1963 Chrysler New Yorker 4 door hardtop

[aaron72]

My rambling as rewritten by MS Copilot AI!
Fantastic discovery—looks to be in excellent condition! Where in the vehicle did you uncover it?
You may already have everything decoded, but just in case, here's a breakdown of what I see on the Track Sheet:

• Track Number: "C" (unknown) 0468: Last four of the VIN—estimated full VIN: 8333 240468 Please confirm or correct.
• DATE, NUMBER, BDY, PNT, TRM: Per the decoded report
• 342-A: TorqueFlite Automatic Transmission
• 351: Standard power steering-Other 35X accessories/options not on this car-such as Tailgate Window, Auto Pilot, Vent Windows,
• 352-B: Power brakes. No power windows?
• None of these: 37X-P/Antenna; 39X-Rear window defogger, 40X-console, 41X-seat belts (Please confirm presence or not front seat belts), 41X-Arm rest
• 362-H: Golden Tone AM radio
• 413, 434, 421, 428: Likely standard features or part of a NY equipment or accessory group
• 416-P?: Padded lower dash or-
• 426-P?: Trunk light - part of the light package—includes 420, 424, 425, 426
  • This new info has me rethinking P6
• 429: Windshield washer & variable-speed wipers
• 431-Q: Tinted Solex glass—All
• 443-R: Front and rear bumper guards
• 452: Wheel covers-Standard
• 471-S: Sill moldings
• 482-T: Adjustable outside LH rearview mirror
• 492-V: Inside tilt-type glareproof mirror
• 531: Standard differential ratio—2.93
• Tires (545 & 550): Last digits "50" = 8.50 x 14 black sidewalls
• 575: Standard battery—MB-27-70
• 611: Undercoating and underhood pad
• 65X NCS: New Car Factory Service or customer ordered/sold car expedite. This car ordered out for dealer stock.

It’s fascinating to see how many items were standard on New Yorker models but required explicit ordering on lower trims. This find sheds real light—and it’s hugely helpful to my research. Much appreciated!
Torky (Flite)

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You have the VIN on the car correct.

The car has power brakes but manual windows. The car seems oddly configured as it has some options, but manual windows and no A/C.

The car had seat belts for the front seat, but they were blue (not matching the brown interior) and they were bolted into the car. I believe the car has threaded mounts in the floor panels for the front seat belts, but they weren't used and I'll explore the possibility of factory mount points when I get to carpet and replacing the blue belts with matching belts that I have in the back seat.

All of your other options check out from what I see is on the car.

 

[Unix]

Very nice New Yorker. Great that u got it back on the road!

 

[aaron72]

Have the new Espo leaf springs installed, along with a new set of rear shocks. Went with the heavy duty, stock height springs. It bumped the rear of the car up slightly as the car had shocks with coil springs on it, which I'm assuming were installed to help the old tired leaf springs out.

Photo of before and after for ride height.

And then some undershots showing the new equipment.

Suspension is now completely rebuilt from front to back, so I'll have to determine where I focus my attention next.

 

[Just Carbs]

Beautiful car you have there. Lucky getting such nice car as a start.
The 63 and 64 full size, great car, great size.

I drive a good condition 64 New Yorker. Thats good condition, not very good condition. That means it's a healthy car with original faded paint, good complete trim, bumpers, door panels, glass, dash, headliner and no rust. No plans to paint it.

Had no shoulder belts or head restraint. Took some liberties and installed tan color matching front and back leather seats from 2001 Buick Lesabre. Because the fronts have all the belts and head restraint as part of the seat, and comfortable electrics.

Yes, did the disc brakes and master also.

The Buick seats, not for everyone. But no longer scared to drive the car.

Might tear into the good original seats and install head restraint and add shoulder belts to the B pillars, probably not.

 

[GOLDMYN]

More suspension/brake photos

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Looks nice and complete. HOW did you find a shop that knew what they were doing and what was the ball park $$$ ?

 

[aaron72]

Beautiful car you have there. Lucky getting such nice car as a start.
The 63 and 64 full size, great car, great size.

I drive a good condition 64 New Yorker. Thats good condition, not very good condition. That means it's a healthy car with original faded paint, good complete trim, bumpers, door panels, glass, dash, headliner and no rust. No plans to paint it.

Had no shoulder belts or head restraint. Took some liberties and installed tan color matching front and back leather seats from 2001 Buick Lesabre. Because the fronts have all the belts and head restraint as part of the seat, and comfortable electrics.

Yes, did the disc brakes and master also.

The Buick seats, not for everyone. But no longer scared to drive the car.

Might tear into the good original seats and install head restraint and add shoulder belts to the B pillars, probably not.

Your car sounds similar to mine, a good base that just needed a little help to get it some modern safety amenities. This one has some bumps and bruises as well, but no plans to paint it, just make it into a nice driver.

 

[aaron72]

Looks nice and complete. HOW did you find a shop that knew what they were doing and what was the ball park $$$ ?

