But then you could argue that the drum booster would still provide upgraded brake power to the disc brakes over manual drums, plus the accuser would need to prove that this was cause of the accident. Forensic testing of the brake force and so on would then determine if there was something wrong with it. But that would mean that the justice system would work and not simply create a witch hunt without any evidence like they usually do.
Mechanics aren't neccessarily "licensed", I could literally go and apply at a shop and be a mechanic so I don't know if that argument holds. Some places only hire you with the SAE certification, sure but most around here don't require it. I also have seen more "trash" done by "licensed mechanics" than others. We actually care about our vehicles, the person you pay to work on them does not, and only does it for the money, not the passion. Having someone else install the kit, I would personally expect that the bolts get left loose... just as a perspective from what I have seen before.
Still, I would do it correct and use the correct booster for the discs. Booster really is just an assist to your force on the foot. As far ad I am aware, there is no "requirement" to have that and it sort of falls under the "creature compfort" as I understand it. Anyway, do it the right way lol.
To me, the POINT is that IF Chrysler's performance standards could have been met with the drum brake power booster on power front disc brake vehicles, they would NOT have spent the money to put the dual-diaphram booster on the disc brake cars, period. It's about the total area of the diaphram(s) that makes it work.
In the Fuselage cars, they had more cowl real estate to support a larger diameter booster, but they still used the Midland-Ross booster for power drum brakes, as my '70 DH43 has on it, just like my '66 Newport Town Sedan has.
Many mechanics might not need to be "licensed" (dependent upon where they are located), but they CAN be certified in the brake system area of expertise by a 3rd party organization. By taking a test and having some experience in the particular area. Certainly, anybody can sign up for, pay the money, and take the test, to hopefully pass it. By observation, few people not "in the biz" do that, so that certification AND patch are "credentials", but have to be renewed every so often. OEMs have their own training programs, too. These things would be "credentials" of the fact "something was known about what was done". If a prosecuting attorney did not ask about related credentials, they would not be doing their job well. BUT of course, this is why we have insurance for such situations! Personal or business.
In the DFW area, tv and radio are full of "accident and injury" lawyers who have orchestrated $$million settlements for their clients. Usually from "big trucking firms", but they can direct their efforts to "little people", too. Just be aware of these things.
Disc brakes might be better in the mountains and from higher speeds, as to stopping and fade resistance, but in unexpected situations, it's still "that first stop" that is usually where things happen. In THAT scenario, the OEM drum brakes would lock all four wheels (or at least the rears) such that it was tires that made the difference, not the braking system itself. With the driver's skill in steering around the issue a plus (evasive maneuver).
It has always been my orientation to do "upgrades" with at least an OEM level of execution and parts as the best way to do things. Suspension parts, brake parts, engines, etc.
Respectfully,
CBODY67
