Car sat for 2 months, now starter just clunks

[darth_linux]

After two months of sitting waiting for the brake booster to be rebuilt, the starter now just clicks when I try to start the car. Sounds like the solenoid is popping forward but not spinning. The battery has been on a tender this whole time, and jump starting from another vehicle did not improve the situation.

Do I just have maybe some stickiness going on that a little "percussive persuasion" would fix if I hit it a few times with a hammer?

 

[Big_John]

Check the battery voltage. Should be ~12.5.

Then jump the starter relay and see if it cranks.

 

[Lefty71]

Id pull the starter and have it bench tested in lieu of the hammer. Follow post two first tho....

 

[darth_linux]

Check the battery voltage. Should be ~12.5.

Then jump the starter relay and see if it cranks.
View attachment 732798

battery voltage 12.65. Jumping the two terminals results in the same clicking sound as if the solenoid plunger is engaging but not turning. Keep in mind, this starter is a reman unit, installed 5 years ago, and has never presented a problem until today, after sitting idle for 2 months.

 

[Toolmanmike]

Id pull the starter and have it bench tested in lieu of the hammer. Follow post two first tho....

One of the last things to do. Only if all other tests fail.

 

[CBODY67]

How does the battery LOAD CHECK? Voltage can still be good but not enough capacity to make things work correctly, sometimes.

The other side of the deal is that if it is 5yrs old, might not be dead yet, but it CAN be in the future. Might see if it will last through the winter, for general principles.

IIRC, battery warranties are not pro-rated any more, just "Months of Free Replacement"?

CBODY67

 

[Gerald Morris]

battery voltage 12.65. Jumping the two terminals results in the same clicking sound as if the solenoid plunger is engaging but not turning. Keep in mind, this starter is a reman unit, installed 5 years ago, and has never presented a problem until today, after sitting idle for 2 months.

Sometimes, you can get a sticky starter to unstick by shifting into neutral, rolling a foot or so, then slapping it into Park, or even R, then Park. I've done that with a couple of mine on odd occasions, with good result. If that doesn't get it to engage, you should pull it.

 

[darth_linux]

How does the battery LOAD CHECK? Voltage can still be good but not enough capacity to make things work correctly, sometimes.

The other side of the deal is that if it is 5yrs old, might not be dead yet, but it CAN be in the future. Might see if it will last through the winter, for general principles.

IIRC, battery warranties are not pro-rated any more, just "Months of Free Replacement"?

CBODY67

I’m not sure, but getting the same results while jump starting the car should eliminate the battery load voltage check from the equation, in my mind.

 

[darth_linux]

Sometimes, you can get a sticky starter to unstick by shifting into neutral, rolling a foot or so, then slapping it into Park, or even R, then Park. I've done that with a couple of mine on odd occasions, with good result. If that doesn't get it to engage, you should pull it.

I will give that a try, thanks

 

[Sixpactogo]

My first thought was to make sure the battery cables are clean and making good contact with the posts. If they are, then more than likely the starter bendix is not kicking in or a loose connection at the starter.

 

[Gerald Morris]

My first thought was to make sure the battery cables are clean and making good contact with the posts. If they are, then more than likely the starter bendix is not kicking in or a loose connection at the starter.

Those are The Fundamentals. BUT, starter bendices occasionally **** up. When I was in line for my Emissions test last Saturday, I'd shut down to prevent the engine from warming up beyond optimum, then, damnit! when I got the Green Light, had to slap my starter in just the fashion I described to young Darth Linux. Damn starter was spinning mind you, but didn't engage until I did that. Hasn't repeated such, and I don't worry. I suspect there might be some worn spot in the tooth ring on my torque converter or such, as with various starters, I've had this happen over the past 9 years. I just bench resurrected a Tuff Stuff starter about 3 months ago. I now suspect Something Just Got Stuck, so a few years of letting it lie in dirt, dropping **** on it, tom cat piss and all fixed it. I haven't even opened the damned thing, but now it snaps forward like new!

 

[darth_linux]

My first thought was to make sure the battery cables are clean and making good contact with the posts. If they are, then more than likely the starter bendix is not kicking in or a loose connection at the starter.

Battery and cables all cleaned up while the booster was getting rebuilt and the new AC lines went in. Plus I jump started it with no change - just the solenoid kicking out but not spinning.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Battery and cables all cleaned up while the booster was getting rebuilt and the new AC lines went in. Plus I jumped started it with no change - just the solenoid kicking out but not spinning.

Yeah, you need to yank that fucker methinks. I SEEN THIS Movie my friend. If its a reman from Oh Really?, VatoZone, CrAPA or such, get a warranty exchange. Thats the only thing these slug shops do right anymore.

