69 and older voltage regulator vs 1970 and newer in 1969 C-Body

[Fury1969WI]

I have the older style (cannister type) VR on my 69 Fury. My replacement engine wiring harness when car was restored 8-10 years ago was set-up for that style VR. I'm running the round back / single field wire alternator and mopar electronic ignition.

I had a solid state VR unit in it that failed after about 8 years / 40k miles of service. I have a feeling when i was washing the engine compartment/under hood stuff a couple weeks ago (in preps for the FCBO show ) i may have gotten it wet, but IDK.

I put an original mechanical type VR in that I had laying around and i'm back to getting battery to charge - though my aftermarket voltage gauge is jumping around 12-14 at idle but holds steady at 1000RPM and up.

My question is, is there any practical advantage to hacking my wire harness to use the newer style VR? I inadvertently purchased the adjustable one some time ago and have another NIB one so rather than buy another solid state 69-down one would it be "better" to go to the newer style? One advantage i can see is the newer/70s up VR seems to have better parts store availability - that's a plus.

I did some searching around and found this thread that implies (infers?) that the newer style VR is better for more "modern" alternator outputs - but i wonder if the solid state cans can handle similarly.

Headlight electrical issue help 66 sport fury

Finally, if the consensus is to update the 69 down VR to the 70 up VR anyone have pics of how these are mounted on a 69 firewall/engine compartment? I have some ribs in the firewall where the smaller/current 69 VR that might make a good mounting there a challenge.

 

[Big_John]

My question is, is there any practical advantage to hacking my wire harness to use the newer style VR? I inadvertently purchased the adjustable one some time ago and have another NIB one so rather than buy another solid state 69-down one would it be "better" to go to the newer style? One advantage i can see is the newer/70s up VR seems to have better parts store availability - that's a plus.

I don't see any advantage to using a '70 up alternator/regulator.

The '70 up regulator controls the negative side of the field, where the '69 down controls the positive side of the field.

Since you can buy a decent electronic VR for your '69, IMHO there's nothing to be gained. You got 8 years/40K miles out of the old one.

If you buy a '69 and down VR at the local parts store, chances are 99% it's going to be an electronic version and not mechanical.... and they probably don't stock either one anyway.

 

[MoPar~Man]

There is a guy on the slant6 board (MadScientistMatt) that designed and produced some new 70-up regulators this year that are adjustable and have well-specified, temperature-compensated characteristics. He's selling them here:

https:// cramerpower . com/products/adjustable-voltage-regulator-fits-1970-and-later-chrysler-dodge-plymouth

 

[Fury1969WI]

There is a guy on the slant6 board (MadScientistMatt) that designed and produced some new 70-up regulators this year that are adjustable and have well-specified, temperature-compensated characteristics. He's selling them here:

https:// cramerpower . com/products/adjustable-voltage-regulator-fits-1970-and-later-chrysler-dodge-plymouth

that is wild looking!

 

[Vaanth]

I have the older style (cannister type) VR on my 69 Fury. My replacement engine wiring harness when car was restored 8-10 years ago was set-up for that style VR. I'm running the round back / single field wire alternator and mopar electronic ignition.

I had a solid state VR unit in it that failed after about 8 years / 40k miles of service. I have a feeling when i was washing the engine compartment/under hood stuff a couple weeks ago (in preps for the FCBO show ) i may have gotten it wet, but IDK.

I put an original mechanical type VR in that I had laying around and i'm back to getting battery to charge - though my aftermarket voltage gauge is jumping around 12-14 at idle but holds steady at 1000RPM and up.

My question is, is there any practical advantage to hacking my wire harness to use the newer style VR? I inadvertently purchased the adjustable one some time ago and have another NIB one so rather than buy another solid state 69-down one would it be "better" to go to the newer style? One advantage i can see is the newer/70s up VR seems to have better parts store availability - that's a plus.

I did some searching around and found this thread that implies (infers?) that the newer style VR is better for more "modern" alternator outputs - but i wonder if the solid state cans can handle similarly.

Headlight electrical issue help 66 sport fury

Finally, if the consensus is to update the 69 down VR to the 70 up VR anyone have pics of how these are mounted on a 69 firewall/engine compartment? I have some ribs in the firewall where the smaller/current 69 VR that might make a good mounting there a challenge.

