Search results for query: *

I have all of the Mopar part books in paper (cars and trucks) from 1929 -2012 and the handy Mopar CD loaded on my computer that covers 1981-2012 (cars and trucks)

Does this not work with the federal? Not really sure which one I have. Looks like the notch that indicates which one you have, is behind the pulley so I still need to take off the pump to see, is that correct? (so need to remove the pump and pulley to figure out if what kind of pump i have)

Do you still have this and would you be willing to part with it?

You guys are geniuses!!!!!!!! I ran a ground wire to the body of the car to complete the circuit and .... BOOM! It works (again). @Big_John I didn't feel like wrestling that thing back into the door with the doubt of it not working lingering in the back of my mind. I don't have a clue as to...

I'm in the process installing a new oil pan gasket on my 1968 Polara with a 383. Fyi, I've got a 187 type pan. There are two brackets that run from the back part of the pan flange to the front cover of the bellhousing. Since both of them are cracked in two (see pic). I'm wondering how necessary...

Thanks @sevnt300, too bad I didn’t get the tag info for the ‘69 we stripped for parts. @ayilar, here is another tag for the “Last of the Convertibles” thread. Here is a pic of the car:

I got the cheapee $25 guage so unless I come up with a plate welded to a nut to screw on the end of the spindle, I can't get it to sit on the spindle as-is. The spindle nut seems to be the same size/thread as the lower control arm pivot-shaft nut. > If the caster is zero the car will rise and...

Curious.

The motor case's mounting points should provide the ground to the body to complete the circuit, but I have seen some window motors that require a ground wire. Make sure the motor is grounded properly in addition to what Big_John is suggesting.

Join me in welcoming @dbrush95 to FCBO.

I'm starting to remove the trim on my 66 300. I was wondering how do I get the pin out of the clips in locations where I can't get to the back side. Any help would be appreciated.

No I didn't touch them before the rod run, no time. Put nice new ones on with the nice new stub. Stopped extremely well when i turned the car around to deal with some stuff up front, but a week later during the rod run brakes were junk. The only thing I changed was to plug up the rear brake...

Is the Plymouth in your avatar the car you are driving? If so, what is the front tire/wheel package and what alignment numbers do you like on it?

Put the motor in the car and try running it off the 12v source. I'm wondering if something is binding when it's mounted.

‘73 C -body left/driver’s side disc brake spindle, dust shield and caliper bracket. $150 with USPS flat rate box shipping included. I do not have the other side.

Hi @T-revorNobody I somehow missed that post of yours. As of 4 months ago, this 1970 Hurst tribute 'vert was still available on Offer Up: Buy & Sell Locally - OfferUp - Buy. Sell. Simple. PS: for records, this is CM27T0C110092 -- originally EB7 blue with blue interior.

@Ross Wooldridge Just did the 12v check I'm getting about 12.9v to the motor plug when I hit either switch I used my Milwaukee battery to check the motor again and yes, it worked both ways. I gotta be missing something

Normally with the limited adjustment you can also try to get as much castor as pissible without getting positive camber!