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If the engine needs rebuilt, doesn't all the suspension parts need to be addressed as well? Besides, my first post wasn't much different than what others posted. But if the engine has issues, surely the suspension does too. Just saying!

You're right, remove the entire sub frame! Makes it even easier!

Really, the best way is to remove the engine, k-frame, and transmission assembled together from underneath the car by jacking up the body! That's how the factory assembled it! Much easier than you'd think!

Just make sure you remove the radiator (and AC condenser) first before hoisting the engine as you will need to move the engine forward a couple inches so the flex plate will clear the transmission bell housing. To support the transmission, you can use a close hanger dowel (about 1.5" in...

I took love the Thermoquad. Just rebuilt a 74 440 last Sunday!

I love Thermoquads as well! Especially the sound of the secondaries opening up!

That's to run a roller camshaft!

When in doubt have a machine shop measure and bush any over sized holes! A good machine shop won't charge too much to do this. By the way, any big block Mopar should have every lifter bore bushed to be effective. Just my opinion.

Been trying to figure out what to do with regards to the radiator. So today, I decided what the heck and turned it upside down and back flushed it with water. Turned out cleaner than I thought after an hour or so of flushing with cold water (wouldn't want to drink it still). So going to install...

Carter never rated very many carburators for CFM. Attached is a link to try and determine CFM. Reality wise, figure a street (non race) engine will see 5500 rpm. The crude formula for a non race engine is 2x the cubic inches minus 100. That's about 530 CFM for a 318. The actual formula is cubic...

I just ordered some turquoise paint from Mancini (their brand). $14.33 a can when purchased as a six pack. Once it gets here, I post some pictures of an intake manifold I'm cleaning up and put some original turquoise valve covers side by side to compare.

Got the new fuel tank and sending unit installed into the Imperial today. I cleaned the bottom side of the trunk and painted it with self etching primer, black paint and under coating. Old tank is probably still good, just needs a good cleaning.

Keep in mind that the Mopar factory electronic ignition requires one wire to the "Run" side of the ballast resistor. Everything can be "hidden" if necessary. Mopar or no car!!

Too new to have posted with him on this site. But the great thing is as long as you remember him, he still lingers on. Condolences to his family and friends. Sounds like a great guy. My best friend and brother Bob past away a few years ago and he still thumps me on the head and reminds me to...

Thermoquads can be tricky to dial in, but I learned from a guy who super tuned CHP carbs and had Chrysler engineers come out and document what he was doing, so I love the Thermoquad. And believe it or not, I gave input to Federal Mogal (Edelbrock carbs now) years ago about bringing back the AVS!

dodge73dart, what Mopars do you have?

I definitely see both sides on this particular post. Maybe we need a "What is it worth" forum to discuss something like this? Only 7204 71 300 2 doors made, and with a 440 has to be rarer than a 383. I still vote for making a driver out of if if the parts are cheap enough. But I understand...

Yes, for a 360.

I've noticed (not mine cars) a lot of the Mopars I've worked on are missing the engine to firewall ground wire and sometimes the ground wire from the negative battery terminal to radiator yoke. And these are the Mopars that have ignition and light problems. Hmmm...

I haven't driven it yet! I got it running and then tore into it because some previous owner dumped some kind of coolant leak fixing goo that plugged up the radiator, thermostat and housing. Plus all the rubber hoses were rotted. And the fuel pump wasn't. So new fuel system going in as well...