View attachment 738514

In general, there is no big advantage to upgrading from a pre-1970 system, with a solid state version of the regulator and single field connection grounded brush alternator, to the 1970 and later regulator and matching dual connection isolated field alternator. As John notes, if all else is working well, replace your regulator with a good one in your existing system.

If you decide to change though, in addition to the later style regulator, you will need the following:

• Regulator connector/pigtail
• Isolated field alternator
• 16 gauge wiring, preferably blue, and possibly some green
• Spade terminal and insulator (Packard 58 or 56 style preferred), possibly two of each
• Splicing material, soldering items optional
• Optional piggyback spade connector
• Mounting hardware (see the following section about mounting)

To connect the new regulator, refer to the following drawing and do the following:

1. Disconnect the car battery.
2. Disconnect and remove the old regulator.
3. Mount the regulator to the firewall, ensuring a good electrical ground (see the following section about mounting).
4. Connect the voltage regulator connector/pigtail to the new voltage regulator.
5. Disconnect and remove the old alternator.
6. Install the new alternator and connect the charging post to the original connection.
7. Connect the old green wire connector to one of the field connections on the alternator.
8. Cut the regulator field connector end from the green wire.
9. Splice and insulate the old green wire into the green wire of the new voltage regulator pigtail.
10. Splice or connect a new wire (preferably blue) to the ignition switch side of the ballast resistor, optionally use the piggyback spade connector and a terminal connector and insulator.
11. Run the new wire to the blue wire of the new voltage regulator pigtail.
12. Install a terminal connector and insulator on, and run another new wire (preferably blue) from the other field connection on the alternator, to the blue wire on the pigtail of the new voltage regulator.
13. Splice and insulate the three wires at the pigtail.
14. Reconnect the car battery.
15. Optionally check the blue wiring by turning on the ignition switch without cranking the engine and measure the voltage at the alternator field terminal(s). The measured voltage should be within a few tenths of a volt of the battery voltage.
16. Start the engine and check for battery charging voltage.

Diagram of 1970+ voltage regulator with electronic ignition wiring with the regulator wiring highlighted:

To easily mount the new style regulator in place of the old style, locate and use the adapter bracket from a 1970 B-body. Mount the adapter bracket to the firewall, then mount the new regulator to the bracket. Ensure good grounding. Use the original style bolts with the barbed washer if possible.

The following images show the adapter bracket, a voltage regulator, connector/pigtail, and bolts:

The following image shows the bracket with regulator installed on the firewall of my 1967 GTX that I converted about 30 years ago:

NOTE: The voltage regulator pigtail, part number 2983727, was available from Chrysler but now discontinued. A good used one from a scrap wiring harness can be used or new aftermarket is available. Standard Motor Products S-573 is commonly available. A metal retainer, part number 3588348, was also used. Replacement pigtails do not have a retainer, and it is best to use one, but a tight molded connector can hold without it.

---

 

[Fury1969WI]

In general, there is no big advantage to upgrading from a pre-1970 system, with a solid state version of the regulator and single field connection grounded brush alternator, to the 1970 and later regulator and matching dual connection isolated field alternator. As John notes, if all else is working well, replace your regulator with a good one in your existing system.

If you decide to change though, in addition to the later style regulator, you will need the following:

• Regulator connector/pigtail
• Isolated field alternator
• 16 gauge wiring, preferably blue, and possibly some green
• Spade terminal and insulator (Packard 58 or 56 style preferred), possibly two of each
• Splicing material, soldering items optional
• Optional piggyback spade connector
• Mounting hardware (see the following section about mounting)

To connect the new regulator, refer to the following drawing and do the following:

1. Disconnect the car battery.
2. Disconnect and remove the old regulator.
3. Mount the regulator to the firewall, ensuring a good electrical ground (see the following section about mounting).
4. Connect the voltage regulator connector/pigtail to the new voltage regulator.
5. Disconnect and remove the old alternator.
6. Install the new alternator and connect the charging post to the original connection.
7. Connect the old green wire connector to one of the field connections on the alternator.
8. Cut the regulator field connector end from the green wire.
9. Splice and insulate the old green wire into the green wire of the new voltage regulator pigtail.
10. Splice or connect a new wire (preferably blue) to the ignition switch side of the ballast resistor, optionally use the piggyback spade connector and a terminal connector and insulator.
11. Run the new wire to the blue wire of the new voltage regulator pigtail.
12. Install a terminal connector and insulator on, and run another new wire (preferably blue) from the other field connection on the alternator, to the blue wire on the pigtail of the new voltage regulator.
13. Splice and insulate the three wires at the pigtail.
14. Reconnect the car battery.
15. Optionally check the blue wiring by turning on the ignition switch without cranking the engine and measure the voltage at the alternator field terminal(s). The measured voltage should be within a few tenths of a volt of the battery voltage.
16. Start the engine and check for battery charging voltage.

