No headlights

[70furyiii]

I just bought a 70 Fury as a project! When I bought it, the headlights, tail lights, and brake lights did not work. I now have the tail lights and brake lights working. I cannot seem to get the headlights working. I do not have any power going to the lights. I purchased another headlight switch, which did not fix the issue. I have looked at wiring diagrams and cannot seem to find where I am loosing power. The high beam plastic connector was burnt up, so i replaced the connections. Wondering if the high beam switch has something to do with it? But I also do not have power at that switch.

Also, having issue with turn signals. When I turn the right turn signal on, it works great now. When I turn left turn signal on....the both left and right flash. I replaced the switch(ebay) because they didnt work when when I got it. Now I have lights in the rear, just not properly functioning.

Thank you in advance!!

 

[MONC440]

Welcome to the board from a fellow 70 Fury guy. Do you have power to the headlight switch? I assume you do because if your running (tail) lights are working that goes thru the same switch. First place to check is the floor high low switch many times they go bad from corrosion. Headlight power leaves the headlight switch and first goes to the high low switch then thru the bulk head connector then to the lights. The H/L switch has a 3 prong connector one will be power from the switch one will be high beam and the other low beam. First thing to do is check to make sure the connector is not corroded up, if it is clean it and check if you have lights. If not leave the connector plugged in, turn the headlights on and back probe the connector. You should have power at two of the three pins, if you have no power at all the problem is between the headlight switch and the H/L switch. If you have power at only one point the H/L switch is bad.

 

[MONC440]

BTW I converted my headlights to run off relays under the hood. The signal from my H/L switch controls the relays and all the high amp power just runs thru the relays. The problem with Chrysler wiring is they run power from the battery, thru the bulk head connector, then all of it goes thru the amp gauge, then to the headlights and everything else. This is a great deal of amp thru that circuit and it works when everything is new but after a few years when connectors start to get a little corroded the resistance goes up in the circuit. Usually the fusible link pops first, then someone bypasses that, then the wires start to melt or the amp gauge melts. They did this type of wiring for many years. By controlling the headlights with relays all the load is thru the relay (under the hood) and not under the dash.

The turn signal issue is most likely a bad ground.

 

[MONC440]

I just reread your post and I think you said you do not have power to the high low switch on the floor? If that is the case go back to your headlight switch and verify you have power to the switch it will be the black wire with a white tracer on it. If no power there check to see if you have power to the amp gauge on both sides. If you have power on both sides of the amp gauge I assume you have a bad wire from the amp gauge to the headlight switch.

 

[Big_John]

I just bought a 70 Fury as a project! When I bought it, the headlights, tail lights, and brake lights did not work. I now have the tail lights and brake lights working. I cannot seem to get the headlights working. I do not have any power going to the lights. I purchased another headlight switch, which did not fix the issue. I have looked at wiring diagrams and cannot seem to find where I am loosing power. The high beam plastic connector was burnt up, so i replaced the connections. Wondering if the high beam switch has something to do with it? But I also do not have power at that switch.

If you don't have power to the high beam switch, then the switch isn't the root cause of your problem.

I was going to type the same thing @MONC440 just did.

You'll be better off not throwing parts at the problem. New stuff isn't necessarily good so test before swapping parts.

Also, having issue with turn signals. When I turn the right turn signal on, it works great now. When I turn left turn signal on....the both left and right flash. I replaced the switch(ebay) because they didnt work when when I got it. Now I have lights in the rear, just not properly functioning.

Sounds like a classic ground problem. Test by attaching a wire to a good known ground and the other end to the left tail light housing.

It will probably work, so just clean up the mounting surfaces on the tail light housing.

 

[70furyiii]

If you don't have power to the high beam switch, then the switch isn't the root cause of your problem.

I was going to type the same thing @MONC440 just did.

You'll be better off not throwing parts at the problem. New stuff isn't necessarily good so test before swapping parts.


Sounds like a classic ground problem. Test by attaching a wire to a good known ground and the other end to the left tail light housing.

It will probably work, so just clean up the mounting surfaces on the tail light housing.

Thank you! I will give that a try! I have tried getting access to the tail light housings but can’t get em loose. Do I need to take the bumper off to gain full access?

 

[70furyiii]

Welcome to the board from a fellow 70 Fury guy. Do you have power to the headlight switch? I assume you do because if your running (tail) lights are working that goes thru the same switch. First place to check is the floor high low switch many times they go bad from corrosion. Headlight power leaves the headlight switch and first goes to the high low switch then thru the bulk head connector then to the lights. The H/L switch has a 3 prong connector one will be power from the switch one will be high beam and the other low beam. First thing to do is check to make sure the connector is not corroded up, if it is clean it and check if you have lights. If not leave the connector plugged in, turn the headlights on and back probe the connector. You should have power at two of the three pins, if you have no power at all the problem is between the headlight switch and the H/L switch. If you have power at only one point the H/L switch is bad.

I do have power coming into the switch. But the top two terminals of the switch are not getting power out. Somewhat confusing as the brake lights still work with the switch on. I have tried 2 different switches and they both do the same.

 

[CBODY67]

The one time I had "no headlights", suddenly discovered after the run went down. I called a wrecker and got the car towed home, then drove to work the next day in the daylight.

