There actually is one dent on the passenger´s side rear door, right under the handle.
Impster - the big&white
- Thread starter ImpJay
- Start date
There actually is one dent on the passenger´s side rear door, right under the handle.
None of us are perfect...
Don´t care about the comments on the vid, they´re about the speed my dad was driving at that time. I did let him drive a spin after he had asked for it a few times.
Before getting Impster out, I did try to start her quite many times. Then our friend came up with a timing light to check spark. The distributor was not distributing anything because the coil lead was off due to that I had to make extra space to tighten the rearmost exhaust manifold bolt on the passenger´s side last Sunday.
After reinstalling that, the 440 did fire right up.
Before getting Impster out, I did try to start her quite many times. Then our friend came up with a timing light to check spark. The distributor was not distributing anything because the coil lead was off due to that I had to make extra space to tighten the rearmost exhaust manifold bolt on the passenger´s side last Sunday.
After reinstalling that, the 440 did fire right up.
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Somebody can´t attend to events in excess of two before a wash up. 
I also took the right valve cover off to check the valve train because every now and then it makes a ticking noise. The reason for that is the rockers are able to move a bit on the longitudinal axis of the rocker shaft when the valve springs are not much compressed. I´m on the way to get the FSM in my hands...
That´ll continue in no time because I ``must`` get at the Mopar Meet in early June.
I also took the right valve cover off to check the valve train because every now and then it makes a ticking noise. The reason for that is the rockers are able to move a bit on the longitudinal axis of the rocker shaft when the valve springs are not much compressed. I´m on the way to get the FSM in my hands...
That´ll continue in no time because I ``must`` get at the Mopar Meet in early June.
Thinking about the valve train
@CBODY67
I´ll hand this case over to the local shop (American Service) since they have more know-how than I or my dad. Today I tightened the rocker shaft properly, which did cure the rocker arm slack, but there´s some other noise and the device to measure the oil pressure is yet on my bucket list.
Special thanks to you.
Some pictures:
Those pieces of plastic pictured above were removed from under the valve cover.
@MarPar There´s this much of space between the coil and log.
@CBODY67
I´ll hand this case over to the local shop (American Service) since they have more know-how than I or my dad. Today I tightened the rocker shaft properly, which did cure the rocker arm slack, but there´s some other noise and the device to measure the oil pressure is yet on my bucket list.
Special thanks to you.
Some pictures:
Those pieces of plastic pictured above were removed from under the valve cover.
@MarPar There´s this much of space between the coil and log.
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Who´s got knowledge about head numbers?
13
23
3322
I bet that the ``3322`` is the end of a casting number, but I can´t find a full code on the Internet and therefore the original engine/vehicle combination.
13
23
3322
I bet that the ``3322`` is the end of a casting number, but I can´t find a full code on the Internet and therefore the original engine/vehicle combination.
You are looking at the wrong numbers.
Plastic is pieces of the valve seals. Typical old Mopar. They harden and break apart. You might see a little smoke from the exhaust when it first starts, but not a big deal. Most of the old ones are running around like that.
From the description on your other thread, it sounds like lifter noise... It happens, especially if the car doesn't get driven a lot. It may quiet down when you get some miles and an oil change under its belt.
Plastic is pieces of the valve seals. Typical old Mopar. They harden and break apart. You might see a little smoke from the exhaust when it first starts, but not a big deal. Most of the old ones are running around like that.
From the description on your other thread, it sounds like lifter noise... It happens, especially if the car doesn't get driven a lot. It may quiet down when you get some miles and an oil change under its belt.
The Chevy 454 uses an orange silicone valve seal, as the OEM Chrysler B/RB seal is black. The Chevy seal is taller, so a little trimming to the same height as the OEM Chrysler seals is all that's needed.
It could be that the umbrella valve stem seals act similarly to the TF rear seal. As long as the inner bushing has little wear, the rear seal does not leak. But when the bushing wears, the rear seal will start to leak, as the bushing allows for more circular (a bigger "circle") as the drive shaft rotates. Similarly, as the valve guide wears, the valve seals will get a bigger hole and eventually crack with time, age, and heat cycles.
Also, one service manual I have mentions that worn valve guides can make a sound similar to "lifter noise". The FSM mentions a "wobble method" to check such clearance with a dial indicator. The best way to do it is to measure the guide ID and the worn valve stem OD for each valve/guide interface. Which means removing the head and disassembling it. I don't know that you're ready for that just yet?
The valve stem seals can be changed by pressurizing the cylinder with "shop air", to hold the valve closed as the spring is removed. Then new seals can be installed, the spring/'retainer/lock items can be reinstalled at that time. Without taking the cyl heads off of the block.
