EDELBROCK AVS2
- Thread starter polarus
- Start date
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
It's brand new. Same as regular AVS thunder series except it has annular boosters to help with transition from idle to solidly onto the main circuit.
JJ300
Active Member
I'm planning to get one to put on my car. Looked at quite a few options, I like this one. Probably in April.
Check to see if they're still on sale at Summit Racing. I got mine at $337.00, for future use. To me, although we've lived with normal venturis for ages, anything which makes a more vaporized fuel/air mixture (going into the manifold) has to be an improvement in power and efficiency.
When Holley added the annular discharge primary venturis to one of their carbs, seems like the engines gained about 20 horsepower? Seems like it was on the 750cfm double-pumper?
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
When Holley added the annular discharge primary venturis to one of their carbs, seems like the engines gained about 20 horsepower? Seems like it was on the 750cfm double-pumper?
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
I have both the 1406 and the 1806 on cars and I really like how responsive the 1806 AVS is so I am looking forward to hearing your review of the new AVS2
Factory Holley carbs were always better off the line than an AVS, as long as they weren't warped. With an improvement in the AVS as Dave described, I would be interested in that carburetor. But I am still not seeing a bowl vent on this AVS2 either - why can't they get it really right and include that at least as an option. In hot weather, they really help minimize prolonged hot starts. They apparently fixed one gripe I had with the AVS series in general, why not the other one! 
Edelbrock AVS2 Series™ Carburetors 1906
Edelbrock AVS2 Series™ Carburetors 1906
Back "then", the bowl vent was suspected to be needed to properly vent the float bowl in ANY weather, when the bowl was already vented into the area inside the air cleaner "ring", usually. On Holleys, especially on the primary side. AND, the bowl vent closed as the throttle was opened.
On Holley 4bbls, the basic casting for the bowl vent was still there, if not machined, in the earlier '70s, when the bowl was then vented into the carbon canister. It was deleted due to further control of evap emissions. In the middle '80s, the 318s (as did many Chevy V-8s) had an additional flap in the air cleaner to keep any evap emissions INSIDE the air cleaner when the engine was stopped. "Absorbed" by the normal carbon canister AND the one located in the air cleaner body, just inside of the air filter element.
In the later '60s and such, I did many considerations of why Chryslers tended to have a "hot soak" start issue in the hot summer months, but found they were doing nothing different than Ford or GM was doing with their carbs or engines, that I could determine conclusively. ALL had external bowl vents that were open at idle.
GM had their aluminum-sheet "heat shields" for the 4bbl carbs. They just shielded the carb from heat radiated upward from the intake manifold. If that temp also affected ambient temps around the car, they just delayed the heating of the carb's float bowl fuel. The ONE thing which Chryslers usually had was open air around the carb, as Ford and some GMs tended to later hide the carb from air flow around the carb. The Rochester Q-Jet had a small float bowl, so if it fuel percolation losses, it'd refill quickly. VERY small compared to other carbs of that time.
GM's observed issues were with the starters getting hot from nearby heat sources, affecting the starter solenoids, which generated a variety of heat shields for the starter solenoids. In some cases on the motorhome chassis vehicles, a TSB for conversion to a Ford-style solenoid set-up was issued. I think I'd rather have an extended crank time rather than a starter that wouldn't engage.
FEW engines started quickly back then, although there were some that did, although it seems that some were worse than others. Still, storied of engines that started "with a touch of the key".
SO, best "fix" was to follow the Chrysler-advised starting technique of "1/3 throttle" accel pedal position during starts. IF there was a fuel percolation issue, or an accumulation of fuel vapor in the carb throttle bores, that'd clear it out sooner than if trying to start the engine with a closed throttle situation. The other thing was to make sure the battery, ignition, and charging systems was in good condition and the spark plugs were gapped at .035-0.040".
Some of the Holley 4160s and other 4bbls of the l60s era had a "hot idle compensator" to add a little air into the throttle bore to prevent an over-rich idle situation. I had a Holley with one on my '67 Newport (in the middle '80s). I adjusted the bi-metal spring to keep it closed or slightly open, with no difference in performance. Might have been that it wasn't hot enough to really need it?
Whether Carter AFB (OEM), Holley 4160, or TQuad, they all seemed to start the same for me on the '67 Newport 383. Even as our fuels migrated more toward E10, or before. But to me, the extended crank time was a real non-issue from what we had on the '66 Newport 383 2bbl (when it was a year old and later). Use the throttle position during cranking that makes the engine start the quickest, which should be done no matter whose engine or carb it is--period. Once I stopped (somewhat) obsessing with it, it became more of a "normal deal" to me. A seeming quirk of owning/driving a Chrysler. As always, I trust Chrysler engineering more than I do Ford and especially GM. In ANY event, some things aren't worth "fighting" so you learn to best live with them as best you can!
ALL of this was taking place in N TX, where the summers were usually 90+ degrees F for weeks on end. And in a time when ethanol was used sparingly for an octane enhancer rather than an oxygenate in the fuel recipe.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
On Holley 4bbls, the basic casting for the bowl vent was still there, if not machined, in the earlier '70s, when the bowl was then vented into the carbon canister. It was deleted due to further control of evap emissions. In the middle '80s, the 318s (as did many Chevy V-8s) had an additional flap in the air cleaner to keep any evap emissions INSIDE the air cleaner when the engine was stopped. "Absorbed" by the normal carbon canister AND the one located in the air cleaner body, just inside of the air filter element.
