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Found mine. Passenger side is good the driver side someone put screws in it

I thought about doing that. The issue was there wasn't a lot of material to wrap around the panel, so adding any foam might make that even worse.

What are they? for the people , like me?

i will try to send a picture of the clips.

This is the one I sold 5 years ago and it’s definitely worth looking at. It is priced very fairly! 1967 Chrysler Chrysler Imperial Crown coupe

You might indeed have a poor electrical connection. You may try to duplicate the issue by wiggling harnesses. Maybe a poor ground?

Hey Cartel, I’ve talked to a few Engine builders and they said perfect cam bearing alignment is desirable but the 75% that is open like yours is totally acceptable and okay. There will be plenty of oil pressure and flow. As far as the lifter bores, did you pay to have them honed? If not, they...

I don't think it's cutting out completely but it's hard to tell as its comes and goes pretty quickly. It feels more like the normal amount of throttle just isn't there. I was able to pull into a side road the first time. Engine was still running and after pulling over I was able to drive away...

I'd lean towards the carb tuning or a vacuum leak. Would you say that your pedal position is just barely cracked? Maybe it's oscillating between transition points (not sure if I'm saying that right). I could also be full of poop. Just trying to throw some ideas out there.

Join me in welcoming @Leviathan to FCBO.

I used 3 or 4 screws & nuts and then taped the seam between the metal and the new masonite. Also added a thin layer of foam to help smooth out that seam.

I don't believe so. I've had those in the trunk with the spare, in non tow package cars and my A35 car did not have those.

On my '65, the handle releases the latch on the outer track & also pulls a wire that runs across and releases the latch on the inner track. There is a flat metal hook that pulls on the middle of the wire to keep it under tension & it attaches to the seat frame with a J bolt to allow adjustment...

I am also thinking of paying the extra $299USD for the stealth head Competition Valve Job Should I do this and is there anything else I should ask them to do while they are at it? thanks!

I was thinking of using this cam CL21-224-4 with the stealth heads. I dont want to have interference problems with the L2315 flat top pistons. The shop said I'll be ok but I need to verify everything. Comp says 68 and up because different lifters. I read here if I go with the matching push rods...

Took a few quick pictures. I'm a bit worried anout this front cam bearing. Is it something to take it back for? $2800 you'd think it would be perfect. I was there all summer. lifter bores look untouched. not sure it thats good or not

There have been a number of similar statements - and it boils down to "factory engineering is best" for these braking systems hands down - at least, that's my opinion. Others may differ, and it's their right to disagree. When you say your 68 has a Midland booster with a disc conversion - is...

Your best bet for shipping would be to ship them to Sumas WA and pick them up yourself. There is a company that receives packages for a nominal fee there. 440 Source can tell you how they package their stuff. Packing, Shipping, Mailing | Sumas, WA | Letterlock Sumas Kevin

I've had no issues with the leed booster to date. I did have to contact them when I installed it to have them send me a different pedal to booster rod that didn't come with the kid(came with the most common 3 lengths of course I needed the 4th option). There was no charge for this rod.