 

[Jakter]

I will give that a try, thanks

I wouldn't.
Just pull the starter.

 

[MoPar~Man]

Measure the voltage at the starter, the small solenoid terminal, while someone is holding the key in the start position. Naturally you should be getting 12 volts there. And yes, the neutral switch in the transmission or the wiring from the switch could be bad. It's going to the start relay, see if that that terminal on the start relay actually is grounded when the shifter is in park or neutral.

This could just be a "glitch" in the solenoid, which (as mentioned above) a mild tap with a hammer usually corrects. Do this while someone is holding the switch in the start position and be prepared for the engine to kick over while whacking the starter.

You could also measure the resistance between the solenoid terminal on the starter to ground. This should be a low resistance, maybe a couple ohms. If you're getting a high resistance or open circuit, then that's pretty conclusive for an open coil or some major fault in the solenoid internal connections.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Measure the voltage at the starter, the small solenoid terminal, while someone is holding the key in the start position. Naturally you should be getting 12 volts there. And yes, the neutral switch in the transmission or the wiring from the switch could be bad. It's going to the start relay, see if that that terminal on the start relay actually is grounded when the shifter is in park or neutral.

He wouldn't be getting ANY action from the solenoid if the NSS wasn't right. He is. The problem specifically is failure of the starter to spin up. This smacks of either an internal wiring failure in the starter, or the solenoid failing to close the last contact to the starter brushes prior to the starter armature. As a reman starter, there's a good probability that it IS the starter, but by all means exaust every other consideration first, then junk the damned thing when exhausted.

You could also measure the resistance between the solenoid terminal on the starter to ground. This should be a low resistance, maybe a couple ohms. If you're getting a high resistance or open circuit, then that's pretty conclusive for an open coil or some major fault in the solenoid internal connections.

 

[CBODY67]

Might be time to upgrade to the newer '90-someting Dakota starter and necessary terminal relocation kit? Yes, the older OEM Chrysler starters worked great, but finding one at an auto supply, in stock, might be getting harder to do.

DO get a long wrench and do the "tap test" diagnostics. It worked for years, in a time before many vehicle owners "had gauges". IF it works, fine, if it does not, the end result will be the same . . . gat a replacement installed.

It can save time if you FIRST go to where you suspect you might end up anyway. Look at how much quicker things got rectified! In the case of rebuildable/fixable car parts, KEEP THE OLD ONE for rebuilding purposes and DO NOT send it back for "the core charge". Find QUALITY rebuild parts, repair it, and THAT one becomes "your next replacement"

Buying an electrical part with a Lifetime Guarantee CAN mean two different things. IT had great parts inside of it OR they want you to "come back soon". YOUR judgment call. Of course, that long guarantee can be worthless if the seller goes out of business or closes stores in your area! Been there, done that.

CBODY67

 

[Sixpactogo]

I have a couple of those old style starters in my loft if you want to stick with them but as was mentioned, maybe time to upgrade to the smaller but more powerful unit. That is why I have a few of the old ones.

 

[Gerald Morris]

....

It can save time if you FIRST go to where you suspect you might end up anyway. Look at how much quicker things got rectified! In the case of rebuildable/fixable car parts, KEEP THE OLD ONE for rebuilding purposes and DO NOT send it back for "the core charge". Find QUALITY rebuild parts, repair it, and THAT one becomes "your next replacement"

YES! Keep the Old Stuff! These crappo corporate vendors give little for those "cores" anyway. If one is pinched for TIME, sure, buy a CRAPA Corp "reman". I've found the odds about in the 1 Normal Curve that the things will work for at least a week. Decent gamble. KEEP THE RECEIPTS!

Buying an electrical part with a Lifetime Guarantee CAN mean two different things. IT had great parts inside of it OR they want you to "come back soon". YOUR judgment call. Of course, that long guarantee can be worthless if the seller goes out of business or closes stores in your area! Been there, done that.

It comes to the subtle matter of WHOSE Lifetime, doesn't it? Still, if the CRAPPO Corp chain of choice for the week seems solid enough, it might be worth the $. I get about 2 out of 3 good results on such crap shoots....

 

[Gerald Morris]

I have a couple of those old style starters in my loft if you want to stick with them but as was mentioned, maybe time to upgrade to the smaller but more powerful unit. That is why I have a few of the old ones.

Hey! I might want ONE of those myself, if you feel the itch to make some space in your loft. PM me on that. My Tuff **** is a Denso style one. I replaced that with one ostensibly Old Style, but newly made. I LIKE the old ones, as they don't spin the damned motor up so fast. I know I could re-gear a Denso, but I love the Old Mopar Sound!