More electrical issues...this time brake lights

70furyiii

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You all continue to be a big help in my wiring issues...so here goes again...Long story short...Bought my 1970 Fury III with no headlights or tail lights. First, I got the tail lights and brake lights working, replaced the turn signal switch with aftermarket....not a good choice. I then got headlights to work after finding 2 wires not connected to power.

When I fixed the tail lights and brake lights, I realized two of the bulb sockets were bad...So I removed the bumper and replaced the sockets....Now I have no brake lights and my tail lights are incredibly dim. From dealing with the headlights...it seems I may have a bad ground. My question is...does the light bulb socket act as the ground? The sockets I purchased and installed are loose on the tail light housing. Not sure if this could cause my dim lights/no brake lights or not.

I also have a plug under the dash that does not go to anything...When I trace the wires, Yellow wire goes to firewall connection, black and red go to gauge cluster, and the second red wire goes towards the rear of the vehicle. Anyone have any idea what this could plug in to?

Again thank you for the help as always. I have learned so much about wiring on this car by looking at Mopar diagrams, but cannot find the issue with both of these problems.

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Yes, the lamp sockets need to be grounded. If they are loose, they are not grounding to the housing. Fitting currently available generic replacement lamp sockets in these cars can be a challenge these days. The plug is for an optional diode to enable a lights on warning buzzer.


Lamp buzzer.jpg

tail lamp wiring Fury.jpg
 
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Check the factory wiring schematic to look for grounds for the rear lamps. It'll show a wire with an arrow on the end touching several "stacked" lines at its end. Might be ONE ground per side, too.

I suspect that if you do not find a Plymouth-specific FSM at www.mymopar.com (might have to put that address in manually), a similar Dodge or Chrysler can work too.

CBODY67
 
Yes, the lamp sockets need to be grounded. If they are loose, they are not grounding to the housing. Fitting currently available generic replacement lamp sockets in these cars can be a challenge these days. The plug is for an optional diode to enable a lights on warning buzzer.


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I would like to add a lamp on buzzer to my 69 Fury III. Mine did not come with that feature but i after finding wiring to add ignition switch light timer I'm betting the wiring for the buzzer will be there.

I'm wondering if anyone has ideas on a more budget friendly option than what i'm finding on eBay - PN 2926815 / seem to be all in the $200 range (Example: NOS 1969 MOPAR DODGE PLYMOUTH HEADLIGHT RELAY WITH BRACKET #2926815 GTX CORONET | eBay ).
 
I would like to add a lamp on buzzer to my 69 Fury III. Mine did not come with that feature but i after finding wiring to add ignition switch light timer I'm betting the wiring for the buzzer will be there.

I'm wondering if anyone has ideas on a more budget friendly option than what i'm finding on eBay - PN 2926815 / seem to be all in the $200 range (Example: NOS 1969 MOPAR DODGE PLYMOUTH HEADLIGHT RELAY WITH BRACKET #2926815 GTX CORONET | eBay ).

This drove me crazy for about a year. The three harnesses I have were all missing this piece, so I’m guessing it either was an option or it was yanked out early on to stop the annoying noise. It’s also ‘70 only, I think, making it harder to locate. Turns out, the lamp-on diode in the diagram is a simple connection that uses the existing key in buzzer to signal the lights are on.

The sequence is ignition off, key out, headlights on and then the buzzer sounds. If the key is in you get only the key buzzer sound which is a different pitch and volume, all from the relay located behind the ash receiver next to the radio. The relay is a small transformer that has a coil. When activated it vibrates a metal tab to sound the buzzer, similar to an old bicycle horn.

After some research I found a very inexpensive homemade solution that looks factory. This all came from an E body forum. Here is the diagram I was looking at:

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This is what the original diode and connector looks like:

IMG_7353.jpeg


I was able to source the diode on Amazon, they came in bundles of 100, finally found a small pack of 20 for about $5:

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I happened to have a connector and some colored wire. Soldered it all together and it works and looks like the factory part.

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Just needs the factory part number tag, lol.

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It would be interesting to find out if your cheap alternate solution works, keep us posted. If not I have plenty of extra diodes I can pass along. Good luck!
 
This drove me crazy for about a year. The three harnesses I have were all missing this piece, so I’m guessing it either was an option or it was yanked out early on to stop the annoying noise. It’s also ‘70 only, I think, making it harder to locate. Turns out, the lamp-on diode in the diagram is a simple connection that uses the existing key in buzzer to signal the lights are on.

The sequence is ignition off, key out, headlights on and then the buzzer sounds. If the key is in you get only the key buzzer sound which is a different pitch and volume, all from the relay located behind the ash receiver next to the radio. The relay is a small transformer that has a coil. When activated it vibrates a metal tab to sound the buzzer, similar to an old bicycle horn.

After some research I found a very inexpensive homemade solution that looks factory. This all came from an E body forum. Here is the diagram I was looking at:

View attachment 738641

This is what the original diode and connector looks like:

View attachment 738642

I was able to source the diode on Amazon, they came in bundles of 100, finally found a small pack of 20 for about $5:

View attachment 738643

I happened to have a connector and some colored wire. Soldered it all together and it works and looks like the factory part.

View attachment 738644View attachment 738645

Just needs the factory part number tag, lol.

View attachment 738646

It would be interesting to find out if your cheap alternate solution works, keep us posted. If not I have plenty of extra diodes I can pass along. Good luck!
That's really cool, thanks for sharing! That raise another issue/question for me; in 69 key is in dash and i don't have a buzzer for that and i'm not sure if it was a thing in the Plymouth lineup. I don't have my FSM at home and was figuring a lot was the same as the 70 images posted in this thread. Anyway, i have an even lower low-buck plan, found this for $6; Pardon Our Interruption...
 
