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Update: I will take $4500, if anyone is interested. I have an ebay offer which is close, but I would rather sell it to a member, (and avoid ebay fees)

I have it up on eBay starting at 5000, if there’s anyone who is interested but would prefer that format for some reason

They are adhesive. I’ve thought a lot about removing them but I’m worried I’d take a chip of paint with.

1967 Chrysler Newport

Couple more photos. One of the spot above the rear skirt and a couple showing the lack of other rust

I’m considering selling my ‘67 Newport and to be right upfront the reason is because I think it has a loose timing chain. I’ve been chasing symptoms and fixing this and that and it’ll go away and come back. Bogs down on acceleration and feels like there may be a little surge at highway speeds...

Well I'm back to thinking it's the timing chain. I had changed out my warped air horn with a good one off a parts carb, dialed in the timing, tuned and adjusted. Points were gapped to spec. All was good, car was running smooth quiet and powerful like it should for a while. Then the other day...

I think I finally got rid of the issue! I did a couple things: For one, I discovered that the accelerator pump was too tight in it's bore, the spring could not press it down, and therefor I was getting no squirt of gas as I pulled away from stops. I stretched the spring a little to add more...

So I finally checked the distributor relative to the crank, and theres not much free play at all. I took it for a drive, its colder out here now, and it had none of its usual symptoms. So, I think timing is ruled out, that doesn't seem like something engine temp would impact. It seems to me like...

Well, some years ago, I can try to look in it with a flashlight. But the fuel flow at the carb is great, there’s no sign of any obstruction or resistance

Sounds like we’ve narrowed down to the root of the problem then! I’ll do that little test, and hopefully that’s it! Not too hard a job, I’ve done one on a Ford at least, and the sets are relatively inexpensive for the 383 from what I’ve seen. Thank you guys for the help! I’ll make sure to report...

Thank you! That’s a lot of great info. When I set my timing it was to the prescribed 12.5, and earlier today when I checked it was about -3 so that’s about one spark plugs worth. I actually have a spare Holley but unfortunately the bolt holes don’t quite line up. It’s an 80s spec for a 318.

Checked and the timing has Not moved so the carb is the main culprit

Ok so after being almost gone earlier the symptoms came completely back pretty suddenly. So I’m thinking a new timing set and a new carb.

Is this an interference engine? And if the timing chain has jumped a tooth then the valve timing would be off right? And no adjusting will fix that

Ok so the gasket was not getting crushed around the port for that piston so I added a bit of another gasket I had, and cut the thickness in half with a razor, to build up the area a little, but not too much. I also cleaned out the venturis. Then I checked the timing and found it was off. It was...

I think you may have hit on the issue, I always tighten my air cleaner wing nut, kinda a lot. I’ll check for that first, and then if it does appear to be sealing I’ll srop doing that, and move to taking out the venturis and using the twist drill. I’m not looking for a pissing contest, I’m...

I’m just not sure why it would be lean. I cleaned the carb very well before I reasseembled. Every orofoce was clear. And it’s still clean inside. It’s definitley running rich, if you give it a shot of gas it’ll backfire in the exhaust. I’m suspicious of the power bypass valve, my kit didn’t come...

After a little more driving I’m going to say it’s actually notable worse after those adjustments

Yes I figured out if I shut it and start the car it pops to the open position so that’s good. Could be better but not stuck shut. More update soon and troubleshooting: I lowered the float level a little, changed the fuel filter, and the air filter it was looking dirty. No effect, still running...