Sanden conversion or RV2 Rebuild?

[SeaFuse]

Have a 72 small block Fury with original but partially removed RV2 system. Condenser and Evaporator in good shape. Compressor and clutch no good. What's people's options on rebuilding the RV2 system or converting to Sanden? Personally, most classic cars I've been in with the popular SD508 compressor seem marginally cooled at best. I'd want to look into a larger compressor (which means new mounting most likely), larger condenser but not sure much can be done with evaporator in stock location. The RV2 on 134 has always impressed me - my Imperial was like a meat locker with it in the hot summer. Guy below on eBay seems to be reputable rebuilder. Thoughts?

Security Measure | eBay

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I like my rebuilt RV2 compressors, but others like the Sanden. Sanden is certainly more available these days...

 

[marko]

i havent found any place here to rebuild mine or even get a seal kit so im prob going to get a sanden set up

 

[3175375]

You can go several ways. Rebuild it, replace it with an R-12 Sanden compressor or with an R-134a compressor. Lots of pluses and minuses for each.

 

[Unix]

Have a 72 small block Fury with original but partially removed RV2 system. Condenser and Evaporator in good shape. Compressor and clutch no good. What's people's options on rebuilding the RV2 system or converting to Sanden? Personally, most classic cars I've been in with the popular SD508 compressor seem marginally cooled at best. I'd want to look into a larger compressor (which means new mounting most likely), larger condenser but not sure much can be done with evaporator in stock location. The RV2 on 134 has always impressed me - my Imperial was like a meat locker with it in the hot summer. Guy below on eBay seems to be reputable rebuilder. Thoughts?

Security Measure | eBay

i bought my rebuilt RV2 from this guy. The AC is running perfectly and blowing COLD (on 134 conversion) for 4 years now. Had no problems whatsoever, and no leaks. The system is holding charge, and no refill required as of yet. I paid 380 usd incl tax & shipping.

I have a 71 Newport 2dr 383 auto.

 

[3175375]

i bought my rebuilt RV2 from this guy. The AC is running perfectly and blowing COLD (on 134 conversion) for 4 years now. Had no problems whatsoever, and no leaks. The system is holding charge, and no refill required as of yet. I paid 380 usd incl tax & shipping.

I have a 71 Newport 2dr 383 auto.

You didn’t provide a link or website for the source that you used.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

It was in the quote:

billbt123 on eBay

 

[73Coupe]

Classic Air may have something to help:

Classic Auto Air - Air Conditioning for 70’s & Older Cars & Trucks

 

[edbods]

Personally, most classic cars I've been in with the popular SD508 compressor seem marginally cooled at best

wonder if it's because they're using r134a. fill it up with hc-12a and i bet you it'll be way cooler.

 

[CBODY67]

There are MANY Sanden a/c compressors other than the popular one/size. Look at the Sanden website for information on them. Even many "backs" for the compressors, including a "GM back" where the lines come out horizontally. So, MANY more options than just what vendors usually sell!

The Sanden will take less power to run than an RV-2, if that matters. Like 2mpg loss with the non-cycling RV-2 compared to no factory a/c. The Sanden is also lighter!

With R-134a, cooling performance can be related to air flow through the condenser. A "mass-flow" condenser is also recommended to replace the "serpentine" condenser. Charge levels are more sensitive to "too much gas" with R-134a, too.

Typically, the RV-2 is a 10cid compressor, as the GM A-6 is. The Sanden is smaller, but has a smaller pulley/clutch on it (so it runs faster). Seems like there is a Sanden approx 10cid compressor? Reason to check the Sanden website for the multitude of information there. A "whole 'nuther world", there.

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67

 

[darth_linux]

I'm part way through converting my RV-2 to a Sanden style AC system. I've made 2 videos detailing my progress so far. Not sure if they would be helpful or not, but you might check them out to glean a little insight on the process. The plan for Spring of '26 is to clean out the evaporator, check that it holds vacuum and then get it charged with r134. All in I'm close to $1000.

