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Agreed, going to clean up the block a bit more as right now the crack looks like it has spread to the other core plug, albeit a hairline crack. Drill holes, As in drill at the end of the crack as in drilling through to the other side of the water jacket? Just asking for clarification.

I will admit whole heartedly, I was considering just stuffing the crack with JB weld of sorts and if that doesn't leak. So be it. The Lock-N-Stitch is a good fix no doubt, I may consider that more strongly once other avenues fail at closing the crack/leak. I've seen on the classified ads...

You know that's the thing, I only discovered the crack after I wiped some of the surface grease off of the block. May have been cracked all this time when I was daily driving and I was non the wiser.

So a few days passed, I have got the valve body rooster comb detent gear selector adjusted, the engine cranks only in Neutral/park. and doesn't crank in any gears. I've confirmed and marked the offset Torque converter/Flexplate bolt holes ahead of time to ensure everything is all lined up when...

Agreed, I'm quite satisfied with the quality of the Flexplate, it's not bad for $72, + shipping & tax brings it up to around $98.

Ok, so aside from the block being cracked and needing to be pin stitched together. I managed to get another Flexplate that substantially looks more beefier than the stock/silver aftermarket Flexplate. It's SFI 29.1 rated for 3 years, let's be honest, not that I have any intention on replacing...

At this point, I'm sold on Lock-N-Stitch, figure if I can repair the block with the engine in place, while removing the steering components out of the way to gain more working access to the cracked area of the block. I might have been a bit hasty in casting off the engine off so soon...

Yes sir, I've been finding vids on block repair with the Lock-N-Stitch, seems like a very good repair from the looks of it!

Very encouraging to hear the block can be repaired with a success story. I've been looking around on various methods on repairing the block, from shadetree methods ranging from JB weld, all the way to pin/metal stitching. I think the company was named "Lock-N-Stitch" Just need to save up funds...

Thank you for the tip off, I'll definitely strongly consider getting the engine from the gentleman. The car is pretty clean, beauty is in the eye of the beholder... the engine burns a tad of oil (older photo) but the 361 was just enough of a motor to get me up and out of the way, and just...

As I was looking over the condition & the linkages and the block, made a discovery that I didn't need right now. I suppose an engine removal and metal stitching repair & or nickel rod welding is in my near future! What are the odds eh? pulls transmission for a rebuild, ends up needing an...

@Big_John Hey there, thanks for the link to the rubber plug, that worked great, appreciate it.

As the post is titled, I just wanted to put up photos up here in case someone was having problems assembling their own early A727's park lock cable. The photos will be clear to see to help the reader visualize the parts that need to secure to. Anywho, moving on. The way as I see it, the "T"...

Yes, I'm hoping things are going to go smoothly for me as well, the cable is not malformed in any way, so hopefully I can just yank the cable and set it at the pawl as you did. I'm probably going to start another thread on this cable rigging mission, it's summer time and the mosquitos are going...

Funny how I ran into this post as well, very relatable, the parking lock cable is SEIZED onto the jamb nut located on the park cable casing. And someone has used JB weld on the cable to the case, making the conventional removal of the lock cable impossible. In turn I somehow managed to...

Great write up sir! Didn't think the TC and the fluid inside could act like a shock absorber, the more you know. In the meantime, I suppose I'll wrestle the original Flexplate off of the crank and see if I can use that instead of the new Flexplate, if so that'll be great, just hoping the...

I thought about it for some time, but a weak point in the drivetrain like a Flexplate doesn't sound bad, considering a broken Flexplate is easily replaced, compared to an engine/transmission etc.

Hi there, the Flexplate bolts are indeed 5/16. Thanks for the offer though, But really I'm flat broke this month, I may take you up on that next month or so. Thanks. I think the double drilled hole for the crank bolt holes are to accommodate different size TC to crank interface? To be honest...

After a couple more cycles of grinding/checking the pump to TC impeller clearances, I believe the pump cover no longer grinds against the TC. Thank you to those that have chimed in, was afraid I needed to run the original TC that has metal shavings inside. Thankfully, I think I'm in the...

That's a tall order considering Diesels are torque monsters, was GM diesel trucks with the Flexplate that kept failing recalled/remedied in the end?