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Ahh ok. Yeah just wondering how it holds up being so close to the exhaust logs.

Late reply? that was rather quick lol. Especially for a forum. Did you use nylon to print them?

@angus66 reviving this thread to ask angus, how are the 3D printed grommets holding up to the exhaust heat?

Neat info on testing them. I know the FBO boxes explicitly say that their ECUs cannot be tested as it may cause permanent damage to the components...but a part of me wonders if that's just to protect intellectual property or trade secret sort of things, basically, I'm wondering if it's possible...

Almost forgot to add to this - if you have an electric choke and can route the feed wire through the firewall, the IVR3 gives you an extra spade connection to hook it up to (or anything else that would need 12v switched power without drawing too much current) - plug it on the same terminal where...

Yessssssss, it's just the temp sender! Pulled the spade connector, sat it against the distributor body, turned the ignition to on, and the gauge shot right up. Thanks yet again everyone!

Oooh that makes things clearer, thanks heaps! I think I can find those at our local electronics shops

That is true, but as 3175375 says, the bigger problem I have is the fact that we rely heavily on selling our resources abroad to keep our economy afloat, instead of building up a manufacturing base. At least with the Japanese cars there are American workers being paid to assemble them. It was...

Thanks guys, and thanks again @Davea Lux I'll try those tests. Didn't even think to test with the multimeter like that. Electrical work isn't any stranger to me, but too many times I forget the basics.

Oops. It's a 67 Phoenix/67 Fury with the 383 engine. But the temp sender looks like a 66 and earlier model, takes a female spade connector. Hooks up to a 66 Polara/Monaco gauge. @Big_John thanks for that. Gonna see if there's a local version since shipping will kill me for such a cheap tester...

Oh man the fuel line...if you managed to see it in person, you'd probably notice a kink in the bend under the ignition coil. There's also another kink hidden under the hose connecting it to the fuel inlet. I kinda want to re-do it...but at the same time, it works fine so...yea I'm still a bit...

I finally got my car fired up and man it's a great feeling getting it running again. But unfortunately, I noticed that my temp gauge barely moves from stone cold even though the engine is scalding hot. The fuel gauge works fine, which implies something wrong along the sender circuit. Is there...

Nice, it almost looks like a milk bottle haha. The mounting hole I mentioned in the first post wasn't from the factory - it was from whoever installed the washer bottle. I just enlarged it with a step drill then went from there.

At least you guys still make cars. We still have to pay a "luxury car tax" for vehicles above a certain price to protect a car industry that no longer exists

Wahoo, everything is installed! Was very nervous because I had to crank it for about 30 secs before fuel started going into the carby, but it roared to life. Adjusted timing to 8° BTDC as per the instructions that came with Rick's electronic distributor, still ran like ***, so I tweaked the...

Lol. These guys were clearly 30 years ahead of their time. Apparently it was a conglomerate, merged from Electricity Meter Manufacturing Co Pty Ltd, and New System Telephones Pty Ltd. The name was an acronym of Electricity Meter & Allied Industries Ltd. Apparently they were big enough that at...

I had to remove the alternator anyway as part of my 2 bbl to 4 bbl swap I've been doing over the past week or two. Remembered your post and got a photo of the label. Definitely a local copy:

Actually, thinking about this some more...you might be able to get away with it. I was worried that the vertical rod with the little ball socket might be too off axis, but as long as it doesn't rub against anything too hard, it should be right. I just don't know how much length it has or whether...

Ahh ok. Damn. Cost cutting and "line must go up" strikes again...

Does the boots being flat actually have any impact? Never taken a drum brake apart before but I thought that the metal rods that go in the center holes would be what's pushing against the brake shoes