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For the last 9 years the only 4 wheeled vehicle I owned and drove was my 1971 300 (Alvah). I have deeply loved that car. But having a 50+ year old car as a daily has drawbacks! This last summer I reached my limit. I enjoyed driving the car, but this time it was the second round of ignition...

I did the FirmFeel kit, full poly. I have been worried that the poly was a mistake, but a few years later I have no problem with the ride and I haven't noticed squeaking. The advice that I followed that I believe helped was to liberally apply PTFE lubricant on the bushings.

FirmFeel sells leaf spring replacements. I suspect they are a reseller. Very pleased with mine.

I have a replacement engine wiring harness from Evans wiring, it has an extra female spade connector where the 12v ignition connects to the ballast resistor, conveniently located for my installation. It can be connected to any switched 12v.

My friend who was neighbors with the lady I bought my car from just had these stickers made of the original owner! The one and only Alvah, namesake for the car. She needs to come along for the ride with me! Wondering where to stick her?

Looks like the ECU was the problem all along. No more stalls!

I have now replaced the ECU. I am interested in the HEI conversion, but for now I just ordered a replacement box (the blue one) from Summit Racing. The car seems to run better than it has for a long time now, but then again it ran fine before except for the more than occasional failures...

I've got a very high quality multimeter, with a very low quality operator... I'm excellent at checking voltage, other than changing the dial to ohms, where do I measure the grounded resistance from?

Lots of good advice here. It may be a while before I get an opportunity to dig deep into this to find the solution. In the meantime I am driving the car, no stalls this morning... I did replace the original distributer for the Mopar electronic, I did this when I 1st bought the car 8 years ago...

The fuel is new, and the issue has persisted across multiple tanks purchased from different locations. The issue does not present itself when cold, it happens after warm up when the engine is running smoothly. The engine speed doesn't slow or stumble, it just shuts off. I wonder about the fuel...

'71 Chrysler 300. Generally runs great, however I'm having common intermittent stalling. No sputtering, the engine just stops. This started happening after I changed the carb to an AVS2 with electric choke. Not sure if the electric load of the choke is enough to cause ignition issues? I wired...

Just ordered a NOS switch from Murray Park. It looks like an alternative would be to buy a switch for a GM column and rewire the connector.

Did you ever find the correct one? I'm in the process of trying to find a replacement switch and curious how you were able to resolve this.

Hey, I'm going through this same struggle now. Question, once you unbolt the switch from the column does the switch just pull off of the actuator rod? I'm afraid to attempt this too vigorously.

Regarding FirmFeel, they are a manufacturer for a lot of there own parts. I've been to there shop in Vancouver Wa, they're good folks who make quality items. I've been pleased with what I got from them. Here was my experience Pulling the trigger on Firm Feel suspension! I do, however, agree...

I have poly bushings from Firmfeel on my '71 C Body. '65-'73 C-Body Suspension Kit - HP Urethane

Firm Feel has upgrades for the LCA, including a greaseable pivot shaft and stiffening plates that you can weld on yourself or have them install. CONTROL ARMS

I had one of those on my Jeep back in '98/early 2000s. I didn't like how it would cause the Jeep to pitch differently in corners going on or off the throttle. Could have been the short wheelbase. I don't know that I would use one again. Really good traction, though!

Call Dr Diff. I found them (Cass? can't remember) super knowledgeable and helpful. He knew what I needed, and helped me verify it was correct before ordering.

Here's how the water stays out. The lowest portion of the cowl has this little rubber flapper valve (red arrow) that lets water drain out (normally), the air inlet for the cowl vents is above this, so water should all drain out and not get into the vents. When the drain gets clogged, water...