So, I'd say to get them to check the oil pressure, get an estimate on the valve stem seal replacements, and go from there. IF a compression check shows one cyl (usually #7 from my 383 experiences) has lower compression, then an exhaust valve might be starting to "burn", needing replacement in the future.
Keep us posted on what they find, please.
CBODY67
It could be that the umbrella valve stem seals act similarly to the TF rear seal. As long as the inner bushing has little wear, the rear seal does not leak. But when the bushing wears, the rear seal will start to leak, as the bushing allows for more circular (a bigger "circle") as the drive shaft rotates. Similarly, as the valve guide wears, the valve seals will get a bigger hole and eventually crack with time, age, and heat cycles.
Also, one service manual I have mentions that worn valve guides can make a sound similar to "lifter noise". The FSM mentions a "wobble method" to check such clearance with a dial indicator. The best way to do it is to measure the guide ID and the worn valve stem OD for each valve/guide interface. Which means removing the head and disassembling it. I don't know that you're ready for that just yet?
The valve stem seals can be changed by pressurizing the cylinder with "shop air", to hold the valve closed as the spring is removed. Then new seals can be installed, the spring/'retainer/lock items can be reinstalled at that time. Without taking the cyl heads off of the block.
So, I'd say to get them to check the oil pressure, get an estimate on the valve stem seal replacements, and go from there. IF a compression check shows one cyl (usually #7 from my 383 experiences) has lower compression, then an exhaust valve might be starting to "burn", needing replacement in the future.
Keep us posted on what they find, please.
CBODY67
I do that for sure.
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If that’s a ‘67 engine with its original heads they will a casting number that ends in either 516 or 915.
At least that model year is evident on a couple of old for sale ads and the intake manifold (2806178) has the same paint (the black on top and the turquoise under it) as the heads and the block, so I believe to that it is from the late 60s, though someone may have installed older parts to a newer block years ago. The performance speaks for that.
Any way, the lifters did stop making the noise after changing oil and making sure that there now is enough of oil.
I added air into the front tires and cleaned the car a bit.
I rubbed some scratches to smoothen the paint a bit.
These numbers are on the engine block:
10 26 and
3698830 440 9 are on the right side of the block
J440 is on the pad with some other numbers
I have to recheck the casting number on the left side.
The transmission needs further investigating.
The engine highly likely has some livelier internals swapped to it along with the intake etc. because it doesn´t feel to be a ``smog block`` 440.
BTW, someone has ground off a slice of the valve covers, so I´ll replace them with stock equivalents some day.
The carb is adjusted way too rich because it is too small for the 440 = 1850 is the id number of a 600 cfm Holley with single accelerator pump.
These numbers are on the engine block:
10 26 and
3698830 440 9 are on the right side of the block
J440 is on the pad with some other numbers
I have to recheck the casting number on the left side.
The transmission needs further investigating.
The engine highly likely has some livelier internals swapped to it along with the intake etc. because it doesn´t feel to be a ``smog block`` 440.
BTW, someone has ground off a slice of the valve covers, so I´ll replace them with stock equivalents some day.
The carb is adjusted way too rich because it is too small for the 440 = 1850 is the id number of a 600 cfm Holley with single accelerator pump.
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The RH side rear wheel cover did go free wheeling and it wiped the fender skirt to go with it. No other harm was caused other than that the car behind me hit the wheel cover after that did rebound from the curb and the fender skirt bracket did come off of the wheel well. Plus now a charging issue is evident.
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Rather than shotgun the parts, why not try doing a diagnosis on what the problem is? It may be one or the other, probably not both, or it may even be something very simple. All it takes is a simple jumper wire to test those two pieces.
This is the easiest way to do it. You'll have to make a jumper wire that can connect to the field connection on the alternator and to a convenient ground. I just have a small alligator clip on mine.
Disconnect the green field wire at the alternator.
Run the jumper wire from the field connection on the alternator to ground.
Connect voltmeter to battery
Turn on headlights (this creates a load)
Start the car, and take a reading at the voltmeter at idle and one at around 1500-2000 RPM
If the voltmeter reads 14+ volts, the alternator is good, but the voltage regulator (or wiring) is bad.
If the voltmeter is still 12 volts, the problem is in the alternator.
This duplicates the test procedure in the FSM, except you are using the headlights instead of a carbon pile to load the system.
More about it.
The 1970 Alternator & Regulator (Session 269) from the Master Technician's Service Conference
This is the stuff that separates the men from the boys. It's changing parts to take a chance that the problem is fixed or actually figuring out what it wrong and correcting the problem.
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