Rear axle endplay (without measurement tool)

[Stargazer]

Ok, I'm replacing the rear brake shoes and hardware. While at it, pulled out the driver side axle out to inspect the bearing. Cleaned it and it looks good. Will put fresh grease in it and also replace the axle seal. After the driver side is back together, start the passenger side.

Before I pull that passenger side axle, is it possible after inspection and regreasing, to reinstall it exactly the way it came out?
Since I don't have endplay measurement tool, I would like to know.

 

[MoPar~Man]

Do you have to worry about the diff fluid pouring out when you pull the axle shaft? Or remove the seals? Assuming you've got the axle roughly level to start with?

@Stargazer what type of bearings do you have in there, and did you know before hand?

 

[Big_John]

Ok, I'm replacing the rear brake shoes and hardware. While at it, pulled out the driver side axle out to inspect the bearing. Cleaned it and it looks good. Will put fresh grease in it and also replace the axle seal. After the driver side is back together, start the passenger side.

Before I pull that passenger side axle, is it possible after inspection and regreasing, to reinstall it exactly the way it came out?
Since I don't have endplay measurement tool, I would like to know.

In theory, if you don't move anything, you should be able to put it back together the way it is. That's if everything was good before and it's all the same now.

Since you haven't pulled the passenger side yet, move it back and forth to get an idea of what it was and match that.

You are supposed to have .008-.018" (.2-.45mm) end play. At the very least, check it by pushing back and forth. It should have less than a matchbook cover thickness, ideally about half the thickness, in end play. It's hard to tell you how much that is in "feel" and it may be worth buying the dial indicator for peace of mind.

A cheap dial indicator with magnetic stand is really all you need though. Nothing fancy needed at all. Here in the states, about $30 buys both.

 

[Stargazer]

Do you have to worry about the diff fluid pouring out when you pull the axle shaft? Or remove the seals? Assuming you've got the axle roughly level to start with?

@Stargazer what type of bearings do you have in there, and did you know before hand?

No, the axle shaft was off course covered in diff fluid pulling it out. I checked the fluid this summer, never a problem.
I just figured to change the seal while the axle is out.

See the picture for the bearing. I had no idea what before hand. Looks factory?

 

[Stargazer]

In theory, if you don't move anything, you should be able to put it back together the way it is. That's if everything was good before and it's all the same now.

Since you haven't pulled the passenger side yet, move it back and forth to get an idea of what it was and match that.

You are supposed to have .008-.018" (.2-.45mm) end play. At the very least, check it by pushing back and forth. It should have less than a matchbook cover thickness, ideally about half the thickness, in end play. It's hard to tell you how much that is in "feel" and it may be worth buying the dial indicator for peace of mind.

A cheap dial indicator with magnetic stand is really all you need though. Nothing fancy needed at all. Here in the states, about $30 buys both.

That is what I was thinking.

I just pulled the passenger side back and forth John, and apparently it moves way further according to a caliper, a little less than 2mm!!
But could this be because the driver side axle is out? If not, I will definitly need to adjust the end play! And check that side bearing.
Funny thing is, the car never gave any problems there.

I will get me a dail indicator.

 

[Big_John]

I just pulled the passenger side back and forth John, and apparently it moves way further according to a caliper, a little less than 2mm!!
But could this be because the driver side axle is out? If not, I will definitly need to adjust the end play! And check that side bearing.

Yes, that's because the driver side axle is out. I was thinking that you had already put that back in.

The axle ends butt against the "thrust block" in the differential. What you are measuring is the amount of play that adds up with the axles and thrust block. Hopefully that makes sense!

 

[Big_John]

See the picture for the bearing. I had no idea what before hand. Looks factory?

That's the tapered bearing that was originally used. It may or may not be the original bearing, but it is the same type.

 

[Stargazer]

Yes, that's because the driver side axle is out. I was thinking that you had already put that back in.

The axle ends butt against the "thrust block" in the differential. What you are measuring is the amount of play that adds up with the axles and thrust block. Hopefully that makes sense!

That is good to hear John. That does make alot of sense. I will check/measure again when driverside axle is back in place, before removing passenger side axle. And go from there.

 

[Fury1969WI]

unless you carefully marked where that adjuster was positioned/locked on the PS axle before disassembly i think you will just have to set the end play starting from scratch.

once re-assembled, starting with the fixed/driver side axle...

the old tech writer for Mopar Action magazine used to recommend giving the adjusting (PS?) axle face a light / easy blow with a 2-3# hammer to butt axle ends and thrust block up before setting the lock on the adjuster to an approximate recommended setting (see above, it's just something a skosh above zeroish). Then, take the car out for a drive and put it through both left and right turns and re-check axle shaft endplay. I've used this method successfully several times but i am kind of a hack.

 

[Stargazer]

unless you carefully marked where that adjuster was positioned/locked on the PS axle before disassembly i think you will just have to set the end play starting from scratch.

once re-assembled, starting with the fixed/driver side axle...

the old tech writer for Mopar Action magazine used to recommend giving the adjusting (PS?) axle face a light / easy blow with a 2-3# hammer to butt axle ends and thrust block up before setting the lock on the adjuster to an approximate recommended setting (see above, it's just something a skosh above zeroish). Then, take the car out for a drive and put it through both left and right turns and re-check axle shaft endplay. I've used this method successfully several times but i am kind of a hack.

Thanks for this advice, from one hack to another ;-)
I will get me a measuring device and use this method.