Search results for query: *

its a 9 1/2...its kinda an apples and oranges deal....original budd style discs used 4 piston calipers, a larger diameter master for the extra volume and a dual diaphragm for the extra force to push it....the 71/73 single piston calipers used a smaller diameter master and it seems that you can...

not to overly complicate your search but I've been running a single diaphram Midland (drum) booster with discs for over 20 years

The back plate and pedal assembly are different...here you can see the 4 holes where the booster bolts on

the screws under the windshield gasket cannot be accessed with the windshield still in the car...they would only need to be removed if you wanted to remove the entire metal dashboard ...you don't need to do that if all you are replacing is the dash pad...I don't know if access is better or worse...

depending what you are putting them on the ones that come with lugs will probably all be right hand thread ....I think there are "correct style" lugs out there with a dimple on the top (PG performance?) if you care about that....Ford center caps probably have a different decal so check what they...

Stephens Performance has a Mopar salvage yard in Alabama...you may be able to source what you need there

idk if its available in your area but I like Permatex Ultra Copper silicone on manifold to head...very thin coat, don't let it dry, assemble wet...let it thoroughly set up like 24 hrs before starting...it will fill any minor imperfections and if it has nothing to fill it will just squeeze...

triangular tag on carb...6134s on top line, 3425 in lower, and a large 32 (twice the size of the other numbers) in the drivers side lower corner...car had some sort of green and white decal on middle of passenger fenderwell, there's only a 1/4 inch piece of it left...I assume it was the typical...

Here's the carb on my 68 fury wagon...idle screws face forward under float bowl...nothing was capped off...I'm the one who rebuilt it, swear it was original...when you said idles were plugged I assumed it was much newer

unfortunately the gasoline we buy today is not the gasoline that was available 50 years ago...in my experience it burns leaner, especially if it contains ethanol...and if it has a "non adjustable" carb that generally means it's from a year where they were trying to minimize emissions so it was...

your color looks a lot like Ford portofino blue...think it's a 94 color... a light metallic blue with a purple tint...I have a Chevy C10 I painted that color

if they're 3/8 bolts 30 is about right...if they're 5/16 more like 15...subject to how rusty they are

idk what law of physics is involved, but when a wire fries ,it starts at both ends and works its way to the middle...so pay attention to connectors as a source... poorly crimped connectors on your bypass could be the issue...these were the previous owners bulkhead repairs on my car...and I never...

yes...theoretically the "easy way" to pull the box (how it was done at the factory) would be to remove the entire dashboard...however, to do that ,the screws that hold the top of the dash to the cowl are buried under the windshield rubber...so the shield and rubber would have to come out...so...

ok, I have no idea what the proper finish was for a 60....my 68 had a suede finish and I got it from 877 4paint1...maybe he might know what's correct for your year

on your setup, the tubes on the firewall that your heater hoses attach to are a separate piece from the heater core and are sealed to it by O rings...there is also an ''h valve " in the box that bypasses part of the core when the a/c is on....this valve attaches to the core with 2 short rubber...

you need the HP smoke if you upgrade to a higher amp alternator

the non a/c heater core won't fit in the a/c heater box...and the job of pulling out the box is pretty awful...so removing it and putting in a non a/c box temporarily isn't something i'd be eager to do

68's would have an extra accent line through them and wouldn't work on a 67