That's really cool, thanks for sharing! That raise another issue/question for me; in 69 key is in dash and i don't have a buzzer for that and i'm not sure if it was a thing in the Plymouth lineup. I don't have my FSM at home and was figuring a lot was the same as the 70 images posted in this thread. Anyway, i have an even lower low-buck plan, found this for $6; Pardon Our Interruption...
Interesting, so there is no key-in buzzer for '69, or yours is missing? For my solution to work you need the key-in buzzer. Maybe someone with a '69 can chime in here (pun intended) with a diagram or experience. It certainly wouldn't hurt to try these modern add-ons, I'm curious as to how they are wired up, they look self contained.
 
Wow. I REMOVE buzzers from ALL my rides as a matter of Principle. Had one in my '83 D150, but cured that in a few seconds....
 
Interesting, so there is no key-in buzzer for '69, or yours is missing? For my solution to work you need the key-in buzzer. Maybe someone with a '69 can chime in here (pun intended) with a diagram or experience. It certainly wouldn't hurt to try these modern add-ons, I'm curious as to how they are wired up, they look self contained.
I don't find a "Key-In" buzzer option in the 69 Fury Dealer Options/Dealership Data Book. However, I found a "headlight on" buzzer option. If anyone is familiar with where the socket is for that relay/buzzer on the 69 Plymouths i would be grateful.

The 1970 Hamtramck Registry - 1969 Plymouth Dealership Data Book - Fury

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The wiring for the buzzer is super straightforward (see pic) so even if i can't find the pigtail (which i'm pretty sure now i will find that) it

1761432288227.png
 
I don't find a "Key-In" buzzer option in the 69 Fury Dealer Options/Dealership Data Book. However, I found a "headlight on" buzzer option. If anyone is familiar with where the socket is for that relay/buzzer on the 69 Plymouths i would be grateful.

The 1970 Hamtramck Registry - 1969 Plymouth Dealership Data Book - Fury

View attachment 740366

The wiring for the buzzer is super straightforward (see pic) so even if i can't find the pigtail (which i'm pretty sure now i will find that) it

View attachment 740364
No key in buzzer for 1969. First year was 1970 and it was standard.
 
Yes, the lamp sockets need to be grounded. If they are loose, they are not grounding to the housing. Fitting currently available generic replacement lamp sockets in these cars can be a challenge these days. The plug is for an optional diode to enable a lights on warning buzzer.


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Thank you, that’s what I needed!
Hi there 72roadrunnergtx,
I bought the 72 Plymouth/Dodge/Chrysler FSM CD-ROM and going through all the wiring diagrams, I have not see the one that you posted above- the Fury body wiring diagram. Do you recall where you found that wiring diagram? I would like to source a copy.
I guess its on hamtrack.....??
 
Hi there 72roadrunnergtx,
I bought the 72 Plymouth/Dodge/Chrysler FSM CD-ROM and going through all the wiring diagrams, I have not see the one that you posted above- the Fury body wiring diagram. Do you recall where you found that wiring diagram? I would like to source a copy.
I guess its on hamtrack.....??
That rear body harness diagram is on page 8-125 of the ’70 Plymouth service manual, the OP asked about a ’70.

By ’72, some of the body related electrical diagrams were in the separate ’72 Body service manual.

It’s my understanding Hamtrack Historical had to pull the service manuals because someone licensed them for reproduction/reissue, may have to buy CDs or reprints now for some of the manuals. I think MyMopar.com may still some of manuals online.
 
That rear body harness diagram is on page 8-125 of the ’70 Plymouth service manual, the OP asked about a ’70.

By ’72, some of the body related electrical diagrams were in the separate ’72 Body service manual.

It’s my understanding Hamtrack Historical had to pull the service manuals because someone licensed them for reproduction/reissue, may have to buy CDs or reprints now for some of the manuals. I think MyMopar.com may still some of manuals online.
Thank you for your quick reply. Great information and much appreciated.
 
Cheers mate.

I shall print it off. Very helpful, and my Fury Gran Sedan says "thanks " as well!!

Print it, and SAVE THE SOFTCOPY REDUNDANTLY! The Pigs here are grabbing every loose bit they can on the Net, and hiring rotten copyright shysters to legitimate their grabs, even on material that had formerly been released to the public. I thank the Almighty and St. Isidore (Patron of the Internet) that I'm blessed with UNIX literacy, though the Big Boojieez have been poisoning even that well as much as they can.

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Cheers mate.

I shall print it off. Very helpful, and my Fury Gran Sedan says "thanks " as well!!
I went to check my original print ’72 body manual, it too is misprinted with a copy of the front wiring labeled as rear. A couple of pages away I found a loose-leaf page tucked in that appears to be from a TSB binder with the actual rear body diagram, interesting.

Fury body 7.jpg
 
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Print it, and SAVE THE SOFTCOPY REDUNDANTLY! The Pigs here are grabbing every loose bit they can on the Net, and hiring rotten copyright shysters to legitimate their grabs, even on material that had formerly been released to the public. I thank the Almighty and St. Isidore (Patron of the Internet) that I'm blessed with UNIX literacy, though the Big Boojieez have been poisoning even that well as much as they can.

View attachment 743585
Yeah, the world is getting nastier every year it appears.
I increasingly hear my mother despondently say " I'm glad I'm 80, and lived when I did..", as she sees the society around her going nuttier and brain-dead more and more .
 
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