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The compressor on my 1980 Mirada was a "Sankyo" if I remember correctly. It worked great, never had a problem with it.

Welcome! Nice car!

ATF +4 is the superior fluid. The Ford fluid would work if it's Mercon, but if it's F-L-M it might cause hard shifts and harsh engagement. I know some people will say the F-L-M works great in the Torqueflite, and in fact the instructions that came with the shift kit my brother installed in his...

'76 Charger had a back end like that, but not that front end. This deserves more investigation!

I'm not a welder myself but the guy who fixed the frame on my Chrysler said you don't want to cut anything out but rather just encase the rusted out spots in new metal. Since it's a unitized body and frame, removing the frame is not really possible.

I think your best bet would be to find a big-block donor car and buy the whole car so you can easily see the differences and you'd mostly have all the parts you need, especially if it's a 440. I don't think it would need to be a Polara, probably any 1966 c-body would do.

If it's the original suspension it's probably already sagging some. Reducing the ride height more would really limit suspension travel and you'd keep hitting the rubber bumpers which would make the ride very uncomfortable. I'm not positive, but you might have alignment problems as well.

On my '68 300 my 4-way flashers weren't working, but after cycling the switch about a dozen times they started working.

That pulley on the A/C compressor looks like it l belongs on a slant 6, IMO.

Continuing with that train of thought the alternator would have had to have been with it's own belt because it doesn't line up with the compressor. Regardless, it's all wrong.

My guess is previously the belts were installed differently, in a non-factory way? To me it looks like the same belt could go around both the compressor and power steering pulleys. It might work but it wouldn't be right.

VR-1 is great oil, but it's not recommended for cars that sit a lot and don't get driven often. I would recommend something specifically for classics and hot-rods.

I agree the compressor doesn't look right. There should be two thin belts on it.

I don't know how tight your brakes are without actually trying to spin the wheel myself, but I do know that I've had some cars where the front wheels with the disc brakes were very hard to turn by hand. I would say that if you can turn it by hand at all it's probably OK. Disc brakes always...

I agree with that last post, you should be able to break the tires loose with everything stock if it's all working right. Dual exhaust is nice, but I think headers is overkill. Changing the rear gear will give you a lot of bang for the buck, but don't overdo it if you still want to be able to...

The 1960 Chryslers and DeSotos are truly great looking cars.

RIP someone's pride and joy.

They will break away in an accident so hopefully preventing the driver from receiving massive internal injuries. I believe they were introduced at the same time as the collapsible steering column. It's the main reason why I prefer to own a '67 and up. '67 was the first year that I feel any...

The 383 is a darn good engine and with a 4 bbl. carb and dual exhaust will make plenty of power. 440s are getting hard to find, and if you do find one it may need to be rebuilt anyway.

The way I see it, there's nothing inherently wrong with the design from the factory. The only thing I can see being a problem is that since all the power for the whole car goes through that ammeter, it could get hot and start a fire if the connections got loose or dirty. I think it's only a...