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You already have a Chrysler factory electronic ignition on the car and electronic voltage regulator. EFI MIGHT get you to your desired drivability, if that is the only thing you are looking for. But some serious tweaking on the existing carb might do that too. FYI, the Holley 2210 2bbl is for...

FYI, my 1970 Monaco 383 "N" (383/330) car came with the 10.75" torque converter from the factory. Takes 1qt less atf (total) than a car with the larger (normal) torque converter, per Chrysler specs. In an old Chrysler Re-Manufactured Torque Converter listing, they showed the "Street HEMI"...

I would suggest you look for the Chrysler MasterTech program on front end alignment. It illustrated ONE great thing about Chrysler front end geometry that Ford and GM do not have. Camber change in the corners. At stock settings. In a left hand turn, for example, the outside wheel goes into...

It is my understanding the offset upper control arm bushings are to compensate for "sag" of the structure the upper control arms mount to. I first heard of this situation on big block Chevelles of the early 1970s, but later discovered such also happened with 1955 Chevies. So the offset...

In many cases of non-B/E-body Chrysler Corp parts, you might not find "a kit" as such, BUT you can find the individual pieces from the restoration vendors. After all, their real volume was first in the B/E-body cars, with C-body cars only coming into prominence more recently. So they went...

The added carbon would act like a heat insulator, especially with the OEM divorced choke. Heat would not get to the thermostat to let the choke open quick enough. Seemed to be more prevalent on LA engines (than B/RB engines) if the cars were only used in town and never got onto the highway...

Unless you put on a new aluminum intake, you might need to clean out the carbon in the existing heat crossover. With time, they CAN become restricted and not flow like they should. A clean passage can ensure the modified valley pan gasket does what you desire it to. Enjoy! CBODY67

I believe the fluid schematic in the FSM details the various gear selection positions and related line pressures. "P" is only running "lube pressure", as "N" runs "operating pressure".

I'm also suspecting it could be a hose. Are you using Chrysler power steering fluid or generic automatic trans fluid? I noticed the pressure hose on my '67 Newport seeping red atf. I refilled the reservoir with GM PSF (which looks like the old Chrysler PSF), and the seeping stopped...

Are the factory side air bags still intact, but unplugged?

So you are wanting part numbers so you can "build a kit"? A lot of your answers are in post #2, respectively. Those answers should send you into the online catalogs for Edelbrock, Air Flow Research, Trick Flow, and others with aftermarket aluminum heads so YOU know what is out there. Pistons...

It might be that when there is not a stamping on a Chrysler blank, then the shape of the head comes into play. Chrysler seemed to use the same blanks for a few model years, as to the head shape. There are some nuances to the GM key system, including "Valet Keys" and the cylinders they fit...

Our '66 Newport 383 2bbl had no issues idling at 550rpm with the a/c om in gear. Sometimes, I might end up at 575rpm, but the factory specs worked well on that car. but that engine had the OEM 252/252.390 cam in it. Last year for it. The 256/260 cam after that.

Yes, if you copy a worn key, you end up with worn key cut depths on a new key blank. Not the best situation. Even if it worked well.

The "head" of the key is not important (other than for possible cosmetic issues and model year use. What IS important is that stamped letter below the head, on the shank. That letter identified the groove pattern on the key. The grooves vary with different ID keys, as to specific placement...

I have had friends who blocked the heat riser passage (for hot rod performance orientations, usually). When I swapped engines to one with factory aluminum heads that were for an OEM EFI engine, THEN I noticed some things I had not noticed before. Had to tweak/re-calibrate the electric choke...

no need to get to anywhere close to 1000rpm on a reasonably stock engine, period. In the old repair manuals (when cams were milder than in the 1970s), the "aim" was 18" Hg at hot base idle. Of course, when the rpm was increased a bit and ign timing increased, it would go up toward 20" Hg...

You can try increasing the hot base idle speed to 600rpm if it makes the power steering pump happier. Not a big change, especially with a/c. Those quoted vacuum readings are really very good. Not "too high" at all, but what I'd term "normal". Is your "calibrated vacuum leak" supposed to...

Are you using the 1965 mounts on the mid-'70s block? Or the mid-'70s mounts that fit the block? Finding a shorter belt (or a smaller pulley) might be the trick? Enjoy! CBODY67

Strong suspicion that the base seat frames for all C-bodies of that model year range are the same thing. Just the padding and pattern/contours the covers are sewn in might vary. Just a suspicion, CBODY67