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IDK about where folks who can afford a "restoration mechanic" get their parts, but it appears that the brackets on his shroud came attached to it. Even with my 1965 shroud, meant for the 2524984 3 row radiator, 22", the steel shroud bolts to its brackets, which are bolted into the side of the...

The red spring is attached exactly as per the FSM for the 1968 Chrysler Newport. I doubled the throttle return springs, one inside the other to insure that if one broke, the other would still return the throttle to idle. I HATE having to turn the damned engine off suddenly when a throttle...

Use a wrench. They didn't torque it down TOO much, as that would split and bust metal there. Or, find a GOOD socket! The best are cast from good steel, so they don't have to be terribly thick walled. I see the cheap crap all the time. Sundry crack-heads mosey by, attempting to sell to me...

Don't do that! You can put LARGER hose on a SMALL barb, but the other way around will split the hose. Spend the $7 and get the Suzuki barb I linked, or something like it. They're not rare.

Yah, everything else in my fuel delivery is sized 5/16" excepting the damned 3/8" barb in the carb and the hose clamped to the 5/16" line. It hasn't leaked in 3 years, so I reckon the extra 1/16" of open diameter in the little hose got cinched in plenty tight and my enlarged flare on the end of...

Let me take a pic of my setup for you. Remember: I used a stock rigid steel fuel line meant for the old Carter AVS carb and fed it right up to the carb, and used a SHORT length of 3/8" rubber fuel hose to connect it to the 3/8" hose barb provided with the 1405 carb. I flared the end of the...

I found an old Craig under dash cassette player which I can stick a Bluetooth cassette adapter into. I feed this to a modest 100W Pioneer amp with 8 ohm, not 4 ohm impedance, so I can use 8 ohm speakers. This conforms to 1970s stereo sound anyway, w the pair of 6x9 Kenwood triaxial speakers I...

A Motorcraft 2150 probably will do alright on a 383, if the copy was decently put together. That's a good 2 barrel carb, favored in addition to Ford by Jeep. I would certainly be game to try it in preference to the Carter BBD from the 1968-71 period. I have two of those, one worthless, the...

I rejoice that you've solved the problem! Tightening loose nuts on that ammeter made a good connection, eliminating ONE source of jumpy current. GOOD! Later, I can tell you how to tie both of those leads together, and lug a nice fat #8 wire from the battery to them. Run the alternator...

Nah, new limiters don't fix anything but the gauges... DIRECTLY. BUT, if the old thermo electric ones combined with a circuit board short play up, you will see it all over the instrument cluster. I ground all the key stuff on my vehicles with bonding jumpers run back to the negative post on...

Yes, pls clear your inbox! I too am interested.

Having a '66 which we drove 5.5 yrs, I'm sufficiently familiar with those for the '66, and the different one for my current '68. So long as it isn't introducing any random current to the LIGHT bus on your instrument cluster, well and good. Those old boards certainly oxidize. If, as seems...

Very likely. Damn things get old, short out, and the Fun starts. A solid state one or any other 5V DC converter of sufficient ampacity would improve things. Suffice to say, the OP should check that bulkhead connector first, and possibly the circuit board on the instrument panel as well. THAT...

Nooo ****! Looks like they've all been bought up, damnit! Just 2 yrs ago, I saw a couple for just 1 C Note. THOSE DAYS HAVE GONE! Whether the Saginaw fac made things cross compatible between GM and Chrysler or not, the damn Saginaw steering columns require more expensive plastic. I'm...

A little warning to purchasers of newly made turn signal switches for Saginaw steering columns: BE WARY OF DIRECT SUN! About a month ago, the right turn signal on Gertrude ceased function when switching for it. Yestereve, so did the Left signal. I checked the flashers, and the lights all...

Yes, the headlight switch on most C body and other model cars from that era controlled ALL the lighting in the car. I experienced exactly the same symptoms and cure on my '66, and my '83 Dodge D150, which uses a very similar switch. (I could easily adapt it to the same truth be told.) Some of...

Here's a quick little test for you: Get a TEST LIGHT, something you can still score for $10 or so. Remove your dome light bulb, then attach the ground of your test light to a SURE ground. Test the light first, to be SURE that when its on a good hot 12V supply, it lights up properly. Now...

Yah. There IS power TO that switch. I suggest cleaning it well. Contact cleaner and q-tips if necessary, making sure to remove every cotton fiber after using them. Mine does decent thus. Won't hurt to put LEDs into the instrument panel also. Reduces current demand all around. The dome...

I have a '68, and have worked on the instrument panel lighting a bit myself. If you have the map light when you click the dimmer all the way, then the dimmer is still good. NOW, you will need to remove the instrument panel for deeper analysis: Download the FSM if you haven't got one. The...

Good on you! Pity I can't just walk across the Big Pond between us to help you get those old Mopars running.