#1 -
#2

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Whatever system is retrofitted into our C bodies, whether it be a Sanden and such, OR outfitting an RV2 system to run on modern refridgerants, the key is not to overcharge the system.

For a converted RV2 system for which it's intended to use R134A, the system needs roughly 50 - 60 % of the original R12 charge weight. Any more and the cooling efficiency is greatly reduced.

The recommended charging procedure for ANY of our C body AC systems is to put a thermometer in the vents on the dash, and watch as you charge. Add about 50% and go up from there gradually - watch the temps, and when they bottom out and start to rise, that's it. Suck a tad of charge out and button it up.

My cars first started with R134A back in the 90s here in Canada, when R12 was a pain in the butt and expensive to use, and all the AC places wouldn't touch the old cars.

I learned the above procedures from some greybeard AC guys, and it's worked wonderfully.

I get meatlocker performance all the time. Yes, that's 28 degrees sitting in the driveway...

 

[3175375]

Whatever system is retrofitted into our C bodies, whether it be a Sanden and such, OR outfitting an RV2 system to run on modern refridgerants, the key is not to overcharge the system.

For a converted RV2 system for which it's intended to use R134A, the system needs roughly 50 - 60 % of the original R12 charge weight. Any more and the cooling efficiency is greatly reduced.

The recommended charging procedure for ANY of our C body AC systems is to put a thermometer in the vents on the dash, and watch as you charge. Add about 50% and go up from there gradually - watch the temps, and when they bottom out and start to rise, that's it. Suck a tad of charge out and button it up.

My cars first started with R134A back in the 90s here in Canada, when R12 was a pain in the butt and expensive to use, and all the AC places wouldn't touch the old cars.

I learned the above procedures from some greybeard AC guys, and it's worked wonderfully.

I get meatlocker performance all the time. Yes, that's 28 degrees sitting in the driveway...

View attachment 746310

R-134a charge is best to be done using register temps and high and low side pressures. Your description is good. R-134a has a very narrow hysteresis or ‘sweet spot’. Too much or little and performance degrades quickly.

 

[edbods]

For a converted RV2 system for which it's intended to use R134A, the system needs roughly 50 - 60 % of the original R12 charge weight. Any more and the cooling efficiency is greatly reduced

Wait what? I thought going R12 > R134a is 80% of the R12 charge weight. It will never be as good as the R12 though which is why I'm a sucker for HC12. From personal experience it's just as good as, if not better than R12, and your HVAC system will last much longer because it runs at lower pressures too. Shame that the government says you're not allowed to do it over there though, but since when has that stopped people.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

80% of charge weight may be what works in some systems, but as far as I know it generally is less - as I noted above.

Haven't tried HC12 yet.

 

[edbods]

interesting. Wherever I look it seems to be 75-85% charge for an R134a retrofit.
HC12/HC12a (really just a marketing name) is just a mix of typically 60% propane (R290) and 40% isobutane (R600a). The isobutane lowers the head pressures. For an R12 system you only need 50% of the original charge weight. For factory R134a systems it's 30%. I think the only drawback with it is that you can't really fill it by pressure because the pressure curve of R12 is different to HC12.
I think it goes without saying, but just in case anyone that stumbles across this thread gets any ideas...don't put straight bbq gas in your AC system. Not only does straight propane run at much, much higher pressures than R12 or R134a systems, but the contaminants in a regular propane tank will wreck things down the line. Get the refrigerant grade stuff.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Ah - kind of like the refrigerant known as Duracool. I find it works very well.And I use less of it than R134A charging. Far cheaper too.

 

[edbods]

Yeah that's the one. I think they're all just different brands for the same thing. It never gets old seeing people's reactions when they notice how freezing the AC is and what I filled it up with. Once had my dad riding shotgun on a 100F day and he turned off the AC after 10 mins because it got uncomfortably cold for him lol.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Nice!!