Rebuild Poly 318 or install LA 318 ?

65GUS

New Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2020
Messages
35
Reaction score
12
Location
OREGON
hi all. ive got a 1965 fury 3, with a worn out poly 318. it was dropping oil pressure the last 2 years , and now its been determined that the cam bearings are totally shot. my question is, do i do a total rebuild on the poly, it will be spendy ( parts wise ) or i may have access to a late 60's ( 67-69) LA 318, which could be freshened up before the re-install. the fury only gets driven about 3000 miles a year so its hard to justify a total rebuild with upgraded parts. i know the 65 fury has a 1 year only LH motor mount, what all would need to be modified to install a LA motor in place of the poly ?? im figuring at least the exhaust pipes to exhaust manifolds. are the inlets on the water pump on the same side ? maybe some body has a good or rebuilt 318 poly to fit my 1965 ?? Im out here in Oregon, so east coast motors probably $$$ to ship, anyways, any info on a motor swap or a good used poly 318 or a good local Oregon Mopar engine builder is all appreciated, thanks

IMG_5423.jpg


20180310_135715 - Copy.jpg
 
What transmission do you have?

My '67 Canadian Monaco came with a 318 poly, in 1987 I replaced it with a 318- LA. It bolted right up to the 727 transmission and no problems with motor mounts. Your '65 Fury has a different frame mounting setup but on the engine side the poly vs LA should be identical. I would recommend you find a complete LA engine because nothing can be swapped from the poly. I bought a re-man LA318 and had to find intake, exhaust, oil pan, valve covers, I think also timing chain cover. Also throttle bracket. Not sure about the distributor.
 
I put a 1970 LA 318 in my 63 Belvedere replacing the Poly. I used the 70 904 transmission.
I understand and may be a rumor that the Poly torqueflites only have one bolt hole that is different but bolts right up without using that bolt.
Great looking 65 !!!
 
The Poly A engines fathered the LA motors. Should be same bellhousing bolt pattern, even the same timing chain, IIRC. Uncle Tony has a YT video on the history. A title like "The Engine Chrysler Should have Developed", or similar. Plus a few others.

If it were mine, I'd rebuild the Poly with OEM-spec parts, not looking for "upgrade" parts. Maybe a roller timing chain, though.

If going to an LA, why not up the ante and go for a 360? But you'd need a balance-weight torque converter. But the weight kit used to be available from Mopar Perf/the old Direct Connection parts group.

CBODY67
 
hi all. ive got a 1965 fury 3, with a worn out poly 318. it was dropping oil pressure the last 2 years , and now its been determined that the cam bearings are totally shot. my question is, do i do a total rebuild on the poly, it will be spendy ( parts wise ) or i may have access to a late 60's ( 67-69) LA 318, which could be freshened up before the re-install. the fury only gets driven about 3000 miles a year so its hard to justify a total rebuild with upgraded parts. i know the 65 fury has a 1 year only LH motor mount, what all would need to be modified to install a LA motor in place of the poly ?? im figuring at least the exhaust pipes to exhaust manifolds. are the inlets on the water pump on the same side ? maybe some body has a good or rebuilt 318 poly to fit my 1965 ?? Im out here in Oregon, so east coast motors probably $$$ to ship, anyways, any info on a motor swap or a good used poly 318 or a good local Oregon Mopar engine builder is all appreciated, thanks

View attachment 685718

View attachment 685719

I would rebuild the Poly. It is truly unique and it makes really good power if you set it up correctly (upgraded cam and either one or two four barrel carburetors. Here is an article describing what is possible at the extreme. However, I would just do the cam, a four barrel carb and a set of headers:

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mopp-0110-how-to-give-a-318-poly-engine-more-power/
 
You have a nice '65. I would keep it original. You will also start with about 30 more horsepower as apposed to an LA 318.

Dave
 
Look here for A - LA interchange:


Or just look at that site in general to know what's possible for your poly. It would be great if that site had a simple section or page that just told you what parts are still relatively available today and which ones aren't, something to help you decide if rebuilding your A block is a viable option.
 