Before I called the wrecker, I repeatedly tried the headlight switch to no avail. What I did NOT do, after I was thinking about it was to cycle the high-beam switch on the floor! I would have probably found I still had High-Beams, but not low-beams . . . which had happened several years prior, that I had forgotten about. In that earlier time, I just got a Phillips head screwdriver and adjusted the high beams downward to where the low-beams would have shined. But that first time, everything worked normally later.

What fixed it after that expensive wrecker ride? A new high-beam switch! $10.00 and done, for the part.

Remember that plastic terminal insulators do NOT melt from heat on the floorboard in that area. ONLY from heat generated by what they are hooked to. In this case, the beam switch. I suspect that will fix your headlight situation, from my experiences.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[MONC440]

I do have power coming into the switch. But the top two terminals of the switch are not getting power out. Somewhat confusing as the brake lights still work with the switch on. I have tried 2 different switches and they both do the same.

Are you talking about the floor switch or the headlight switch in the dash? The floor switch has nothing to do with the tail lights. If you are talking about the floor high/low beam switch and you have tried two first ohm out the switch and make sure it is working properly. If you have power to the floor switch and no power out it is the switch.

 

[Rubatoguy]

I've had great success using Detoxit to clean corroded terminals. Amazon.com : detoxit

 

[70furyiii]

If you don't have power to the high beam switch, then the switch isn't the root cause of your problem.

I was going to type the same thing @MONC440 just did.

You'll be better off not throwing parts at the problem. New stuff isn't necessarily good so test before swapping parts.


Sounds like a classic ground problem. Test by attaching a wire to a good known ground and the other end to the left tail light housing.

It will probably work, so just clean up the mounting surfaces on the tail light housing.

Thank you, I will give it a shot!!

If you don't have power to the high beam switch, then the switch isn't the root cause of your problem.

I was going to type the same thing @MONC440 just did.

You'll be better off not throwing parts at the problem. New stuff isn't necessarily good so test before swapping parts.


Sounds like a classic ground problem. Test by attaching a wire to a good known ground and the other end to the left tail light housing.

It will probably work, so just clean up the mounting surfaces on the tail light housing.

Are you talking about the floor switch or the headlight switch in the dash? The floor switch has nothing to do with the tail lights. If you are talking about the floor high/low beam switch and you have tried two first ohm out the switch and make sure it is working properly. If you have power to the floor switch and no power out it is the switch.

Thank you, I do not have power coming out of the top terminals of the actual headlight switch. No power coming into the floor switch. I have tried two different switches. Could a bad ground cause there to not be power coming out of the top half of the switch?

 

[MONC440]

No a ground will not have anything to do with power supply. Do you have power at the black wire with a white tracer coming into the headlight switch?

 

[70furyiii]

No a ground will not have anything to do with power supply. Do you have power at the black wire with a white tracer coming into the headlight switch?

I do not have power coming in with the black wire with white tracer. Only from the red wires.

 

[MONC440]

I do not have power coming in with the black wire with white tracer. Only from the red wires.

View attachment 727027

OK now we are getting someplace, that is your supply wire for the headlights. That wire comes from the amp gauge. So you need to check for power on both sides of the amp gauge. The power supply the to amp gauge is read, the power out is black. If you have power at red and not black the gauge is fried. If you have power on both sides the wire from the gauge to the headlight switch is fried. If you do not have any power to the amp gauge the red wire is bad someplace, it comes from the bulk head connector to the amp gauge.

 

[70furyiii]

I do not have power at the amp gauge. Just want to make sure when you say amp gauge you mean the battery gauge on dash? I attached photos to be sure. Also the black and white wire from the headlight switch goes into a junction with 2 black and 2 red wires. Does that seem right? Also attached a picture.

there is also a blank in the headlight switch connector. That spot on the switch is right below the black/white wire and has B labeled on the switch itself. Look like on the diagram it should be blank. So just wanted to make sure

Thank you so much for all of your help with this!!

 

[3175375]

The wiring seems correct. The splice is supposed to be there. However, it needs to be insulated!

It appears that the fusible link that brings power to that splice is bad, the bulkhead connector feedthru is bad or a broken wire in the engine compartment. You’re getting there! Keep going and let us know what you discover.

 

[Big_John]

I do not have power at the amp gauge

A lot of other things will also be dead. What works (radio etc.) and what doesn't?

Also the black and white wire from the headlight switch goes into a junction with 2 black and 2 red wires. Does that seem right

Yes, although that should be insolated.

This picture bothers me a bit. Evidence of poor wiring in the twist and butt connector. You may have to pull that all out.

 

[MONC440]

Yes all of that looks correct and yes the amp gauge is the battery gauge. If you do not have power at the red wire on the amp gauge go under hood and find the big red wire coming out of the bulk head connector. Up on the fender well you should find a connector and a fusible link. Check for power here and inspect the fusible link if it looks burnt it needs to be replaced. Make sure you wrap some tape around those exposed wires under the dash before replacing the fusible link because it that splice touches ground it will blow the fusible link again.

 

[MONC440]

A lot of other things will also be dead.

Unless someone over the past 50 years patched into a different power for those things. My fury had a hot wire for the radio, horn and blower motor all because someone didn't know what they were doing.

 

[Big_John]

Unless someone over the past 50 years patched into a different power for those things. My fury had a hot wire for the radio, horn and blower motor all because someone didn't know what they were doing.

That is very possible. Most likely something like that has happened here.