Score!!! What a deal on new Wheels and tires!

Super confused. I’m guessing with Polara71 being here they don’t make a 16”, it jumps from 15 to 17. ****, now I’ll have to go look.....

Chad, my man...a free piece of advise...do an EXHAUSTIVE search.

Here, there, EVERYWHERE. You may find what you search for, young Jedi...but if you dont, you would have learned alot along the way.

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Was this on the small blocks as well? My understanding was only the big blocks had no gaskets from the factory. I would love to know for certain.

From the factory as I understand it, no, no gasket for any big block.

But big blocks (and small blocks) do get molested over time...so consider the gasket a little bit of insurance if you are confident you have a leak because of warped (or "machined") surfaces. {your results may vary}
 
Was this on the small blocks as well? My understanding was only the big blocks had no gaskets from the factory. I would love to know for certain.
The small block did use an exhaust gasket.

I should have been specific as you were answering @Jon O. and he has a Newport which (I assume) has a big block... which should not have the gasket. If your car has a small block, then yea, replace the gasket.
 
1972 Dodge Polara Custom Coupe 46k Original
7 of 16
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1972 Dodge Polara Custom Coupe 46k Original - $8 (Bothell, Mill Creek)
For Sale is my:
1972 Dodge Polara Custom Coupe
Yellow on Green Vinyl matching vinyl top
360 2v, 2 barrel Holley*, 727 torqflite
46,650 original miles, all original
2 owner car
Zero rust, minus a very few surface spots
Was purchased new locally in 72, stayed locally, then garaged and treated from 1987-2018.
Car was repainted in 80's, but was originally yellow.
I purchased recently, and as a mechanic, tore motor down to longblock, new double roller timing chain set, timing cover, seals, water pump, accessory drive hardware, radiator, rad hoses, Valve cover gaskets, plugs, wires, distributor, cap/rotor, etc. Less than 200 miles on these items. Fresh engine oil/ filter and trans service.
Car has brand new dual exhaust system.
I have the original wheels in Like new condition with wire wheel caps as 95% tread Cooper Trendsetter whitewall tires(shown in first two photos)
Car runs and drives excellent. All original electrical components, everything works great.
Has a few small items for next owner, needs shocks, trunk latch can be a pain. Few scratches and rock chips, etc.
Wheels on car now are American Racing AR135 Torq Lites 17x8F, 18x8R with 95% tread. Also shown above
Car includes all original keys, books, both sets of wheels (unless you don't want), and an Edelbrock performer 4 barrel aluminum intake with a *4 barrel Holley 4160 that was just rebuilt(photo above)
Complete low mile original car. First person to show with the cash in hand, or sign a bill of sale/deposit (if shipping needed) gets the car. Please call or text me, I'm not big on email with all the junk mail.
My name is Chad- 206-853-3982
 
From the factory as I understand it, no, no gasket for any big block.

But big blocks (and small blocks) do get molested over time...so consider the gasket a little bit of insurance if you are confident you have a leak because of warped (or "machined") surfaces. {your results may vary}
Never seen a big block with an exhaust gasket that didn't eventually blow out. Just sayin....
 
The small block did use an exhaust gasket.

I should have been specific as you were answering @Jon O. and he has a Newport which (I assume) has a big block... which should not have the gasket. If your car has a small block, then yea, replace the gasket.
Found out mine is leaking where someone spliced a new muffler in. I was actually working on replacing the terrible fittings they used today.
 
Nowadays there are some really good temporary exhaust clamps/ patches. Really though if you just show up at a local exhaust shop, especially if they like your car, they’ll throw it on a lift and do a cheap repair, for me exhaust repairs that don’t need mufflers or gaskets are usually only $40-$50
 
Nowadays there are some really good temporary exhaust clamps/ patches. Really though if you just show up at a local exhaust shop, especially if they like your car, they’ll throw it on a lift and do a cheap repair, for me exhaust repairs that don’t need mufflers or gaskets are usually only $40-$50
I put in way better fittings than the tin can quality ones that were used. And yes I noticed when I went to buy them that there were so many to choose from.
 
Lol...thanks. I searched all night. Couldn’t find anything, and now I have to go to work :(
I saw someone connect a shop vac blowing into the tailpipe once, then you can FEEL where the leak is instead of just looking. Mine had huge black streaks where it was leaking, so it wasn't hard to find.
 
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I tightened up the manifold bolts on mine, (5 out of 8 were loose.) and replaced some bad patchwork, and mine has no tick anymore and is much quieter.
 
