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That female Packard terminal has been crushed as well, will need to replace that one.

Yes, the fan speed selector switch is “off” in the low position, no continuity through the switch. There should be continuity from the black* to the light green side in medium only, then to the dark green side in high only. Some recent bench testing. B-body configuration, same basic circuits...

Looks like the pictured A/C/heater control may have suffered some heat damage as well. May need to verify the electrical section of the control is fully functioning internally. No low speed would indicate a problem in the switch/control. Adding some relays will reroute the blower motor current...

Don't draw your relay secondary power from the battery or starter relay if still running the factory dash mounted ammeter, should draw that power from the alternator directly.

From a older FBBO post, contains an email address. "If anyone is trying to get in touch with @crackedback and can't, you can email Rob at robule1@yahoo.com He seems like a great guy and thoroughly explained his relay systems to me, how they work and the install. I should be receiving mine...

Was quite content with running Hella E-code H4/H1 upgrades on pretty much everything I drove for many years. Until I picked up a Grand Cherokee with Bi-Zeon HIDs as a daily driver, now everything else looks too yellow, I prefer the “Modern White” 5700K Retrobrights these days on my classics...

Yea, I did those measurements a while back as part of a discussion/claim about LED headlights not drawing enough current to warrant the use of relays, that the stock 16ga 50+yearold wiring/components would be sufficient. If not clear by those numbers, strongly disagree.

Hella E-code (left) pattern comparison to Holley Retrobright (right)-lowbeam-4 lamp system highbeams Current draw comparison to the Retrobrights

Plug-in headlight relay kits are available, cheap ones and decent quality versions. Also fairly easy to build them DYI if possessing some basic electrical skills. The OE headlight wiring was/is woefully inadequate even for the original sealed beams. Be sure to draw relay secondary power from the...

A little more clarity on the later Chrysler externally shunted ammeters, how they work and just where the shunt is located originally. What are the construction differences between the earlier “full current” ammeters and the later externally shunted ammeters. Did moving to the externally shunted...

Speaking of the Miller C-3826 Building a Miller C-3826 clone is fairly easy.

I went to check my original print ’72 body manual, it too is misprinted with a copy of the front wiring labeled as rear. A couple of pages away I found a loose-leaf page tucked in that appears to be from a TSB binder with the actual rear body diagram, interesting.

Page 5-64 in the '72 body manual. Just noticed that's a copy of the front end wiring on the page before it.

That rear body harness diagram is on page 8-125 of the ’70 Plymouth service manual, the OP asked about a ’70. By ’72, some of the body related electrical diagrams were in the separate ’72 Body service manual. It’s my understanding Hamtrack Historical had to pull the service manuals because...

Interesting, a Mopar Performance P-number. Would that indicate the harness smoke level somehow relates to performance? Funny, not really seeing a need for replacement harness smoke, these harnesses seem to have the potential to generate an unlimited amount of smoke over and over again in the...

BTW, I recently dug out that “Fixture” and revamped it a bit for a new series of videos on common “vintage” Chrysler electrical systems that I am currently working on. Will go back over some of the material covered in last year’s videos, expanding out a bit on some other related circuits and...

As mentioned, it appears one terminal has been clipped, very common practice for rebuilders to do that after grounding the terminal to make a dual isolated field alternator into a single field alternator for use on a pre ’70 application. I would remove that brush assembly, or just the mounting...

Definite slip ring/contact issue there.

Yes, you can adjust the regulator down a bit to compensate but you are not really addressing the core voltage drop issue.

Definitely, a healthy battery in a low state of charge will draw some current for some time until it reaches a full state of charge. No factory electric chokes in ’70 but there are several other items on the ignition 1 circuit in the engine harness, blue or dark blue is the common color code for...