Lug nut stud removal.

carguy300

carguy300

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Has anyone used a 12ton press to push out lug nut stud on brake drum? I have 2 on my 68 300 that you turn with your fingers. I have never done this before, would like to try and remove them before I have them welded in. Drums are in good shape, don’t really to wreck them. Any advise would be great!
 
The stud is swaged over where it pokes out of the drum and that needs to be removed before pressing the studs out.
 
Swages (or swedges) are small peening marks or a peened ring all the way around a stud that are made by a special press, that holds the stud into the drums, along with the spline which prevents the stud from turning in the hole.

Pushing them out with a press, or hitting them out with a BFH will possibly and very likely warp the drum and possibly ruin the hole for a new stud.

There are swage cutting tools, but using a Dremel and a small grinding stone will acheive the same result if wielded carefully.

Here you can see two examples in one picture - the stud on the left is UNSWAGED, and the stud on the right is SWAGED.
1756157301927.png


Here is a swage cutter
1756157437746.png
 
So this is what I have on these drums. It does look like some kind of a notch staggered around the stud. Not sure if that tool will cut down? What will hold the new ones in place tight?

IMG_6843.jpeg


IMG_6844.jpeg
 
@carguy300 you say that you have 2 studs that you can turn - by hand? They rotate freely in the hub and drum? If that's the case, then it shouldn't take a 12 ton press to get them out.

Otherwise, have a look here:

www.forcbodiesonly.com

Lug nut studs.

My 68 300 has 4 wheel power drum brakes and I have 2 lug studs that are not tight on right front, turning in hub. Ive never replaced studs before. Is this something done in my garage or does it need a press to remove and replace? Is this a simple repair or pain in the butt? HAPPY EASTER TO ALL!
www.forcbodiesonly.com www.forcbodiesonly.com

I just noticed - you started that thread back in April...
 
MoPar~Man said:
@carguy300 you say that you have 2 studs that you can turn - by hand? They rotate freely in the hub and drum? If that's the case, then it shouldn't take a 12 ton press to get them out.

Otherwise, have a look here:

[/URL]

I just noticed - you started that thread back in April...
Click to expand...
I thought I did but couldnt find that thread. I just now got drums off and ready to get this done. I removed old bearings, got new ones ready to go back. New studs first. Thanks for reposting, that helps alot.
 
If the studs are spinning in the hub, the hole is bound to be oversize now for a stock stud. Press out the old one(s) and see if you can find an oversize replacement to press in. If not, either weld the stud in place, or get a replacement hub.....which means you will need to find a used one as new ones were never available by themselves.
 
cudamark said:
If the studs are spinning in the hub, the hole is bound to be oversize now for a stock stud. Press out the old one(s) and see if you can find an oversize replacement to press in. If not, either weld the stud in place, or get a replacement hub.....which means you will need to find a used one as new ones were never available by themselves.
Click to expand...
^^This^^ - although I never thought about it until now. @cudamark is correct.
 
Ross Wooldridge said:
A hole saw will not have the cutting power - you need to use a proper swage cutter. The hole saw will just overheat and be frustrating.
Click to expand...
I've done them with hole saws. I grind the kerf off the teeth on the ID of the saw and run it slow in a drill press with a bit of cutting oil.
 
Well I tried to get them out but, the 5/8 hole saw I got was to small to go over the stud. I got the next size up I could find, 3/4", to big. I took my drum to a local shop and he welded them up. This should work for now, eventually I will either replace both drum/hubs or convert to disc. As long as it rolls and stops I happy!

IMG_6897.jpeg
 
Ross Wooldridge said:
A hole saw will not have the cutting power - you need to use a proper swage cutter. The hole saw will just overheat and be frustrating.
Click to expand...

Yes, an ordinary hardware store hole saw works just fine.

When I did mine, the local Canada tire and Home Despot did not have 5/8 inch hole saws, the smallest was maybe 3/4. I ordered three 5/8 from amazon, each was maybe 7 or 8 dollars, because I thought I'd wear them out. Turns out I only used one of them, and it lasted all 10 studs.

988.jpg


Size is stamped on it - 16 mm (0.63 inches). 5/8 = 0.625 inches. It's not a big job - you hardly take anything off. A swage cutter, from the pics I've seen, cut a really wide circle, double the width of these hole saws, and are 10 times the price. Totally unnecessary for this job.

948.jpg


This one was probably cut a bit more than was needed. If you're replacing the studs, go with these (black oxide finish):


stud.jpg
 
Last edited:
I guess the 16 mm would just be bigger enough to make the difference to go over the stud. I bought the 5/8" hole dozer bit from ace hdwr and was to dang small, never thought about metric size. If another goes bad, ill try it again.
 
carguy300 said:
I guess the 16 mm would just be bigger enough to make the difference to go over the stud. I bought the 5/8" hole dozer bit from ace hdwr and was to dang small, never thought about metric size. If another goes bad, ill try it again.
Click to expand...

But I really don't get it - your studs were turning. They should have been able to be pressed / pounded out with needing the hole-saw treatment.

The new studs I put in, I actually touched them up with a grinder (took some of the flutes down) so I could press them into the hub. They probably would have worked fine in your hub even if the holes were enlarged.
 
Well I thought they would to but, 3 lb sledge using a piece of hickory for shock and they did not move. I dont get it either but they aint goin nowhere now for sure!
 
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