400 with a 440 transmission mix-n-match issue?

[Brad Nelson]

Found something else that I've never seen before;
The right rear drum was out of round.
I wish I had video'd it.
Clear visible and probably 1/4 or more warped. I ran the car with the drum off and the axle was spinning true, so I ordered up a new drum.

I bought this car from my an auction and have nobody to go back and ask "WTF?" to (they died years ago).

 

[Gerald Morris]

Found something else that I've never seen before;
The right rear drum was out of round.
I wish I had video'd it.
Clear visible and probably 1/4 or more warped. I ran the car with the drum off and the axle was spinning true, so I ordered up a new drum.

I bought this car from my an auction and have nobody to go back and ask "WTF?" to (they died years ago).

Good move! When you get the new drum, have it checked before slapping it on. Drums and rotors can be warped in transit, as well as sloppo QC at the factory. Getting a drum shaved into true circularity before installation is SOP w me now. Our first Family Newport came from a dead man too. He rebuilt the engine well enough so that we still run it, over 9 yrs later, but the body was a rust bubble, despite having long abode in AZ.His kid had ruined the rear drums by putting obscenely heavy show room 20" wire wheels on it. Long story....

 

[Brad Nelson]

Follow up for those playing along at home;

Not a complete fix, but found an issue anyway. The rear drums weren't even for this car. Someone well before me installed a set of 11"x2" drums, shoes, backing plates, etc...
And they must have had a difficult time getting those drums replaced for they were turned way beyond spec. To the point one drum was starting to crack.

So, as much as I hate to use my Newport as a parts car because I intend on restoring it, I pulled the 11"x2.75" brakes off, replaced all the wear items (slave cyl., shoes, springs...), had the drums turned, and put them on the Fury.

Still have a vibration around 70mph, but it's less than it was.
Going to have the drive shaft checked/probably replaced.
No obvious indications that either of the axle shafts are bent, but I'm going to have a gear/rear shop give them a once over too.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Follow up for those playing along at home;

Not a complete fix, but found an issue anyway. The rear drums weren't even for this car. Someone well before me installed a set of 11"x2" drums, shoes, backing plates, etc...
And they must have had a difficult time getting those drums replaced for they were turned way beyond spec. To the point one drum was starting to crack.

So, as much as I hate to use my Newport as a parts car because I intend on restoring it, I pulled the 11"x2.75" brakes off, replaced all the wear items (slave cyl., shoes, springs...), had the drums turned, and put them on the Fury.

Still have a vibration around 70mph, but it's less than it was.
Going to have the drive shaft checked/probably replaced.
No obvious indications that either of the axle shafts are bent, but I'm going to have a gear/rear shop give them a once over too.

You might want to attend to the axle bearings in that assembly. Before getting into that, check the adjustment on your passenger side for the amount of lateral play in the axle shafts. A vibration at a particular speed indicates some harmonic which, while it might arise from some small imbalance in the driveshaft, might also come from an axle shaft bearing in less than sterling condition.

I commend your preventative efforts, utilizing the Newport parts. Now, were the rear drums from your Newport 2.5" x 11" or, as you typed, are you actually using 2.75" drums and shoes in your rear? I ask because while I've seen references to 3" shoes for rear brakes, for service vehicles, I've never seen Chrysler nomenclature for 2.75" rear brake shoes....

 

[Brad Nelson]

You might want to attend to the axle bearings in that assembly. Before getting into that, check the adjustment on your passenger side for the amount of lateral play in the axle shafts. A vibration at a particular speed indicates some harmonic which, while it might arise from some small imbalance in the driveshaft, might also come from an axle shaft bearing in less than sterling condition.

I commend your preventative efforts, utilizing the Newport parts. Now, were the rear drums from your Newport 2.5" x 11" or, as you typed, are you actually using 2.75" drums and shoes in your rear? I ask because while I've seen references to 3" shoes for rear brakes, for service vehicles, I've never seen Chrysler nomenclature for 2.75" rear brake shoes....

The axle bearings are all new. Had new ones installed along with eliminating the right hand thread lugs back when I put the 2.94 rear in.
I had this done with the axles out of the car at a reputable shop, but didn't have the axles checked for any subtle bending.

