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P=Plymouth P=Premium (Sport Fury) 23= 2 door hardtop E=318 engine 6=1966 6=assembled at Newark, Delaware plant

The Master cylinder size is important in the manner of how much pressure is transferred to the brake fluid but is only part of the formula. Here is the formula for figuring out what you need......... Say you have an 8" single diaphragm booster and a master cylinder with a 1" bore. The formula...

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Join me in welcoming @greg yoder to FCBO.

Different perspective but valid point. Main objective is safety above all. Thanks for that.

But then you could argue that the drum booster would still provide upgraded brake power to the disc brakes over manual drums, plus the accuser would need to prove that this was cause of the accident. Forensic testing of the brake force and so on would then determine if there was something wrong...

Or you can buy the same thing in standard threads 5/16" by 1 1/2" long.

Yup, use the disc booster, 1000% for the reasons above, PLUS this: If for some reason you're involved in an accident where a serious injury or death occurs, and in the investigation to determine why, and it's determined that you did the work on your car (as an unlicensed mechanic), and...

As far as I was aware, the size master cylinder was more important than the booster in regards to building the neccessary pressure! The booster is there to assis your foot and thats where you have to decide if you are okay "having to step on it harder" or to have a "soft and mushy pedal".

Thanks for posting this @Fratzog Does that sfgt at the end appear white? Or light blue? silver?

I replaced the old bolts with slotbolts M8x40

I believe it is either a 65 or 66 Sport Fury. VIN is PP23E66130165. What can you tell me about this #, and in particular, what engine?

Join me in welcoming @Riv-King to FCBO.

Never seen that someone did this at the seat brackets but i did it with a few c bodies...... In front and back of the bolt that is going through the floor there,s a hole , so the bolt in the middle is standard from the factory.... If you replace the bolt in the front hole you get 1 inch more...

On the other side of things, the V-6s were more cost-sensitive and competitive. The cost of the rear bar (and related assy line complexity) could easily be covered in the cost of the optional Hemi V-8, unnoticed.

When I first found the Scarebird website and "upgrades", I thought it was neat to find somebody who was using "auto supply" parts rather than used parts from a salvage yard. Things one could go down ant order rather than messing with chiggers, grassburrs, and possible critters in the grass...

If you think about that, the hemi is probably heavier than the V6 and therefore, more nose heavy... So more understeer. Put a rear sway bar on and that reduces understeer.

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