There's a guy in my city, late 30's, early 40's, that only works on 1972 and earlier vehicles. For things like the suspension and brakes, where a lift is very beneficial, or items that are a bit out of my mechanical realm or comfort level, I go to him.

The labor for leaf springs, shocks, busted lug stud replacement and a few other minor items while it was up in the air was $800.

 

[Just Carbs]

Your car sounds similar to mine, a good base that just needed a little help to get it some modern safety amenities. This one has some bumps and bruises as well, but no plans to paint it, just make it into a nice driver.

I would call yours excellent condition.
Mine, barely good. But it gets miles put on it.

 

[aaron72]

But it gets miles put on it.

That's the main goal. If they are enjoyable miles, that's tough to beat.

 

[GOLDMYN]

I got a quote to rebuild my front-end (68 Polara), I have the parts $3K. I was going to have him do it until he said the rear trailing arms would need replacing, that's when i decided, Naw

 

[aaron72]

I got a quote to rebuild my front-end (68 Polara), I have the parts $3K. I was going to have him do it until he said the rear trailing arms would need replacing, that's when i decided, Naw

Yeah, definitely have to find the right people.

 

[aaron72]

Since I picked up the car last year, it's had a pretty leaky transmission pan. Decided to finally to drop the pan to put a new gasket in. This was the last year of the external transmission filter that is inline of the cooler lines that run to the radiator. The external filters are almost impossible to find, or when you can, they are prohibitively expensive, so decided to go with the two port filter in the pan that the 64's moved over to. This requires a deeper pan, otherwise the filter can starve for fluid.

You can see the metal strainer that is mounted to the bottom of the transmission.

Here you can see the difference in pan depth.

Here's the new pan installed

And this was the inline filter I removed.

 

[CBODY67]

Thanks for the documentation of the differences!

Now that you have a used inline filter . . . you can now separate it to see what's in it! Whether a brass wire mesh screen or a pleated paper (or similar) filter element (as an engine oil filter). This might help others in the future to possibly use a common inline fuel filter for EFI to replace these Chrysler inline trans filters.

Depending upon how the plumbing and mounting might work, there has been an Oberg mesh engine oil filter available for about 40 years now. Mainly used by circle track racers. The mesh is easily washable in a parts washer and designed to be reuseable. Helpful after engine rebuilds to see how "clean" the build was. In some cases I knew of, "red shop towel lint" was caught by the filter mesh.

The main issues with a different-application transmission filter would be "flow rate vs filtering", I suspect.

The displayed oil pay for the internal filter looks to be deeper than what I remember the OEM pan for the internal filter being? It looks to be more aftermarket to me . . . perhaps I am wrong?

The reason I saw this is that GM had a factory "deep pan" for some HD pickup truck THM400 applications. It consisted of a factory steel oil pan WITH an extension between the valve body and the (lowered position) filter so the filter remained at the "bottom of the pan" (in the same relationship as the normal pan filter location). Otherwise, a quick corner or stop could let the pump ingest air rather than ATF for a second or two. Or at least make such a situation easier to happen.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[aaron72]

Thanks for the documentation of the differences!

Now that you have a used inline filter . . . you can now separate it to see what's in it! Whether a brass wire mesh screen or a pleated paper (or similar) filter element (as an engine oil filter). This might help others in the future to possibly use a common inline fuel filter for EFI to replace these Chrysler inline trans filters.

Depending upon how the plumbing and mounting might work, there has been an Oberg mesh engine oil filter available for about 40 years now. Mainly used by circle track racers. The mesh is easily washable in a parts washer and designed to be reuseable. Helpful after engine rebuilds to see how "clean" the build was. In some cases I knew of, "red shop towel lint" was caught by the filter mesh.

The main issues with a different-application transmission filter would be "flow rate vs filtering", I suspect.

The displayed oil pay for the internal filter looks to be deeper than what I remember the OEM pan for the internal filter being? It looks to be more aftermarket to me . . . perhaps I am wrong?

The reason I saw this is that GM had a factory "deep pan" for some HD pickup truck THM400 applications. It consisted of a factory steel oil pan WITH an extension between the valve body and the (lowered position) filter so the filter remained at the "bottom of the pan" (in the same relationship as the normal pan filter location). Otherwise, a quick corner or stop could let the pump ingest air rather than ATF for a second or two. Or at least make such a situation easier to happen.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

This is definitely a deeper pan than needed, I believe it is for a Dakota.

The pans for the 64 New Yorkers had an imprint in the pan where the filter would be to give it a little more clearance, but I wasn't able to source one.

They also make spacer kits to drop the filter further down in the pan, but I didn't go that route as I think they are only for the single port filters.

There shouldn't be any issues with this deeper pan, as the fluid level will still be at the same level as before, which never had any pickup issues where the metal screen was.

The extra fluid capacity really serves no purpose aside from maybe helping with some slight cooling due to there being more of it.