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C2C is the only place you can buy these, to my knowledge, and they are far from perfect. I used their driver-side floor plan in a 68 and though it was better than starting with a flat piece of sheet metal, it took effort to make it fit and it doesn't look perfect. But since it's hidden under...

Search at this place. Lot of useful stuff here McMaster-Carr

I'd lean towards the carb tuning or a vacuum leak. Would you say that your pedal position is just barely cracked? Maybe it's oscillating between transition points (not sure if I'm saying that right). I could also be full of poop. Just trying to throw some ideas out there.

I went to many DD's as a child in the 80's and always rooted for the Chryslers. From what I saw, the late 60's Chryslers usually didn't do too well. I seem to remember them stalling out a lot and become sitting ducks. The rear ends also usually got bent straight up like a turkey tail. The...

Thanks all. I'm going to leave them in and mask around them.

Does anyone know if these can be gently pried out without access to the rear of the fender or are they attached with nuts? I looked through the service manual but couldn't find any reference to removing emblems, though most of the other emblems I've removed are held in with nuts so I'm thinking...

Yes, all things considered it is quite reasonable. Were your results on the 73 Polara satisfactory?

I am now researching a different course of action. Now I'm looking into using base from TCPGlobal and the SPI products for the primers, sealer, and clear.

So I take it you don't think the Shopline is going to give a good result? Do you know this from experience with the product or just a general sense that it's cheap so it probably isn't very good. I won't say I don't have my concerns, since I know from experience you get what you pay for. This...

So I'm actually only now getting ready to buy my paint. I've been educating myself and am getting pretty good at talking the talk so went to the local Colors store which sells PPG products. I was hoping to get the basecoat in their Shopline Plus line, which I've read is quite good but still...

When you say "under hood", do you mean the whole engine bay or just the underside of the hood?

I've read how metallic can be challenging and I have no expectations that I'm going to end up with a show-quality paintjob. But I am hoping for driver quality. I think I'm definitely decided on base/clear because of your suggestions.

I'm planning to use PPG as I can get it locally at a COLORS store. And yes, I'm preparing myself for a shock when I get the price quote. I already priced some out at an online source and the bronze was considerably more expensive than the solid colors. I already painted my Cub Cadet hood and...

Can anyone chime in on your experiences of how much paint it takes to do a late 60's C-body? This one's a convertible and I don't think I'll be spraying the underside of the trunk or hood. The color will be turbine bronze and I'm strongly leaning towards base/clear vs. single stage. I don't...

You too. I just wish that Dwayne had been there with his gold 68 too, it would've been epic! Best of luck with your 300! I'm glad to see younger fellows take an interest in these cars. I don't know if we'll be going in 2025. We've gone the last 5 years so thinking it might be time to...

Cool! We'll be there too with our gold 68 in the non-letter 300 section. There's another fella also with a gold 68 that sometimes comes.

Thanks for the dyno plots, they are very insightful. Though it says they are approximations. I wonder how they come up with them?

I have two newer cars that have the instantaneous mileage readouts. While they are not necessarily accurate in an absolute sense, they do give me a good idea of what helps and hurts MPG. For instance, I live in hilly northeastern PA and on my Toyota Highlander V6 I average 20~21mpg in...

I have a feeling that the RPM where it peaks has just as much to do with it as the difference of 15 ft-lbs.

Heheh, that's the kind of answer I'm looking for ;)