door handle fix

Ron McDowell

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Both my rear doors dont open, push button opener is not engaging.
Anyone have some pics of steps to fix. Does the door panel pop off ?
sorry fro the dumb questions ..lol
It's a 1973 Newport
 
Yes they pop off. Just be gentle. You'll have to remove door handles, window cranks etc.. They have tools for this job but... are you trying to take panel off with the door closed? That is a diff animal then. Will it open from inside?
 
How long has this issue been happening? When was the last time the doors were used?

In order to get the trim panel off, the doors need to be openable so you can un-engage the panel clips along the bottom of the panel and also the retainers at the top where the panel slides down over the door shell inner structure.

Roll the windows down and use a light to look down inside the door as the pushbutton is pushed. See if all of the linkage moves, related to the pushbutton moving.

Please keep us posted on your progress,
CBODY67
 
Had the same issue with my 69 wagon that had been sitting for 30 + years. If you have a harbor freight store, go and purchase their blue colored plastic trim removal kit/

https://www.harborfreight.com/trim-...9RoGZuddYwDlINA_F7tG6UzG-EJiE3UxoCvpoQAvD_BwE

The door handles are secured with allan wrench type screws. There are two large phillips screws under the armrest that need to be removed. The door pull is usually a secured with a hex bolt. Check under the metal ash tray for any hidden screws.

The panels are secured to the door with wire spring type clips. Carefully use the trim tool to get between the fiber door panel backing board the the metal frame of the door and pry them loose from the holes in the door.

Once the are all loose at the bottom. with the window rolled down so the glass is not contacting the black whiskers on the top of the door panel, lift the panel upward, it is secured in place with two tent stake like clips that position the panel in the top of edge of the window frame. Remember to un-thread - remove the lock button ; )

Once you peel back the plastic, the door lock mechanism is located at the right hand side. Put some old rags - paper towel down and clean it with your choice of cleaner. Let it sit for awhile and let the cleaner work its way in. Then start working the mechanism - re-spraying cleaner until it works. Lubricate and you are done.

These rear locks are not as smooth easy to work as the front door locks - force wise.

Grab some double sides tape to help keep the plastic moister shield material in place when re-assembling the door.

This would be a good time to clean the window track of old grease with a tooth brush and re-lube with white lithium grease.

Take you time, this is all mechanical stuff, there is not too much that you can do that would result in any "damage".

lining up the door panel wire springs in the holes can be a bit challenging, lots of crawling around under the door.

Have fun
 
You are probably going to need to remove the rear seat to get the door panels off.

That's going to be tough with the front seat in, so I suggest you pull that too.

I know... I just added more work to the problem, but I can't see getting the door panels off without doing that.

So.... I would do what @CBODY67 suggested first.
 
IDK exactly what seizes up in these things but I've got a semi-local yard where you can't get the doors open on most of the c bodies...trying to pull up the lock buttons or pulling the inside handles and kicking the doors still does nothing...and of course what I want off one of the cars is the door panels
 
Once you have access to the latched you can try spraying them with penetrant.
That didn't work for me, I was able to get a screwdriver in there and move the release. That isn't as obvious as you'd think, I had a working release to look at the operation and see what moved when you opened the door.


Alan
 
I had the same problem with the rear door on a 1964. After scratching my head awhile, I lowered the window and shined a flashlight down inside the door to see how it was supposed to work. Then sprayed a bunch of penetrating oil on the latch, and worked it repetitively with the outside door handle. It eventually opened.
 
Had the same issue with my 69 wagon that had been sitting for 30 + years. If you have a harbor freight store, go and purchase their blue colored plastic trim removal kit/

https://www.harborfreight.com/trim-...9RoGZuddYwDlINA_F7tG6UzG-EJiE3UxoCvpoQAvD_BwE

The door handles are secured with allan wrench type screws. There are two large phillips screws under the armrest that need to be removed. The door pull is usually a secured with a hex bolt. Check under the metal ash tray for any hidden screws.

The panels are secured to the door with wire spring type clips. Carefully use the trim tool to get between the fiber door panel backing board the the metal frame of the door and pry them loose from the holes in the door.

Once the are all loose at the bottom. with the window rolled down so the glass is not contacting the black whiskers on the top of the door panel, lift the panel upward, it is secured in place with two tent stake like clips that position the panel in the top of edge of the window frame. Remember to un-thread - remove the lock button ; )

Once you peel back the plastic, the door lock mechanism is located at the right hand side. Put some old rags - paper towel down and clean it with your choice of cleaner. Let it sit for awhile and let the cleaner work its way in. Then start working the mechanism - re-spraying cleaner until it works. Lubricate and you are done.

These rear locks are not as smooth easy to work as the front door locks - force wise.

Grab some double sides tape to help keep the plastic moister shield material in place when re-assembling the door.

This would be a good time to clean the window track of old grease with a tooth brush and re-lube with white lithium grease.

