Torque on a spindle nut

[brent]

Reading about the appropriate torque on the spindle nut for 66 Monaco. It states 90 inch pounds. Using a conversion page that comes out to 7.5 foot lbs. That seems like not much.
Thoughts?

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Spindle Nut? Would that be for the front wheel bearings?

Don't bother with a conversion chart, get yourself a inch pound torque wrench, they aren't that expensive.

 

[polara71]

They are not supposed to be slam tight but rather snug. If you over tighten the wheel won't spin. The " lock ring " and Cotter pin keep in from backing out.

 

[brent]

Spindle Nut? Would that be for the front wheel bearings?

Don't bother with a conversion chart, get yourself a inch pound torque wrench, they aren't that expensive.

Front wheel bearing is correct.

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Yea never really bothered with the torque for that, after awhile you get the 'Feel', rotate, snug it down, back it off one notch. Even if you use the torque wrench backing it off one notch maybe 'jist a little more. Like I say if'a ya do it enough times you develop a feel for it.

The only time I stuck to using a torque wrench was on the swingarm tapered bearings of a pre 80's Harley Davidson where a pre-load was required. IIRC 40 ft. lbs and a check with a spring scale attached at the axle point of the swingarm via the service manual.

Steering head bearing was different story, big debate in the pits over it. Taper roller vs. ball bearing. I did my taper bearing headstock by feel, make sure your races are seated completely, lube it up, install just the triple trees & bare forks, snug it down, wiggle it side to side, back off and do it again till it's smooth with just a slight amount of pre-load. Don't shortcut it, you can not get a accurate feel for it with the front wheel & handle bars on it.
I'm sure modern day 'Techs' will beat that horse till it's dead. LOL

 

[Big_John]

If you are thinking about using a large torque wrench to do this, don't bother. At 7.5 ft/lbs, your wrench is not going to be accurate. Most torque wrenches are not accurate in the low 10% of the range.

Either buy an inch/pound torque wrench or follow the advice above about how to tighten. That's the way I do it.

 

[live4theking]

Follow the advice above, forget the torque wrench.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Just make sure the bearings have a preload on them. That's how they work and will be happy.

 

[CBODY67]

Front wheel bearing adjustment, on cars, is one of the things you learn by watching and then DOING. When you're done, spin the wheel and see how fast it slows down and stops turning. Put one hand at the top of the tire, other at the bottom, check for lateral movement (use the 9 and 3 o'clock positions and you're checking the steering linkage). A thousanth's inch loose is acceptable, tighter will wear the bearing and make it run hotter. THEN put the cotter key and lock in a place they both work. Done.

Another place where "feel" is important! This is not a really "torque-critical" location. As mentioned, there's a reason the spec is in "inch-pounds" and needs a BEAM torque wrench in those values.

CBODY67

 

[Gerald Morris]

Get a decent inch-lb wrench, AND learn the right feel from that. Also, get Timken bearings. They're still made in the U.S.A., Ky I believe...

 

[garyh]

Where can you get a 1/2" drive ,
Inch style torque wrench ? Reasonable price ?

 

[Polara_500]

1/2 drive inch pound??? Come on, man..............

 

[Big_John]

Where can you get a 1/2" drive ,
Inch style torque wrench ? Reasonable price ?

You won't.

Again read my post... A torque wrench is usually not accurate at the lower 10% of the reading. A 1/2 torque wrench will probably be 150 ft/lbs. 10% is 15 ft/lbs, so from 0-15 ft/lbs, you can't depend on the torque reading to be accurate.

I was partners in an A2LA accredited calibration lab. We calibrated literally thousands of torque wrenches (along with a lot of other stuff).

If you want to buy an inch/pound torque wrench, buy something like this with 0-150 in/lb range. Use a 1/4 to 1/2" drive adapter or 1/4 to 3/8 and 3/8 to 1/2" together.

But really.... You are overthinking this.

With the wheel spinning, tighten the spindle nut until you just feel it tighten. Put the retainer over the top of the nut and back it off a half notch. Put a cotter pin through it and call it a day.

 

[twostick]

I've always torqued them to 50 FT/LBS to set the bearing and take up the endplay and then back it off 1 flat plus whatever it takes to get the cotter pin in. Bearing endplay and rotational feel is always spot on and it takes no time.

Learned that trick from my shop teacher several decades ago. Works on any tapered bearing setup I've ever had from Darts to 46,000 Eaton drive axles.

Kevin

 

[commando1]

Never used a torque wrench in my life on the spindle nut.
I crank down on the nut until it's fully seated and then back off ½ a turn.