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Correct again. The last 3 digits on my spring match do match my build sheet.

I dug up some more info for '68 suspension. Here are a couple of tidbits from the 68 dealer order book. Heavy duty suspension in the trailer - towing package and 440 Magnum got front and rear sway bars. (Edit) did I mis- read or assume rear sway bars? I am not finding anything in the parts...

I just as well post the remaining pages.

I found some interesting reading material on Chrysler Co springs in the 1968 Master Technician Set. 68-12 Extra Duty Options. Doesn't explain the difference why convertible or Monaco 500's got different springs, but discusses how they are designed for better handing. I find it interesting that...

I saw the same. The numbers on my springs were nowhere to be found in the 68 manual. I know on castings they have a different number than the actual part number. Are heat treated or forged springs the same?

Yes, the half is the one the small one that sticks out the front with the PN

Leaf 1 is actually what they call the 1/2 leaf. So you have the 6-1/2 leaves pack. What make and model car do you have? Is it a convertible or a Monaco 500? Do you know if you have the trailer option? As @CBODY67 said it is in the service manual, but does not address convertible or the...

They are factory but I modified them in high school by pulling out the third leaf and putting in two leaves from a late 60’s early 70’s F250 4x4. I had a little too much rake and couldn’t adjust the caster so it was like steering a pig with two sticks. After a couple of months chasing it down...

That’s what I am hoping to draw out from the crowd. I do know my Polara D-L w 383 engine would have had the 3004 658, but the pn on the bottom spring is 2835 354. Mine has 5-1/2 leafs. So at some time the part number was super seceded.

I am contemplating new springs to replace my existing modified springs. When I have a full tank of gas and then fill up the trunk for a road trip it seems to squat a bit. With trunk empty, no passengers and full tank of gas, the rocker panels are about perfectly level. Front height is adjusted...

Yesterday I started down the path of gathering some details before I ordered new springs for my ‘68 Polara. I figured I would find three or four different choices that came from the factory. But I discovered that each brand and model of C-bodies had the own P/N. So now I am trying to decipher...

Re-packed my front wheel bearings and rotated the tires. I have about 11,000 miles on since my restoration. Book says yearly or every 12,000 miles. Grease was still pretty clean but did it anyway.

Drove my 68 Polara to work today. About 33 degrees this morning around 6:00 but mid 50’s by noon. Heater works great. Had to turn it down. Also changed my oil and filter for the year. Way easier to change than my 2016 4Runner.

I had an extreme routing/detour on a package of mine a couple of years ago that added about 4 days. I believe it started in California made it to KC. Then was routed to a Philippines distribution center then back to Salt Lake then finally to Fargo.

Little known fact. Year one had a C-body catalog for a while. I did find some parts in there for my 68 Polara during the restoration. I may have bought a few things

A day late and a $ short. You gotta watch those Jack Rabbit fans. Go Bison. Anyway great games between the Dakota’s. Last weekend was a nail biter against the Yotes.

If the Adjustment bolt is low on the back of the control arm and high on the front of the control arm your axis between ball joints will be angled to the rear of the car giving you positive caster angle. If the adjustment bolt (Not the eccentric washer) Is high on the back of the control arm...

Try this page in the link to maximize caster. ‘68 Polara Alignment by the book Pulling to one side seems like a camber issue. Like riding a motorcycle if you lean the tire to the right it will turn right. Also described around the link above. Caster is more of a wander symptom versus a pull...

You have the same steering connector as 68 so no rag joint. Question. Is your steering column secured to your dash? If not you may try running a jumper wire from the metal column to a good ground. If the ground wire with the eyelet is not connected tightly to your steering column bolt you will...

One question did you have the steering wheel apart and replace the top steering wheel bearing. It’s the rubber coated one. It’s supposed to have a small staple in it to provide the ground for your horn. When I replaced mine I thought someone had stapled a tag to it, so I removed it. My horn no...