it back together. Maybe a timing chain a gear set too. Hmmm, a new cam!?
 
Good news Man! If you had a dial indicator you could actually set it up and see what kind of lift is left on that cam and the fuel pump lobe, definitely check the chain, be a good idea to check the fuel pump pushrod itself for length. Still have the steel shim head gaskets under the heads? If it does, it could use hardened seats, bigger valves, new springs, etc...
 
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