65 727 cable transmission information

[JunkRunner65NP]

Hey there guys! I have a manual on order for my 1965 Newport but I’m the meantime for my “revival” I was looking into the transmission. From what I’ve heard in my year they used a cable shifted system akin to the older push button cars.

Now for me what I need know a bit more about is a bit more practical. I’m trying to get the engine (383) unstuck and have eliminated the rear end and driveshaft as problems so I’m onto the transmission.

When I shift inside the car I hear the normal clicking and feel the detents but when I’m under the vehicle and someone shifts I don’t hear anything. Should I be able to hear the transmission going through the gears underneath? Pretty much any information would be appreciated about this transmission.

Of course it’s my luck I happened onto a relative oddity but hopefully with your help I can wrap my head around it lol.

Thanks a bunch

 

[Big_John]

When I shift inside the car I hear the normal clicking and feel the detents but when I’m under the vehicle and someone shifts I don’t hear anything. Should I be able to hear the transmission going through the gears underneath? Pretty much any information would be appreciated about this transmission.

It doesn't go "through the gears". Instead it opens and closes various valves in the valve body and depends on hydraulic pressure (engine running) to apply the bands etc.

So, no, you won't hear anything.

The only thing that moves without the engine running is the parking sprag and that uses the second cable.

You can get a digital version of the manual right now by downloading from Service Manuals – MyMopar

 

[JunkRunner65NP]

It doesn't go "through the gears". Instead it opens and closes various valves in the valve body and depends on hydraulic pressure (engine running) to apply the bands etc.

So, no, you won't hear anything.

The only thing that moves without the engine running is the parking sprag and that uses the second cable.

You can get a digital version of the manual right now by downloading from Service Manuals – MyMopar

It doesn't go "through the gears". Instead it opens and closes various valves in the valve body and depends on hydraulic pressure (engine running) to apply the bands etc.

So, no, you won't hear anything.

The only thing that moves without the engine running is the parking sprag and that uses the second cable.

You can get a digital version of the manual right now by downloading from Service Manuals – MyMopar

Ah shows what I know. Thanks a bunch! So can I safely assume that (granted it hasn’t grenaded) that what gear I see on the dash is correct?

 

[413]

If nobody changed the adjustment of the cable it should be accurate on the dash.

If the engine won't turn its rare to have that be an automatic trans problem.

 

[JunkRunner65NP]

If nobody changed the adjustment of the cable it should be accurate on the dash.

If the engine won't turn its rare to have that be an automatic trans problem.

Ah thanks a bunch. I’m letting the engine cylinders soak for a week in atf/acetone and try again. Might remove the starter before trying as well.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Ah thanks a bunch. I’m letting the engine cylinders soak for a week in atf/acetone and try again. Might remove the starter before trying as well.

What is the storage history of the car?
If it was outside, you may want to stick a hose on a turkey baster and put it down the spark plug holes to see if you can suck any water out of the cylinders.
Also, borescope that you can use with your phone camera would let you see inside each cylinder.
Link to Amazon model
https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Ad...19b-a643-06400031baa7&pd_rd_i=B0BF64PP4F&th=1

Extreme Example:
I once had a stuck engine, a 1967 440. Despite claims of proper storage, the cylinders were full of water.
I pulled the heads. I used turkey baster, hose, and rags to get out the water. I applied 30W oil to the cylinders and left puddles of oil on top of each piston over night.
In the morning I used a breaker bar & 1.25" socket to rock the crank clockwise/counterclockwise at the harmonic balancer bolt and slowly break it loose, all the while adding more oil to newly exposed areas.
Bottom Line: 4 of the cylinder walls were pitted with rust. Engine unusable without rebuild.

 

[JunkRunner65NP]

What is the storage history of the car?
If it was outside, you may want to stick a hose on a turkey baster and put it down the spark plug holes to see if you can suck any water out of the cylinders.
Also, borescope that you can use with your phone camera would let you see inside each cylinder.
Link to Amazon model
https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Ad...19b-a643-06400031baa7&pd_rd_i=B0BF64PP4F&th=1

Extreme Example:
I once had a stuck engine, a 1967 440. Despite claims of proper storage, the cylinders were full of water.
I pulled the heads. I used turkey baster, hose, and rags to get out the water. I applied 30W oil to the cylinders and left puddles of oil on top of each piston over night.
In the morning I used a breaker bar & 1.25" socket to rock the crank clockwise/counterclockwise at the harmonic balancer bolt and slowly break it loose, all the while adding more oil to newly exposed areas.
Bottom Line: 4 of the cylinder walls were pitted with rust. Engine unusable without rebuild.

Thankfully no fluid in the cylinders it’s actually pretty solid. Worst storage possible I’m afraid. It was parked outside for 50 years. Since it’s a 383 it’s easy to see if water got in the intake and after removing the intake it was bone dry. Engine oil had no fuel or water in it so I have no doubt that the air cleaner kept the car safe from most of the danger.

I think it’s probably a stuck ring since if it was valves it would give one way or another at least a little (bending the valves).

I’ll get a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone in the cylinders to soak for a week or two. Can’t hurt anything thankfully so no permanent damage (apart from shearing the key on the crank) can be done lol.