Wheel load weights

[Dsertdog]

When I purchased my '66 Polara convertible, I procured a set of vintage aluminum slot wheels to install on it one day.

That day will arrive shortly. However, before it does, I thought I'd check one last thing. Hindsight 20/20 and all that.

I want to discuss load weights. The wheels for the front are 14x6 Ansen sprints drilled for a 4.5 x 5 bolt pattern. Cast into the back of the rim is a load weight of 1580 lbs. That would be 3160lbs per pair.

Tire load weight is 1675 per tire and size is 225/70/14. Aprox curb weight of car is 4,000 lbs. The car is used for cruising and highway driving. No pylon racing or drag racing is anticipated.

I'm certain that's enough for a slab drop top but will entertain thoughts and opinions.

 

[CBODY67]

When the Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA) formed, one of the first things they did (about 1963?) was do build their famous "SEMA wheel specs" for their aftermarket wheel company members. So they took the SAE (?) OEM wheel strength specs and then put their specs at something like "5 to 1" or "6 to 1" of what the OEM specs were. I never have seen the OEM specs, so I don't know what they were. SEMA got a lot of traction with that new spec as when you bought aftermarket wheels back then, some did not crack as others did. Which, of course, could be a huge safety issue.

When they came up with their wheel certification spec, it was big news in the world of car people. It was covered in the big-time car magazines, too. "Look for the SEMA certification emblem" sort of thing.

As to the weight capacity stampings, most current aftermarket wheels usually have a weight capacity of 1500 to 2100lbs for each wheel. Usually listed in the "Wheel Specs" section listings for the wheels. Those weight stampings can also serve as the maker's liability limits, too.

Starting with the suspected 4000lb weight, do not forget to add 20 gallons of gas ((as most cars are shipped with about 3-4 gallons of gas in them (i.e., shipping weight)). THEN they used to consider that each passenger would weigh an average of 150lbs (which can be increased per person, as necessary, to about 200lbs each in modern times, to me). PLUS whatever is in the trunk (other than the spare tire and jack mechanism), up to about 500lbs. So what started out as 4000lbs could escalate to about 5000lbs quickly. Just an awareness issue, of sorts.

Back then, aftermarket wheels were usually in the realm of A, B, E-body Mopars, it seemed. Which would be fine for the stamped weights. I don't recall seeing C-body cars with "mags" on them, back then . . . few and far between. But if there were any OEM fancy wheels, THEY could be there. OF course, for a '66 Mustang or earlier A-body 'Cuda, they'd be perfectly fine.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[Dsertdog]

Good call as usual sir .

I (ahem) "assumed" that this weight was as tested in a road test. I don't believe 3100 lbs would be on the front end of the car.

They have a Sema 5-1 stamp.

I know that they've been used, and to have survived so long with without failing may be a testament in itself.
Thanks for responding. Here's a couple of photos!

 

[Just Carbs]

During my high school years, I slid one of those on a 67 Firebird into a curb at about 30 mph. It bent the axle shaft, but not the wheel.
I don't remember if the wheel contacted the curb or just the tire.

And later ran the same car over a short 4x4 at 70 mph. It damaged the front tire, but not the wheel. Or the rear tire.

 

[cbarge]

When I purchased my '66 Polara convertible, I procured a set of vintage aluminum slot wheels to install on it one day.

That day will arrive shortly. However, before it does, I thought I'd check one last thing. Hindsight 20/20 and all that.

I want to discuss load weights. The wheels for the front are 14x6 Ansen sprints drilled for a 4.5 x 5 bolt pattern. Cast into the back of the rim is a load weight of 1580 lbs. That would be 3160lbs per pair.

Tire load weight is 1675 per tire and size is 225/70/14. Aprox curb weight of car is 4,000 lbs. The car is used for cruising and highway driving. No pylon racing or drag racing is anticipated.

I'm certain that's enough for a slab drop top but will entertain thoughts and opinions.

Put them on and enjoy them.
Just make sure lug nuts hand torqued 90 ft lbs and retorqued after 100 miles.
Set tire pressure 6 psi over original bias ply pressure. If car calls for 26 psi put 32 in the radials.
Give the slots a good rub with mothers mag wheel polish or Autosol for a nice shine and protection from the elements.
I Had watched videos of cars being crushed and the wheels tend to hold up under the extreme pressure.
Most wreckers pull the wheels because of this to get more flattened cars stacked up. Lol.
Hope this helps!