It IS a nice car, I've had the privilege of being in a few shows with him.
 
Screamin' Poly in my buddy's 64 Dodge station wagon .
Stroked and poked to 390 CID. If you didn't open the hood you would swear it's a 440.
I too believe use what you got. Only reason I went with the LA as it and the 904 were free.

IMG_2722.jpg
 
thanks to all replies.im thinking rebuild the poly also, as i know it will drop right back into place with no mods. if the motor checks out ok at the machine shop ill go that way, but if not then will probably look to a early LA 318. i know of 1 here in town that i could buy at a reasonable price, i think. remembering a used take out motor is an unknown product. ive been in touch with Gary P. in San Diego, and want to use his upgraded mild performance parts. thanks for pics there carrman. and Dave Lux, i always value your insight .BUT if anyone ( west coast) has a good used poly for a 1965, give me a holler, thanks to all. GUS
 
Dude, that car is too pretty....rebuild the motor and don't look bacK! Tell your wife sheez gonna haf to get a second job!
 
Your car is nice enough to deserve to maintain originality. (meaning, rebuild the Poly)

If going with a used engine, I'd recommend a 5.2 Magnum, convert it to carb (some parts required), and paint it as the Poly was.
5.2s are 220-230hp NET, pre-72 318s are 230hp GROSS. Roller cam, better exh manifolds, significantly better-flowing/more efficient heads, etc.
You'll get more power and MPG from a Magnum hands-down.

If you get tempted by a 5.9 Magnum, be aware there are quite a few different parts required due to it being externally-balanced, and its balance differs from the LA360.
Finding the right damper for a V-belt setup being a big one.
 
hopefully pulling the poly next week or soon, then its off to the machine shop. if it checks out all ok, she will be rebuilt !
 
so put in a stroker to get the piston up for good quench
try and find a good cam core
do your heads like converson guides for smaller stems, tulip exhaust, dura bond seats
viton seals beehive springs bring the heads into the 21st century
get Mike Jones to grind you a cam using his DODGE Motorhome profile on the intake, he will pick the exhaust (or HOWARDS has a similar profile everything else is obsolete junk)
use an new AVS design or Thermoquad
me I'd go 5.9 magnum with theEFI but there are reasons to keep your poly
lots of Poly "experts" out there bvvc
put a transgo reprogramming kit in the trans and you can convert to lock up which would allow for a looser converter
 
and you can convert to lock up which would allow for a looser converter
Yes, People often overlook that some performance and efficiency can be gained via transmission changes.
But please step thru converting a 65 cable-shift to lockup?

I spoke to a renowned TF specialist some years ago about adding LU to a BB727 and was told the castings are different.
There were BB LU trans but only 1 year and are quite rare.
Was told it would take some special machining, an externally-mounted and plumbed solenoid valve, and swapping from the reaction shaft forward.
I don't remember if that would use hte SB lockup VB or not. (but that VB isn't going to work in a 65 trans)
There might be something in the reaction support that is not compatible with a 65-older? Meaning, more parts to be swapped?
(Granted, I put him on the spot for his ideas, and his 1st response might not be the easiest method?)
At a past job I saw lots of extra plumbing done on VBs but you have to know what you're doing for sure.

But for a smallblock, every unit from '79 or so has LU.
I believe the one shifter cable can be used to control the lever-shift unit, I mocked that up on a 65 floor shifter some years ago and it seemed like it would work.
The 65 AT has a standard U-joint output, so compatible with newer transmissions.

Not trying to be argumentative, just trying to learn.

If it were me, looking for an A999 copcar unit (or building a 904 to that spec) would be the easiest way.
Later 904-based units have ~10% deeper 1-2 gearing (2.74 and 1.54 vs 2.45 and 1.45) and that would help a bit. Would turn a 2.76 into a 3.04, or a 3.23 into a 3.55 in gears 1-2, while maintaining original axle ratio (+ lockup) in 3rd.
 
Back
Top