Impster - the big&white
- Thread starter ImpJay
- Start date
The anti-theft device I suspected earlier is not an aftermarket system, but the new-for-73 factory alarm system. 
It´s not complete anymore, but at least some features are functional.
This is the lock-alarm switch, which...
mounts to this square hole drilled to the steering column support.
Basically an engine block heater, fancier radio with the microphone, power sun roof, child safety door locks and the dealer-installed rear shoulder belts are the only missing options, which were available to single 73 Imperial.
The left front fender got paint today, but it´s not good enough as is.
It´s not complete anymore, but at least some features are functional.
This is the lock-alarm switch, which...
mounts to this square hole drilled to the steering column support.
Basically an engine block heater, fancier radio with the microphone, power sun roof, child safety door locks and the dealer-installed rear shoulder belts are the only missing options, which were available to single 73 Imperial.
The left front fender got paint today, but it´s not good enough as is.
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Hello guys!
Today I tried a paint gun for the second time in my life.
The PCV valve is finally connected to the carburetor. Hose!
All the door panels are back on the doors with splash shields also in the back doors. Like you see, I "drew across the lines" with...
These door lock knobs. At first I was searching for OE style knobs made of metal, but then these showed up. Real metal on top, just a little part of genuine wood and the rest of metal = great!
Plus the shape is completely cylindrical, which doesn't draw attention like dice, cones, etc. and these are the oddity that I didn't compare to any other knobs - just bought them by looks.
Today I tried a paint gun for the second time in my life.
The PCV valve is finally connected to the carburetor. Hose!
All the door panels are back on the doors with splash shields also in the back doors. Like you see, I "drew across the lines" with...
These door lock knobs. At first I was searching for OE style knobs made of metal, but then these showed up. Real metal on top, just a little part of genuine wood and the rest of metal = great!
Plus the shape is completely cylindrical, which doesn't draw attention like dice, cones, etc. and these are the oddity that I didn't compare to any other knobs - just bought them by looks.
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Currently we've been repainting the hood and front fenders and I decided to spare you from the dust-sand-paint-run-down-sand-paint-more-dust-sand-paint...
Today sort of mid paint (too yellow for final coats) was sprayed down to cover the primer as well as to show possible grease, holes, whatsoever to sand before spraying the white paint.
Today sort of mid paint (too yellow for final coats) was sprayed down to cover the primer as well as to show possible grease, holes, whatsoever to sand before spraying the white paint.
2 1/2 hours of covering and then painting the hood, trunk lid and inner top sections of the front fenders with not too good results. 
There's sand paper on the shelves, the paint will buff out after sanding...
There you see some "artistic license" i.e. I removed the "by Chrysler" script.
There's sand paper on the shelves, the paint will buff out after sanding...
There you see some "artistic license" i.e. I removed the "by Chrysler" script.
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The steering wheel is back! Now the horns are functional after taking out the insulation , which insulates the contact spring from everything else than the two tabs, which made of a bottle cap and replacing it with a plastic disc.
I'm waiting to get the dash ready for completing. A bit of masochism included... 
It's far from nice, but I'm just fine with this steering wheel for now.
Now the horns are functional after taking out the insulation , which insulates the contact spring from everything else than the two tabs, which made of a bottle cap and replacing it with a plastic disc. I'm waiting to get the dash ready for completing. A bit of masochism included... It's far from nice, but I'm just fine with this steering wheel for now.
Wow. That took awhile. Probably faster if I sailed them to you in a bottle.
Wow. That took awhile. Probably faster if I sailed them to you in a bottle.
Quicker than if I'd sent something to MN...
Let's go back to that infamous Fuselage dash board. If anybody has tips to get it back together, I'd like to read them. We tried to get it back in today, which was not too hard, but the wires and the speedo cable are the tricky ones.
The FSM tells to lower the steering column, but it won't help with all wires.
PS. The steering wheel isn't a big obstacle.
The FSM tells to lower the steering column, but it won't help with all wires.
PS. The steering wheel isn't a big obstacle.
LeBaron1973
Old Man with a Hat
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Don't worry, you gave it a shot and will learn from your friend. All the best for a great 2020.Well, the last time we painted on our own didn't go quite well...
One garage friend promised to paint the trunk lid and hood once those are sanded.
View attachment 350510
In the photos you see the one of one Finnish heater system installed to an Imp. 
One of the POs had had this done.
The ballast resistor reduces the electricity flowing through the other wire thus the heater functions on two speeds and the switch is reversed so when it's up, the current flows trough the lowest wire and the heater works on full speed and vice versa.
There's a cable under the left corner of the dash, which controls the air that flows towards the driver and passengers and the other unit is for the windshield.
It works very well, but won't burn the car down, so I'm fine with it, but the 4-prong BR must be replaced with a 2-prong unit.
One of the POs had had this done.The ballast resistor reduces the electricity flowing through the other wire thus the heater functions on two speeds and the switch is reversed so when it's up, the current flows trough the lowest wire and the heater works on full speed and vice versa.
There's a cable under the left corner of the dash, which controls the air that flows towards the driver and passengers and the other unit is for the windshield.
It works very well, but won't burn the car down, so I'm fine with it, but the 4-prong BR must be replaced with a 2-prong unit.
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I've been too lazy with this thread (following the situation with corona, no pics, etc.), but I wanted to blow the dust off before work with the paint and little electrical gremlins will continue.
The weather has been dry but quite cold during the last week.
The weather has been dry but quite cold during the last week.
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