Take you time, this is all mechanical stuff, there is not too much that you can do that would result in any "damage".

lining up the door panel wire springs in the holes can be a bit challenging, lots of crawling around under the door.

Have fun
sounds exciting ...oh boy.
 
Had the same issue with my 69 wagon that had been sitting for 30 + years. If you have a harbor freight store, go and purchase their blue colored plastic trim removal kit/

https://www.harborfreight.com/trim-...9RoGZuddYwDlINA_F7tG6UzG-EJiE3UxoCvpoQAvD_BwE

The door handles are secured with allan wrench type screws. There are two large phillips screws under the armrest that need to be removed. The door pull is usually a secured with a hex bolt. Check under the metal ash tray for any hidden screws.

The panels are secured to the door with wire spring type clips. Carefully use the trim tool to get between the fiber door panel backing board the the metal frame of the door and pry them loose from the holes in the door.

Once the are all loose at the bottom. with the window rolled down so the glass is not contacting the black whiskers on the top of the door panel, lift the panel upward, it is secured in place with two tent stake like clips that position the panel in the top of edge of the window frame. Remember to un-thread - remove the lock button ; )

Once you peel back the plastic, the door lock mechanism is located at the right hand side. Put some old rags - paper towel down and clean it with your choice of cleaner. Let it sit for awhile and let the cleaner work its way in. Then start working the mechanism - re-spraying cleaner until it works. Lubricate and you are done.

These rear locks are not as smooth easy to work as the front door locks - force wise.

Grab some double sides tape to help keep the plastic moister shield material in place when re-assembling the door.

This would be a good time to clean the window track of old grease with a tooth brush and re-lube with white lithium grease.

Take you time, this is all mechanical stuff, there is not too much that you can do that would result in any "damage".

lining up the door panel wire springs in the holes can be a bit challenging, lots of crawling around under the door.

Have fun
appreciate the advice..doesnt sound like fun...lol
 
How long has this issue been happening? When was the last time the doors were used?

In order to get the trim panel off, the doors need to be openable so you can un-engage the panel clips along the bottom of the panel and also the retainers at the top where the panel slides down over the door shell inner structure.

Roll the windows down and use a light to look down inside the door as the pushbutton is pushed. See if all of the linkage moves, related to the pushbutton moving.

Please keep us posted on your progress,
CBODY67
appreciate the advice, yes, I can open the doors from the inside.
I'll need to get inside the panel to see why the door handle button is doing nothing
 
Both my rear doors dont open

I can open the doors from the inside.
It really helps us help you if you give all the details, like that you can open the doors from the inside.

I'd say that a lot of this advice was given thinking that you couldn't open the doors at all.

Obviously, my advice about removing the seats doesn't apply.
:lol:

So..... Before you take the door panels off, take some penetrating oil (NOT WD-40) and carefully spray a little around the push button and let it sit a little and then try the button. Wipe any off the paint (obviously), but something like PB-Blaster shouldn't hurt. This may take a few applications, but I have freed up stuck door handles this way. The button may only move a little at first, but spray a little more and work it and you might free it up.
 
It really helps us help you if you give all the details, like that you can open the doors from the inside.

I'd say that a lot of this advice was given thinking that you couldn't open the doors at all.

Obviously, my advice about removing the seats doesn't apply.
:lol:

So..... Before you take the door panels off, take some penetrating oil (NOT WD-40) and carefully spray a little around the push button and let it sit a little and then try the button. Wipe any off the paint (obviously), but something like PB-Blaster shouldn't hurt. This may take a few applications, but I have freed up stuck door handles this way. The button may only move a little at first, but spray a little more and work it and you might free it up.
the button is not stuck, when is press it there is nothing...seems like the button is not engaging with the mechanism inside
 
the button is not stuck, when is press it there is nothing...seems like the button is not engaging with the mechanism inside
OK, I misunderstood that.

Door panel does need to come off... I'll bet the rod to the back of the handle is disconnected. There's a plastic retainer that can break and let the rod pop out.
 
OK, I misunderstood that.

Door panel does need to come off... I'll bet the rod to the back of the handle is disconnected. There's a plastic retainer that can break and let the rod pop out.
ok great, unfortunately it happened to both rear doors.....:(
 
ok great, unfortunately it happened to both rear doors.....:(
Once you figure out one door, the other will be easy.

Most of those clips, both plastic and metal, are available as they are kind of generic. But before we jump to conclusions, take the panel off and give it a look.

Here's the diagram from the parts book. I couldn't find the rear door, but this front door will be the same except no lock (48 and 49). Look at 50, 52, and 53 when you get the panel off.

This also shows the arm rest and inside handle that has to come off first.


1756298383095.png
 
I have three of these. On set in my '08 Magnum work vehicle (I re-wire hot rods), another set in my 60" toolbox in my garage and a third pair in my toolbox that I just dragged home from the shop I worked at wiring police, fire and DPW vehicles before I finally retired.

They're great for removing stubborn, rusty, upholstery clips without destroying the cardboard upholstery panels.

From Amazon:

1756585301856.png
 
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