Diagram of 1970+ voltage regulator with electronic ignition wiring with the regulator wiring highlighted:
View attachment 738574

To easily mount the new style regulator in place of the old style, locate and use the adapter bracket from a 1970 B-body. Mount the adapter bracket to the firewall, then mount the new regulator to the bracket. Ensure good grounding. Use the original style bolts with the barbed washer if possible.

The following images show the adapter bracket, a voltage regulator, connector/pigtail, and bolts:
View attachment 738571
View attachment 738572

The following image shows the bracket with regulator installed on the firewall of my 1967 GTX that I converted about 30 years ago:
View attachment 738573


NOTE: The voltage regulator pigtail, part number 2983727, was available from Chrysler but now discontinued. A good used one from a scrap wiring harness can be used or new aftermarket is available. Standard Motor Products S-573 is commonly available. A metal retainer, part number 3588348, was also used. Replacement pigtails do not have a retainer, and it is best to use one, but a tight molded connector can hold without it.

---

Thanks @Vaanth - awesome reply / info!
I think i will procure a new solid state 69-Down unit for now since everything is fairly recent and in good order. Appreciate the insights. I will keep an eye out for that B-Body mount ... kinda reminds me of the ignition module mount i snagged off a 73 Chrysler - you can't really see it in the picture, but that orange box is standing off the firewall on the bracket.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

The 69 has the drill dimple for the 70+ regulator. I got the engine harness for the 70, it has a longer lead to the starter relay. I chose the use the idle solenoid lead to power my electronic ignition. There may have been some other pinout/connector changes.

Alan

 

[halifaxhops]

Lots of great info posted here. If needed I have a few of the solid state regulators available. PM me if needed.

 

[Fury1969WI]

The 69 has the drill dimple for the 70+ regulator. I got the engine harness for the 70, it has a longer lead to the starter relay. I chose the use the idle solenoid lead to power my electronic ignition. There may have been some other pinout/connector changes.
View attachment 738579


Alan

Thanks for this - I was thinking about just ordering a 70+ engine harness if i attempted this update. Glad to know it worked for you.

 

[Toolmanmike]

I have the older style (cannister type) VR on my 69 Fury. My replacement engine wiring harness when car was restored 8-10 years ago was set-up for that style VR. I'm running the round back / single field wire alternator and mopar electronic ignition.

I had a solid state VR unit in it that failed after about 8 years / 40k miles of service. I have a feeling when i was washing the engine compartment/under hood stuff a couple weeks ago (in preps for the FCBO show ) i may have gotten it wet, but IDK.

I put an original mechanical type VR in that I had laying around and i'm back to getting battery to charge - though my aftermarket voltage gauge is jumping around 12-14 at idle but holds steady at 1000RPM and up.

My question is, is there any practical advantage to hacking my wire harness to use the newer style VR? I inadvertently purchased the adjustable one some time ago and have another NIB one so rather than buy another solid state 69-down one would it be "better" to go to the newer style? One advantage i can see is the newer/70s up VR seems to have better parts store availability - that's a plus.

I did some searching around and found this thread that implies (infers?) that the newer style VR is better for more "modern" alternator outputs - but i wonder if the solid state cans can handle similarly.

Headlight electrical issue help 66 sport fury

Finally, if the consensus is to update the 69 down VR to the 70 up VR anyone have pics of how these are mounted on a 69 firewall/engine compartment? I have some ribs in the firewall where the smaller/current 69 VR that might make a good mounting there a challenge.

View attachment 738514

That Filko brand regulator you have there is one of the best in the business. You can still find new ones for sale on E bay.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Thanks for this - I was thinking about just ordering a 70+ engine harness if i attempted this update. Glad to know it worked for you.

You also have to get the transmission harness as it doesn't connect to the engine harness in 70


Alan