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I did forget about the current state of our monopoly money, but at the same time their prices have mostly remained constant even before the dollar really went down. I missed out in 2010-11 when the AUD was worth 1.10 USD...what a time to be buying stuff from the US.

How were they in their heyday? I've perused their site before, but this is my first ever time buying from them, and looking at the prices of the stuff they sell...to be frank it's a ripoff. I've always just looked up parts on their site, then just going to rockauto to see how much cheaper it is...

Posting this because facebook groups suck for information retention and searchability, this thread should hopefully show up when the google spider does its thing. Mainly for aussie 65-68 dodge phoenix owners although it might apply to other years too. As you guys are probably aware, the inner...

I know the other guys have already answered your question, but that sleeve definitely doesn't fit on the KYBs. Tried it when I removed my shocks the other day. Pretty sure they were still the original Monroes from when the car was made too.

heh, this almost sounds like some arcane ritual intended to summon a vehicular antichrist thanks guys. Will press them out if I can bring the hub to work, otherwise I'm gonna pretend I'm Jeremy Clarkson and HAMMER.

any 4 bbl intake? I went with a knockoff weiand 8008. Seems to work well enough, although I had to dremel a small amount from the bolt hole where the throttle return spring bracket mounts, in order for it to sit more flat. I do really like how much lighter the aluminium intake is compared to the...

love seeing old barges being thrown around

oooh right. took off the front ones and had those stuck in my head. So the rears can be removed with a hammer?

Couldn't find anything in the FSM about removing wheel studs from drums...could find the procedure about disc brakes though. Is it possible to remove just the wheel studs from the rear left drum and press/hammer in new ones? I do not care for left-hand threads and want to replace them with...

Been tackling this bit by bit, day by day. Will be documenting info that will hopefully be of use to anyone in the future that stumbles across my posts. Strut rods finally came out, I took off the front nuts first before tackling the rears, fronts needed a 24mm socket, while the rears needed a...

I'm fully aware of the squeaking and vibration transmission that poly bushings have, which is why I only wanted to use them where the sway bar bolts to the strut rod. Although that might also be a bad spot to put them, so I'm happy to settle with just replacing the square bushings where the sway...

Woohoo, it's been frigging hot so I've settled for just chipping away at this entire thing bit by bit each day. Slowly but surely. Completely loosened the adjusters and I was able to lift the upper arm to have plenty of room to take out the bump stops. Left one had some cracking but was still...

Are you talking about the adjusting nut? Or where the torsion bar actually goes through it? Maybe I'm missing something but the only attaching points are where the torsion bar sits, and where it connects to the spindle. Never mind - saw a video and there's a nut and stud on the inboard side of...

Not really concerned about the turning circle, it's a boat after all...comes with the territory. But great food for thought in the rest of your post

Oh yeah I definitely made sure that the stands were on the frame and not the suspension. I blasted the **** out of ALL threads with the pressure washer on the laser setting. Very clean and ripe for an overnight soaking with some ATF which works really well as a penetrant...50/50 acetone/ATF mix...

Firm Feel doesn't have a way to increase the steering ratio with an existing box do they? Unfortunately for me the RHD cars have mounting holes that don't line up with the LHD steering boxes, so something like a Borgeson box is out of the question. Was hoping to have a faster ratio and tighter...

Thanks, I did pore over the FSM to see if there was anything I missed. I just wasn't sure if there was something else that people experience during this procedure that the FSM doesn't mention etc. I do know that poly will transfer more vibration, which was why I only wanted it for the sway bar...

Alrighty, going to try to tackle this one. Practically everything that's rubber and mounted to the stub frame in some way are shot. Main questions I have are, does anyone make poly bushings for the sway bar-strut rod connecting brackets? I'm not going to install poly anywhere else, except maybe...

Is there a way to tell which bushing you need without having to take the leaf off the vehicle?

A slightly bent, long screwdriver is surprisingly useful. I remember finding one on top of a cupboard in a house, it's helped me quite a bit in my wrenching adventures. I'm sure for those here that are married, their other half will also know the benefits of a slightly bent, long screwdriver...