Recent content by watchfatha

I'll take the 64 am/fm bezel. You can probably fit it in a Priority medium box $16 commercial price or $18.40 regular price. Please let me know where/how to pay. I can do Paypal or Zelle. Thanks, Norm Silverman 991C Lomas Santa Fe Drive, #428 Solana Beach, CA 92075

My first new car was a 1976 Dodge Royal Monaco Brougham with the first year 400 ELB. It ran flawlessly. The only electrical/ignition problem that ever presented itself was a blown ignition resistor (the white block thing) during the first year of ownership. Nothing more.

I use Autolite 85 in my current 66(440) imperial and in all of the preceding 26 Imperials before it with 413's and 440's. I have found that the Autolites resist pinging on today's reduced octane fuels much better than any other plug

Before you knock yourself out taking apart the motors, remove the plastic shield that covers the gear because very often the rubber that surrounds the gear swells up where it rubs against the shield cut out, and that slows down the motor. You have to shave off some of the rubber isolator. You'll...

That's the quote I was referring to. Thanks

Read the FSM carefully; it will tell you what position the valve train needs to be in (which #7 valve depressed) in order to facilitate the easy clearance of the valve cover. That said, I've done 1964-5-6 valve cover gasket replacement on the passenger side WITHOUT taking off the heater core...

I've had 27 Imperials and never saw one with radio delete before. AC was NOT standard on any Imperial till the 70's (except the Italian Ghia limos). That's the correct OEM dash panel, and notice it also does not have a power antenna switch (which would normally be mounted at the map light below...

Very few cracks and nice chrome. $150 OBO (plus shipping) Solana Beach, CA 92075

Thanks, I found it. I had removed and tinkered with the non-op clock, and did not put it back together with enough crimping force to make it have a good ground. That caused it to have intermittent contact and go to ground. As soon as I unplugged it and then replaced the fuse everything (except...

I recently upgraded all of the bulbs in my dash to LED. They look great. However, in doing so I must have dislodged or chafed something because now my antenna and my front cigar lighter are shorted (blown fuse). When I replaced the fuse it blew immediately-twice. What I would like to know is...

I just did the headlight switch on my 66 Imperial, along with the transmission shift indicator cable (not present on 64), plus replaced all dash bulbs with LED bulbs. I just got to where my arms have stopped bleeding and I can put on a shirt. One thing is certain when working on an Imperial, or...

I would make sure that the rubber fuel hose connection at the tank is good. If it is cracked or porous the fuel pump (which is PULLING vacuum at that point) can suck in air and give some of the symptoms you identify. Same goes for any rubber fuel line from the tank line there it sits up front...

The HEADLIGHT switch is pictured and the instructions are correct for that. Did you mean headlight switch or wiper switch?

You don't often find an old car in this kind of condition: excellent. Needs no current repairs. Get in and drive. Period. Tags are current. A low production, high style car that you can get in and drive. No known mechanical issues other than non-working gas guage and non-cold AC. Power Steering...

As you are undoubtedly aware by now, you don't need a puller to remove the rear brake drums on a factory 1966 rear axle. However, if some day you should find yourself in a circumstance where you own a 64 and earlier MOPAR you WILL absolutely need a puller for the rear drums, and if you know...