installing a vent tube

stain

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I am getting a bit of extended crank on hot soak on my 68 NY'er. I have wrapped the fuel line in insulation and it helps a bit but i was going to try to install the WIX 33040 vapor return filter.
My question to those that have done this, how did you run the vapor return line? Is there an existing vapor or return line that can be used?
I dont really want to take my sending unit out to modify it if at all possible.
 
Yep, I suspect you'll need a "fuel return line" added to your vehicle.

DO make sure the ignition system is fully correct, as to specs and such. Especially when it comes to making sparks at the spark plugs.

In general, what you are experiencing in your climate can be completely normal, from my experiences back in the 1960s and such In TX. When starting, use about 1/3 throttle when starting the warm/hot engine.

Make sure there are NO flow restrictions in the fuel line between the tank and carb. Which can mean new rubber hose sections. Non-ethanol fuels MIGHT help, but probably not by much, I suspect.

Are the two "insulator" items still under the intake manifold? Might remove them (which would require intake manifold removal to get to them. That way, air can move UNDER the intake manifold rather than be blocked, for heat dissipation.

In one respect, perhaps an electric pusher fan might be employed, to run after the engine stops for a certain period of time, might be an option?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
I thought about a spacer or a shield. I used this on my 74 Blaze with good results.
1750184858251.png

Would my choke still be able to be used with a spacer though?
 
I used a 1/4" phenolic carb. spacer on my '62 Savoy (440/ 4bbl.) to help prevent vapor lock/heat transfer. It doesn't need to be very thick to be effective. Plus, you need to consider the final height of the carb. and air cleaner for hood clearance. Also, if you have a four-barrel carb. and buy a four-hole spacer, make sure the spacer doesn't interfere with the throttle blades.

The spacer would be worth a try before installing a vapor return filter, especially if your vehicle wasn't equipped with one originally.
 
I used a 1/4" phenolic carb. spacer on my '62 Savoy (440/ 4bbl.) to help prevent vapor lock/heat transfer. It doesn't need to be very thick to be effective. Plus, you need to consider the final height of the carb. and air cleaner for hood clearance. Also, if you have a four-barrel carb. and buy a four-hole spacer, make sure the spacer doesn't interfere with the throttle blades.

The spacer would be worth a try before installing a vapor return filter, especially if your vehicle wasn't equipped with one originally.
did you have enough adjustment to use your stock choke pull off?
 
you wouldn't have a part number would you?
 
I thought about a spacer or a shield. I used this on my 74 Blaze with good results.
View attachment 724026
Would my choke still be able to be used with a spacer though?
Do NOT use this type of spacer, period!!! I managed to crack the baseplate on an AVS, being very careful about cross-torqueing the hold down nuts, trying NOT to crack it, but it happened. So, the thick spacer with the plastic inserts for the studs is far superior to this 1970s attempt at "heat insulation".

CBODY67
 
My carb. was an Edelbrock AVS with a manual choke. I bought the spacer from Summit years ago; check their website, www.summitracing.com. I've read/heard of making one out of wood.
 
Do NOT use this type of spacer, period!!! I managed to crack the baseplate on an AVS, being very careful about cross-torqueing the hold down nuts, trying NOT to crack it, but it happened. So, the thick spacer with the plastic inserts for the studs is far superior to this 1970s attempt at "heat insulation".

CBODY67
Hmmm. I had no problems on my Blazer with the Edelbrock 600. Been on there for a couple of thousand miles.

I stopped by Oriley's on the way home and they had this.
1750199575692.png


I installed it and reset a few adjustments. It is raining here, again, so I will have to wait for a nice day to give results.
 
Hmmm. I had no problems on my Blazer with the Edelbrock 600. Been on there for a couple of thousand miles.

I stopped by Oriley's on the way home and they had this.
View attachment 724048

I installed it and reset a few adjustments. It is raining here, again, so I will have to wait for a nice day to give results.
As EACH of the intermediate gaskets in the aluminum/gasket "stack" are compressable, uneven torque can happen. The plastic bushings in the Edelbrock 12410 gasket do not allow that. Works just as well, if not better.

Phenolic is supposed to be very good, but wood is supposed to be the best as to blocking heat transfer. Many drag racers use wood carb spacers because of that.

CBODY67
 
I think this gasket helped but does make a small whistling at part throttle low speed.
I did also make a bunch of timing changes that REALLY helped.
 
OK, Totally Old School but, one of my first cars was '56 Fairlane with a .030 over 292. Had serious vapor lock issues. Searched for solutions to no avail. Pulled into an old gas station from the 1940's and happened to mention to the original owner of the station the issues I was having. He said wait right here. I could see him go out back or the station to his wife's clothes line. He comes back with a hand full of wooden clothes pins. Puts 4 or 5 on the fuel line between the pump and carb. Says to drop by next time I need gas and let him know if they helped. Much to my surprise my issues disappeared. Don't know if they acted as heat sinks or cooling vanes but it worked.
 
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