Looking in several resources states that all the '66 C-bodies with power assist drum brakes had 2.75" rear drums and 3" fronts. Since my Newpy is also a '66, like my Fury, it was a direct swap.
When I first figured out that the original drums on my Fury were not turnable is when I started doing measuring. Even went as far as buying what was listed for this car's drums, but they wouldn't fit. Too wide. When I mounted them up the axle flange was not mating to the drum, but the groove on the back of the drum was meeting the lip of the backing plate. Then I compaired the new drums to the ones on my Newpy and they matched.
After a lot of measuring I determined what was on the Fury when I got it was for some other Mopar drum brake system.
I even compared them to the 11x2.5 drums on the rear of my '69 Barracuda and those were different.
As of right now the car stops really well with what I've done; Scarebird front disc set up with a Wilwood power master cyl. and the rear drums from my Newpy. I just need to find this vibration because I want to daily the car.

 

[Gerald Morris]

The axle bearings are all new. Had new ones installed along with eliminating the right hand thread lugs back when I put the 2.94 rear in.
I had this done with the axles out of the car at a reputable shop, but didn't have the axles checked for any subtle bending.

Looking in several resources states that all the '66 C-bodies with power assist drum brakes had 2.75" rear drums and 3" fronts. Since my Newpy is also a '66, like my Fury, it was a direct swap.
When I first figured out that the original drums on my Fury were not turnable is when I started doing measuring. Even went as far as buying what was listed for this car's drums, but they wouldn't fit. Too wide. When I mounted them up the axle flange was not mating to the drum, but the groove on the back of the drum was meeting the lip of the backing plate. Then I compaired the new drums to the ones on my Newpy and they matched.
After a lot of measuring I determined what was on the Fury when I got it was for some other Mopar drum brake system.
I even compared them to the 11x2.5 drums on the rear of my '69 Barracuda and those were different.
As of right now the car stops really well with what I've done; Scarebird front disc set up with a Wilwood power master cyl. and the rear drums from my Newpy. I just need to find this vibration because I want to daily the car.

I've pondered the merits of a Scarebird disc kit for mine, but think if I do so, I'll adopt the master cylinder used in my '83 D150. That truck proves that folks DO NOT NEED brake boosters to effectively run Mopar disc brakes on a heavy vehicle. The discs used on that D150 are the same as those used on the Formal C bodies too. I won't do brake boosters. I only suffer power steering on our family car because it IS a big lot of sheetmetal to steer with just muscle, even with a gearbox properly geared for that. I like muscle steering on the truck though! Of course, its a bit SHORTER than Gertrude, our '68 Newport...

Nothing I like more than seeing folks drive their C-body Mopars daily! They really were of a Quality not seen since, and I never drive in traffic without a few compliments on our ride.

 

[Brad Nelson]

I've pondered the merits of a Scarebird disc kit for mine, but think if I do so, I'll adopt the master cylinder used in my '83 D150. That truck proves that folks DO NOT NEED brake boosters to effectively run Mopar disc brakes on a heavy vehicle. The discs used on that D150 are the same as those used on the Formal C bodies too. I won't do brake boosters. I only suffer power steering on our family car because it IS a big lot of sheetmetal to steer with just muscle, even with a gearbox properly geared for that. I like muscle steering on the truck though! Of course, its a bit SHORTER than Gertrude, our '68 Newport...

Nothing I like more than seeing folks drive their C-body Mopars daily! They really were of a Quality not seen since, and I never drive in traffic without a few compliments on our ride.

When I bought this car at a local auction whoever had this car last was trying to do some sort of disc brake conversion, but it was a mess and lots of parts were either missing or didn't make sense. I think they were trying to adapt a bowtie set up, but there was half a SSBC kit with it.
I was going to cut to the chase and put a Wilwood system in, but for all they talk a good game their customer service of actually helping me figure out what of their stuff to buy was terrible.

 

[Gerald Morris]

When I bought this car at a local auction whoever had this car last ....

We just have to assume any of these old vehicles have been buggered to the maximum extent possible while keeping them physically present, and that we will then have to rebuild damn near every item bolted, wired or inserted before we can consider ourselves properly "safe." I start with the sheetmetal and a good punch...

I was going to cut to the chase and put a Wilwood system in, but for all they talk a good game their customer service of actually helping me figure out what of their stuff to buy was terrible.

With functional illiteracy the norm, we can't trust anyone's bullshit Customer (DIS)service. I look for quality of manufacture only as my guide to what to purchase. What I LOVE about Old Mopar is the DOCUMENTATION! That makes them the hands down winner with me.