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@DocMcNeedy @3175375 @amazinblue82 Here’s Betsy, my dark cherry 1996 RMW. I acquired her just 3 years ago from New England and have traced her history. I’ve put almost 20k miles on the car since then. She has visited 18 states, DC, and Ontario (Canada). @david hill helped me bring her back to a...

Did you tie the crank and run wires together? If you don't get full battery voltage while cranking, You won't have spark to start. Jumper the + side of the ballast to battery positive and see if it starts.

N.O.S. 1972 Newport front grille inner right and left moulding Part number #3442799 & #3442800 Condition is very nice with one having small stuff $175 USD + shipping

Does that work for you?

hey @ayilar? ever seen one of these?:poke:

Please post the instructions that were sent Show us pics of the wiring Is the module properly grounded? Was it checked with an ohm meter? With the key "on" the voltage at the ballast resistor input should be the same as the measured battery voltage the output voltage of the ballast resistor...

from the Rockauto site...don't know if it means you actually get Timken or not

Ironically this new 440 I’m throwing in is from the Bronx, I always end up in NY somehow lol. Thanks for the heads up, I’ll shoot him a message

See post #45 from @Big_John ALWAYS start with the basics

The sector (pitman) shaft is where the pitman arm attaches. Common place to leak, box R&R is not necessary.

Happy Birthday @66fs @CbodyConvertible

I agree. Also check the engine block battery ground with an ANALOG meter, not digital. I had one time a bad/insuficient contact between the cable and engine bock not detected with the digital meter. The car started some times and sometimes didn´t. I did see a difference of 0.5-1V between battery...

At the moment the carb cheater has the auto tune function (the thing that actually adjusts extra incoming air) turned off so it's not adding extra air, only picking up readings from the engine. The way it's meant to be used is you first use it to tune your carb with better precision than hearing...

Back again with an update, during the whole spring and summer it ran great, no popping and better acceleration. Just like I thought when the cold weather came back (40s or less) so did the popping in the exhaust. I'm guessing that means it's either because I have no choke or no thermostat, but...

Just looked, they're there.

Apparently, the sticker is covering up a scratch in the paint, I'd rather look at the scratch than this sticker.

You'll have to have the correct exhaust manifold for your chassis. I had a '65 Sport Fury that came factory as a single exhaust. When I got a dual exhaust kit from Walker, it wouldn't fit mine. I had to round up a set for factory duals. The flanges are at different angles. If you can look at a...

You can try increasing the hot base idle speed to 600rpm if it makes the power steering pump happier. Not a big change, especially with a/c. Those quoted vacuum readings are really very good. Not "too high" at all, but what I'd term "normal". Is your "calibrated vacuum leak" supposed to...