Two Wires into One Packard Connector Terminal?

[67_300_Convertible]

How does one fit two wires into the same single Packard connector terminal?

On my '67 300, I am missing the dark green wire that goes from the horn relay to the horns. This wire goes from the horn relay to one horn and then the other. The first horn in the series has two wires that go into the same connector. I am missing this wire and need to make it from scratch, unless someone has a spare I can buy.

See this post from @HWYCRZR for a photo of what I'm talking about. It's the Packard connector on the horn closest to the radiator.

Head light and horn issue

Does anyone have pictures of how the horns are wired up? I need pictures of that side of the engine bay and head light area please. Please send to fdinatally@gmail.com Thank you in advance for any help you can give

www.forcbodiesonly.com

 

[CBODY67]

There is a connector that slides onto the main connector that has a male and female connector on it. to functionally splice two wires together. There are also some connectors that will take two wires, too. As "two wires into one plug".

CBODY67

 

[Big_John]

How does one fit two wires into the same single Packard connector terminal?

On my '67 300, I am missing the dark green wire that goes from the horn relay to the horns. This wire goes from the horn relay to one horn and then the other. The first horn in the series has two wires that go into the same connector. I am missing this wire and need to make it from scratch, unless someone has a spare I can buy.

See this post from @HWYCRZR for a photo of what I'm talking about. It's the Packard connector on the horn closest to the radiator.

http://[URL]https://www.forcbodieso...s/head-light-and-horn-issue.50107/post-781139

[/URL]​

The easiest way is to buy a connector for #10 wire. Your horn wire is #16 gauge and ~.050" dia. #10 wire is ~.100" dia. It will fit... It might take a little patience to feed both wires into the connector, but it will work.

If you are not worried about keeping the factory insulators, buy a small pack of connectors, the yellow insulated ones are #10-12. I often pull the insulator off and use a piece of heat shrink for a neater appearance. If you want to use a factory insulator, the connectors are going to be harder to find and I don't have a good source for you. That will also probably be an open barrel connector and you'll need the correct crimper and even more patience.

What I did a couple times, because I didn't have a larger connector, was to solder two wires into an open barrel connector. Generally speaking, I don't like to solder wire connectors on, but that's another discussion.

 

[HWYCRZR]

How does one fit two wires into the same single Packard connector terminal?

On my '67 300, I am missing the dark green wire that goes from the horn relay to the horns. This wire goes from the horn relay to one horn and then the other. The first horn in the series has two wires that go into the same connector. I am missing this wire and need to make it from scratch, unless someone has a spare I can buy.

See this post from @HWYCRZR for a photo of what I'm talking about. It's the Packard connector on the horn closest to the radiator.

http://[URL]https://www.forcbodieso...s/head-light-and-horn-issue.50107/post-781139

[/URL​

@Big_John gave a good answer. In my photos, that was an original connector and wiring that I cleaned up.

 

[67_300_Convertible]

I knew if I asked I would get some good advice. Thanks, everyone.

 

[73Coupe]

The easiest way is to buy a connector for #10 wire. Your horn wire is #16 gauge and ~.050" dia. #10 wire is ~.100" dia. It will fit... It might take a little patience to feed both wires into the connector, but it will work.

If you are not worried about keeping the factory insulators, buy a small pack of connectors, the yellow insulated ones are #10-12. I often pull the insulator off and use a piece of heat shrink for a neater appearance. If you want to use a factory insulator, the connectors are going to be harder to find and I don't have a good source for you. That will also probably be an open barrel connector and you'll need the correct crimper and even more patience.

What I did a couple times, because I didn't have a larger connector, was to solder two wires into an open barrel connector. Generally speaking, I don't like to solder wire connectors on, but that's another discussion.

Rhode Island Wiring sells Packard terminals and insulators, along with other styles, and they might sell the crimper tools now too.

Perhaps other sources sell these too, such as mcmaster-carr.....

 

[67_300_Convertible]

Followed the advice of @Big_John and used a connector for a #10 wire for the dark green wire. Worked like a charm. Thanks.

That's the good news. The bad news is the horns don't sound. I know they work, but I think I have the violet (hot) and green wires reversed on the relay after looking at the photos from @HWYCRZR. After I wired everything, the horn ring wouldn't activate the horns. So I zip tied the horn ring to the steering wheel and went to probing with my voltmeter. Somehow while probing I did something to make the horns sound, but I don't know what I did. Ran out of time before I could finish troubleshooting, but at least the horns are mounted and I know they are still good after 57 years.

 

[HWYCRZR]

One question did you have the steering wheel apart and replace the top steering wheel bearing. It’s the rubber coated one. It’s supposed to have a small staple in it to provide the ground for your horn. When I replaced mine I thought someone had stapled a tag to it, so I removed it. My horn no longer wanted to work until I stumbled across a service bulletin describing the function of the staple. Also for older vehicles with the rag steering joints you need a ground across the rag joint. I think by 67 they had the metal coupler. They did in 68 anyway.

 

[67_300_Convertible]

One question did you have the steering wheel apart and replace the top steering wheel bearing. It’s the rubber coated one.

I don't know. I tried to unscrew the center cap on the steering wheel, but it wouldn't turn. I thought it would just unscrew. I gave up when it didn't because I didn't want to break anything. Below is a photo of the steering wheel. How do I get the center off?

 

[67_300_Convertible]

Regardless, I don't think I have the rag joint on my steering wheel assembly. Maybe someone can look at this photo and tell me for sure.

 

[HWYCRZR]

You have the same steering connector as 68 so no rag joint. Question. Is your steering column secured to your dash? If not you may try running a jumper wire from the metal column to a good ground. If the ground wire with the eyelet is not connected tightly to your steering column bolt you will want to connect it or use a jumper. The horn switch grounds through the steering column. If it doesn’t have a good ground, the horn will not compete the circuit.

The center cap takes about a quarter turn lefty loosy to take off. It is metal on metal tabs. So if it hasn’t been off it might be difficult to get started.