Recent content by ynst

I know, it's not a C-body but it's MM1 Turbine Bronze. Here's my B-body '68 GTX a couple of weeks after I took delivery of it in February of '68 And this one was shot a few years ago while out putting around the New England countryside. Yeah, I still own it and have since it was new...

You’re blowing out all of the water that’s accumulated in your exhaust system from starting the engine and not actually DRIVING the car long enough to heat up and evaporate all of the accumulated moisture. That’s one of the reasons why daily drivers that only go a couple of miles to and from...

I use VR-1 in my '68 GTX, my '53 hemi-powered '34 Ford, my Spitfire six powered '48 seven passenger sedan, and the '72 Dart Swinger I just gave to my daughter last week and I have been doing so for 13 years or so. VR-1 has, by far, the highest percentage (0.20%) of ZDDP of any oils.

Use a high-zinc content oil like 20W-50 Valvoline VR-1 (by far, the best) or Mobile 1 Racing oil. In 1994 the industry removed zinc from motor oils because it had a negative effect on catalytic converters. While this benefited newer engines, it dealt a death blow to older engines with flat...

Is the oil pump new? Did you prime it before installing it? If it isn't primed, it won't work. The gearotor needs to have a film of oil on it to help it get started sucking oil up through the pick-up tube. A dry oil pump rarely works right out of the box.

Because a lot of these "collector" cars sit around for long periods, a lot of condensation tends to form in nearly-empty tanks and this condensation causes the exposed area of the tank to rust. There are a couple of ways to minimize this problem. One is to fill the tank before storing the...

If the steering wheel twitches one way or the other when you start the engine, the valve body needs adjustment. The FSM, in the steering box rebuild section, tells you which way to tap the valve body to correct the problem. It's been a while since I had to adjust one of these valves (probably...

Nope, just laid out a logical sequence of events to come to the same conclusion without disassembling the entire dashboard. I grew up in the "troubleshoot using theory of operation methodology" as opposed to today's "swap stuff until you find the problem" repair philosophy. Thinking things out...

What you're describing sounds like the instrument lights are seeking a ground THROUGH the instruments and the ground they're "finding" is the gauge sender(s). Your instrument has become part of a voltage divider circuit in the now convoluted ground path. It's the same thing you'll experience...

Surging at a constant speed in high gear (like driving down a flat road at 35 mph and NOT accelerating) is a sign of timing too far advanced. It's more pronounced if you're driving a manual trans vehicle, too.

One of the dirtiest headlight plugs I've ever seen. No wonder the lights are dim. It looks like they're full of over-spray.

Get your hands on a good rust solvent like Kroil and, using the supplied tube, spray liberal amounts down between the glass and the sheet metal while aiming the spray tube in the direction of the latch (which is usually two or three inches below the door handle. Give the mechanism a few hours...

"All the cars power runs through the ammeter" No it doesn't. This is the case ONLY when the engine isn't running and the battery, itself, is supplying the power. Once the alternator (or generator) starts working the current flow through the ammeter changes direction and ALL of the power...

Amazon has the OTC 7394 as well with the same price as the Summit AND next day free delivery for Prime members

A couple of places come to mind. Andy Bernbaum Mopar Classic Parts - Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth, Desoto 1935-71 World's largest seller of new and N.O.S. vintage & classic Mopar parts for Chrysler, Plymouth, Desoto, Imperial and Dodge cars and trucks, 1930-1971 Kanter Classic Car Parts – Kanter...