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(The carb is sitting on a SBC, not that it matters)

Never had worried about that. One night, years ago, a transmission shop owner showed me how much larger in diameter the friction plates were in a 727 than for the allegedly equal THM400. The TF was quite a bit larger in diameter and square inches of material, which means more torque capacity...

Worked out great motor came right out Thks very much!’ Now I just need to find new brushes and springs one ones fried.

Yes, I saw that in the FSM. These are rough. One is barely squeaking a sound out, others . . . . nothing. Going to try MGM1986's suggestion. If that doesn't work I'll crack the rivets off and look inside. Learn, learn, learn.

Yeah I have trim tools, but my door card is in pretty rough shape, soft from moisture, and I was REALLY hoping not to have to pull it. Guess I will though. Thanks all.

you want that red spring in the hole at the end of the kickdown rod to the front where the green one is also

Thanks Glad to be on board

Not necessarily: according to the info on the Hamtramck Registry Library, an E6XW interior (black dash/steering wheel/floor, white everything else) was available on the 1970 Newport 'verts and looks to match what I see in the ad.

Join me in welcoming @Thomjonsson to FCBO.

I got the sense that other transmissions have fewer thrust washers?

Might be some varnish accumulation as the shaft is basically straight.

Perhaps the commenter "on the web" might have desired to see Torrington Bearings instead of mere thrust washers? At least, as a wear item, as a thrust washer wears, protecting the surfaces it wears against, it just allows more shaft movement. Any bearing, as it wears, usually stops turning...

Thanks for the quick input. I have read through previous posts. My problem is that the push rod doesn't come out! It slides in and out about 1/2", but to won't just slide out. I'm back in the shop this afternoon. I'll let you know if I have success.

DO put some cam assy lube on the pushrod ends when installing it. Just for good measure.

that Ford additive is the same stuff Dr Diff recommends...

Nice ride. Regards from Poland. I use this oil in my 383 Big Block. https://allegro.pl/oferta/olej-syntetyczny-amsoil-premium-protection-10w-40-12762095606

That would be @Tobias74

@mopar preferred Why disagree with my post from March 26, 2023? Putting a question about removing studs in a parts thread is not going to get many answers. See above post #25

This is exactly what I did for my '68 300. My horns barely made any sound. After turning the adjustment screws in and out a few times they started to work. After doing this a bit they now work fine. Be gentle and don't force it.

Unfortunately the Sneaky Pete did not work to remove the upper half of the rear main seal (it is a rope seal). It would only screw in about half way before seemingly bottoming out. I removed the rear crank cap to improve access but still unable to get the old seal out. I am now planning to...