I just got back from Ace Hardware and getting a gasket. What a nightmare sourcing the bolts. I bought 6 5/16 x2.25” grade 8 studs which were 5/16x18 on head side and 5/16x24 on nut side. Then I bought 2 5/16x18 1..25” flange style grade 8 bolts, then 4 5/16x18 2” flange style bolts, 12 5/16 grade 8 black automotive flat washers and 12 of the same style lock washers.
If anybody needs the (keyword) Chrysler Dodge Mopar small block LA 318,340,360 exhaust manifold bolts/ hardware the sizes are as follows: repeat for search as I couldn’t find them.
(6) 5/16x18 2” grade 5 or 8 studs (5/16x18 thread on head side/ 5/16x24 on nut side)
(2) 5/16x18 1.25” grade 5 or 8 bolts
(4) 5/16x18 2” grade 5 or 8 bolts
(12) 5/16 Black Auto grade flat washers
(12) 5/16 black auto grade lock washers
(6) 5/16x24 stainless or flange style nuts (x24 fine thread for manifold side of studs)

You may not need to use both style washers, but one or the other if not both will make later disassembly easier. I’m starting now on manifold removal. I pull clutch fan belts and let the motor get really hot (215-220 deg Fahrenheit) so the heads and manifolds are super hot. With gloves, break all bolts loose and shut down. After shutting down I use a 3/8 impact and just go to town. If they break they break, but the impact is a continuos motion. Hand tools are a start/ stop motion, so I have always had amazing luck with using a smaller impact and just going for it.
If anybody doubts this google Ford 5.4 3v spark plug broke off in head. I can remove these nasty Ford 3 piece plugs without ever breaking them because of this technique. They are known for breaking off about 50% of the time after 50k miles.
Off I go! I’ll change title to wheels/ tires and exhaust manifold gasket R&R
 
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I just got back from Ace Hardware and getting a gasket. What a nightmare sourcing the bolts. I bought 6 5/16 x2.5” grade 8 studs which were 5/16x18 on head side and 5/16x24 on nut side. Then I bought 2 5/16x18 1.5” flange style grade 8 bolts, then 4 5/16x18 2.25” flange style bolts, 12 5/16 grade 8 black automotive flat washers and 12 of the same style lock washers.
If anybody needs the (keyword) Chrysler Dodge Mopar small block LA 318,340,360 exhaust manifold bolts/ hardware the sizes are as follows: repeat for search as I couldn’t find them.
(6) 5/16x18 2.5” grade 5 or 8 studs (5/16x18 thread on head side/ 5/16x24 on nut side)
(2) 5/16x18 1.5” grade 5 or 8 bolts
(4) 5/16x18 2.25” grade 5 or 8 bolts
(12) 5/16 Black Auto grade flat washers
(12) 5/16 black auto grade lock washers
(6) 5/16x24 stainless or flange style nuts (x24 fine thread for manifold side of studs)

You may not need to use both style washers, but one or the other if not both will make later disassembly easier. I’m starting now on manifold removal. I pull clutch fan belts and let the motor get really hot (215-220 deg Fahrenheit) so the heads and manifolds are super hot. With gloves, break all bolts loose and shut down. After shutting down I use a 3/8 impact and just go to town. If they break they break, but the impact is a continuos motion. Hand tools are a start/ stop motion, so I have always had amazing luck with using a smaller impact and just going for it.
If anybody doubts this google Ford 5.4 3v spark plug broke off in head. I can remove these nasty Ford 3 piece plugs without ever breaking them because of this technique. They are known for breaking off about 50% of the time after 50k miles.
Off I go! I’ll change title to wheels/ tires and exhaust manifold gasket R&R

Indeed. Been there, seen that. Thank you for the tip!! And thanks for the P/N's! :thumbsup:
 
No problem. Manifolds off, broke the front and back of course but with a little booger and some oxyacetylene they came out pretty easy. Unbolted downpipe, taking manifold to machine shop in morning to plane and make sure seal is 100%.
I just wanted to write up the hardware because I was searching like crazy online and took me way too long to figure out exactly what was what. I updated them as well because the studs were right size but bolts were 1/4 longer than originals.
 
I Freiburger’d it today. Not smart to grind and cut with icy torch in sandals.
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Also have you guys checked out Deboss garage on YouTube? So good, Rich is the salt of the earth. Canadian and really hard worker. Also I started watching Nicks Garage... I’m sure you guys all know Nicks garage. I’m hooked....
 
Can a moderator merge this thread with my other build thread please. Or can someone give me a mods name so I can PM them? Thanks
 
Just write things in one thread, the other (this) will slowly fade into the background, and the other thread will flurish.
 
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