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This is for one NOS rear side marker light for a '70-1 Plymouth Fury. It fits either side. $85 picked up here in San Diego, Ca. or add shipping and any PayPal costs. It will fit in a small flat rate box from the post office ($13). I ship to U.S. addresses only.

This is a new reproduction fuel sending unit made by Quanta Products for a '62-6 C-body. Comes with the gasket, filter, and brass float. It has a 5/16" line. $45 picked up here in San Diego, or add shipping and any PayPal fees. I ship to U.S. addresses only.

This is an NOS Mopar rear side marker kit for a '69-71 station wagon. It fits various Dodge, Chrysler, and Plymouth low line wagons, and may fit other applications, but, do your own research to verify it will fit yours. $50 picked up here in San Diego, Ca. or add shipping and any PayPal fees. It...

Just the switch itself along with it's attached wiring harness. The application is see it fitting is a '68 Imperial and a '70 B-body, but, it may fit many others. Do your own research to verify it fits yours. $75 picked up here in San Diego, or add shipping and any PayPal fees. The part itself...

This is an NOS Mopar tailgate lock cylinder with 2 keys for some '57-61 Dodge, Chrysler, Plymouth, and DeSoto Station Wagons. It also fits the '60-1 Valiant and Lancer SW's too. This is for a manual window, not power. Part# 2161599. Lock up the correct part for your car to make sure it's a...

Those photos are disc brake spindles. '68 and the '69-early '72 spindles are definitely different and don't interchange. The entire brake/spindle/ball joint assembly will, as a unit, but, no individual parts will. The '66-8 C-body uses the Budd brakes. The '69-up models use Kelsey Hayes.

I have NOS Mopar bearings and retainer plates should you want to go that route. I'd have to check on some of the other related parts as everything I have is individual, not in a kit. I think I have the seals too, but, gaskets, bearing retainer rings, and sponge gaskets I'm not sure. IIRC, my...

If the left front hub and drum assembly is in good shape, and matches the RF in material and inside diameter, I'd reuse them. Any major mismatch and the brakes might pull to one side when hot. Personally, I like to keep the drum swedged to the hub. I find it's easier to turn them on a lathe and...

Yup, Red with white vinyl top is correct. I don't know what A08 is that year (a package of some sort), but.....H53 is auto temp A/C, R48 is power antenna, L31 is fender mounted turn signal indicators, L35 is cornering lamps, M45 is fender skirts, P31 is power windows, P41 is power door locks...

Agree, if some valves are stuck open, pull the heads to get a better idea of how much rust you're working with. If the valves hadn't been stuck, and it was just some stuck rings, I had better luck popping things loose by using a pry bar in the starter hole to lever on the ring gear back and...

I used to use Rare Parts in Stockton, Ca. to get ball joints, and pitman arms rebuilt. Their number is 1-800-621-2008. Lyle is the guy I dealt with years ago.

So, you don't have a key to the ignition switch or the doors? If your ignition switch and lock are in good shape, I can key it to match your door cylinders. It would require you to pull all three and mail them to me though. I also have good used '69 only ignition switch/lock assemblies w/key...

There's a spring loaded Allen head bolt on the valve body where you can make that adjustment. You really should have a good manual to explain the procedure though. There are measurements that should be taken at the same time.

If you increase the line pressure, it will firm up your shifts nicely.

On some occasions, disabling an EGR valve can cause exhaust popping on deceleration.....mostly a manual trans thing, but, I've had it happen with an automatic too.

If the studs are spinning in the hub, the hole is bound to be oversize now for a stock stud. Press out the old one(s) and see if you can find an oversize replacement to press in. If not, either weld the stud in place, or get a replacement hub.....which means you will need to find a used one as...

Yes, the wear pattern and extra drum surface look correct. BTW, those brakes are the same as the '65-71 D100 pickups. Sometimes it's easier to find in the catalogs.

I agree with 413, either liquid rubber, or maybe unsolder and shrink tube whatever you can.

This is assuming that someone didn't plug an early Hemi in it. Their dizzy's are in the rear like a small block.

Just don't try and pull on the sheet itself. Grab the springs and pull them away from the paper to release it without damaging the sheet any further. It actually looks in pretty good shape, but, they can be very fragile after all this time.