In the later '60s and such, I did many considerations of why Chryslers tended to have a "hot soak" start issue in the hot summer months, but found they were doing nothing different than Ford or GM was doing with their carbs or engines, that I could determine conclusively. ALL had external bowl vents that were open at idle.
GM had their aluminum-sheet "heat shields" for the 4bbl carbs. They just shielded the carb from heat radiated upward from the intake manifold. If that temp also affected ambient temps around the car, they just delayed the heating of the carb's float bowl fuel. The ONE thing which Chryslers usually had was open air around the carb, as Ford and some GMs tended to later hide the carb from air flow around the carb. The Rochester Q-Jet had a small float bowl, so if it fuel percolation losses, it'd refill quickly. VERY small compared to other carbs of that time.
GM's observed issues were with the starters getting hot from nearby heat sources, affecting the starter solenoids, which generated a variety of heat shields for the starter solenoids. In some cases on the motorhome chassis vehicles, a TSB for conversion to a Ford-style solenoid set-up was issued. I think I'd rather have an extended crank time rather than a starter that wouldn't engage.
FEW engines started quickly back then, although there were some that did, although it seems that some were worse than others. Still, storied of engines that started "with a touch of the key".
SO, best "fix" was to follow the Chrysler-advised starting technique of "1/3 throttle" accel pedal position during starts. IF there was a fuel percolation issue, or an accumulation of fuel vapor in the carb throttle bores, that'd clear it out sooner than if trying to start the engine with a closed throttle situation. The other thing was to make sure the battery, ignition, and charging systems was in good condition and the spark plugs were gapped at .035-0.040".
Some of the Holley 4160s and other 4bbls of the l60s era had a "hot idle compensator" to add a little air into the throttle bore to prevent an over-rich idle situation. I had a Holley with one on my '67 Newport (in the middle '80s). I adjusted the bi-metal spring to keep it closed or slightly open, with no difference in performance. Might have been that it wasn't hot enough to really need it?
Whether Carter AFB (OEM), Holley 4160, or TQuad, they all seemed to start the same for me on the '67 Newport 383. Even as our fuels migrated more toward E10, or before. But to me, the extended crank time was a real non-issue from what we had on the '66 Newport 383 2bbl (when it was a year old and later). Use the throttle position during cranking that makes the engine start the quickest, which should be done no matter whose engine or carb it is--period. Once I stopped (somewhat) obsessing with it, it became more of a "normal deal" to me. A seeming quirk of owning/driving a Chrysler. As always, I trust Chrysler engineering more than I do Ford and especially GM. In ANY event, some things aren't worth "fighting" so you learn to best live with them as best you can!
ALL of this was taking place in N TX, where the summers were usually 90+ degrees F for weeks on end. And in a time when ethanol was used sparingly for an octane enhancer rather than an oxygenate in the fuel recipe.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Same everything just the cluster is different with holes all around the booster instead of a couple of holes dribbling fuel out. Seems they are learning from these new fuel injection systems what is working with new fuels.
Steve they have bowl vents, they are cast right into the towers for the power pistons. You are not going to get a vent that is outside the air cleaner because nobody is plumbing a charcoal canister into their old car and venting it to the atmosphere outside the air cleaner is risky and possibly dangerous if car is driven extremely hard.
70NEWYORKER
Well-Known Member
Anyone know if those new clusters would fit in an original AVS? Hard to tell from pics but they look really close....
Yes, these new cluster fit the original AVS 650 and the 600 performance serie 1405 & 1406.
Just got mine AVS2 650 and a long story - short:
Didn't manage to tune it rich enough @ cruise or power (using O2 sensor) no matter how much I jetted up or how thin needle I tried, > 15 AFR
WOT was ok.
Ended up taking the cluster from an 1405 to put on the AVS2 (thats why I know it fits) and then I manage to tune it perfect.
Going to dig deep in why the cluster restrict the fuel flow...
Just got mine AVS2 650 and a long story - short:
Didn't manage to tune it rich enough @ cruise or power (using O2 sensor) no matter how much I jetted up or how thin needle I tried, > 15 AFR
WOT was ok.
Ended up taking the cluster from an 1405 to put on the AVS2 (thats why I know it fits) and then I manage to tune it perfect.
Going to dig deep in why the cluster restrict the fuel flow...
JJ300
Active Member
Just put mine on the car Friday. 69 300, 440, stock. great right out of the box. I have adjusted idles so far, but nothing else. NO hesitation off the line. Fits under stock air cleaner with the electric choke. Gonna put some miles on it and check my plugs, but so far so good!!
Well the AVS 2 800 cfm is one of my top candidates for my my 440 stroker engine. I like the annular primary's for throttle response while putting around. Haven't heard any reports about the the 800 cfm though.
Love it! Put it on my 76 Monaco 400 works excellent. Gonna put one on my 79 300 very soon!
Where do you connect the electric choke to?
1971 300 Alvah
Member
I have a replacement engine wiring harness from Evans wiring, it has an extra female spade connector where the 12v ignition connects to the ballast resistor, conveniently located for my installation. It can be connected to any switched 12v.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
I believe you have a lean burn car?
There is a choke heater wire on the intake/passenger side connects to original divorced choke well. Just use that.
Would that have a ground too? What about the open space where the manual choke use to be do I need to block that off?
I have my choke hooked to the feed side of the ballast as well. It seems to work just fine. No reason to cover the choke well hole in the intake. It's just a cavity.
As was mentioned above I ran the electric choke feed from the run side of the ballast to the carb choke. The old thermostat well is left open.
Similar threads
