Search results for query: *

The fender tag format is the same as 1972 or so cars. That format is located in the "INFO" section of the Chrysler Parts Manuals. The related option codes are in the Order Guides can be found in the spreadsheet in the "Library" section at www.hamtramck-historical.com . Just click on the model...

In many cases, the shaft spacing can be the same, but it is the subtle differences in the bezel area that make the difference. For example, many of the pre-'67 C-body instrument panels might look like they could easily support a different or aftermarket in-dash unit, but when the flat...

"WTH is so hard"? Back then, every car's instrument panel was different and NOT flat. Curves, angles, peaks etc in the middle of the instrument panel area where the radio was. With a specific-to-the-car shaft spacing, usually, too. NOTHING universal, which is what all of the later "modern"...

Might be similar to some light-duty truck applications where there is an extra battery for the attached travel trailer to run off of? Factory "isolation" battery and harness, charged by the vehicles charging system. I know GM had such an option a while back. Might be more common in the travel...

Thanks for your perspective on this subject. CBODY67

In the classic generator or alternator power circuit, all of the output went through the gauge for an accurate indication of how much the generating device was working against the load of the electrical system items. Of course, the voltage regulator is a part of this circuit, too. That was...

When looking at the schematics, I usually just followed the gauge and color (some with "tracers" on them of a contrasting color) from one point to another, then past any junctions in the mix. The number is the gauge of the wire, with the letters afterward indicating the color of the insulation...

There is a connector that slides onto the main connector that has a male and female connector on it. to functionally splice two wires together. There are also some connectors that will take two wires, too. As "two wires into one plug". CBODY67

Not that I had ever worried about it, but all dual point units were the cast iron housing distributors and I wasn't aware the guts would transfer into an aluminum housing unit? Just curious, CBODY67

The only reason, that I know of, where an alternator was running the battery down, would be a defective diode in the alternator. Diodes designed to only keep voltage running "one direction" (to the output side of things). Other than that, a defective chime module can do the same, but I think...

If you don't have one, you can download the factory service manual file at www.mymopar.com . Remember, too, that when the cars were built, "LocTite" was not around, just mechanical things. Never had any issues with upgrading the 1-wire to the dual-field alternator used a few years later. As...

By that time, too, the vast majority of those cars have been restored/cloned so no need for OEM expensive parts as everybody's been buying the repro stuff for years. Which also fixed all of the ills of those earlier OEM hoods, too. Markets change . . .

What year and model of vehicle are you dealing with? Do the brake lights work on both sides, via the brake pedal? Just curious, CBODY67

FWIW, the Chrysler Saginaw columns are NOT the same as GM Saginaw columns. Finding a non- Saginaw collapsible steering column might be "a trick". Saginaw might have made the columns, but to Chrysler specs. When I took apart the Saginaw column on my '80 Newport, which looked to all the world...

Go down to the bottom of that page, then three notches to the right, and get the pair of the same thing for less than $5.00/pair.

The system is probably a GM-Guide system as GM had that option before other makes did AND sold more of them on Cadillacs and such in the 1960s. The light photocell receiver was usually on the instrument panel rather than on the outside cowl area. This option was probably a little more extreme...

Is there not a large, flat "clock-spring" on the regulator, as on the manual regulators? Is there a "gauge hole" in the regulator pieces that might be used to keep the window where it is, or similar? Might need a length of wood to hold things up while the motor is removed? Just some thoughts...

My '70 Polara/Monaco FSM, for Federal Emissions, indicates what your '69 FSM indicates as to hot base idle speeds. Back then, as I recall, the ONLY engines which needed a hot base idle speed over 700rpm were some California CAS-spec cars with manual transmissions. Like the 340s with manual...

The only time delay I knew of on my '70 Monaco was for the light that shines on the ignition key. Might check the "Library" at www.hamtramck-historical.com for the 1970 Plymouth Data Book "features" section? Does the car have "Twilight Sentinel" automatic hi-beam dimming? Just some thoughts...

Charging system check? Bulkhead connector terminals? Remove the cluster and clean the inner reflective surfaces, which are probably dusty? Good grounds to the body? Do the brightness checks at a "fast idle" engine speed. 20mg Lutein w/5mcg Zeaxanthin daily for a month (sounds unusual, but...