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In reference to the MAD Electrical article and its content relating to “Dodge” truck ammeters. The truck ammeters from that time (mid-seventies and up) had a plastic frame and was mounted to a plastic dashboard inner structure. The truck in question is a 1979 and as pictured in the article...

Basically. the same as the “House” or auxiliary 12-volt systems in R/Vs or marine applications. A separate electrical system based around a trunk mounted battery (typically deep cycle), having all audio components connected separately and isolated completely from the car’s electrical system...

That is correct, the only circumstance where the ammeter is exposed to full vehicle loads is when the engine is off, or engine is running, and the charging system is inoperative for whatever reason. These passenger car ammeters from this time are robustly constructed and can handle quite a bit...

Have posted a response to this on the latest "ammeter bypass" thread.

@CBODY67 Moving this reply to this most recent "ammeter bypass" thread, didn't want to hijack the other thread with this. Yikes, where to start with a response for that. I’m afraid you are repeating quite a bit of the old standard Mopar ammeter misinformation/hysteria with that post. First...

As long as you don’t plan to run high loads, the 10ga is better than the stock 12ga for that charging circuit. Just be sure to by-pass the bulkhead terminations if you are going to the trouble off rewiring. I would try to solder any questionable crimps.

For the headlight relay power wire to be extended to the alternator? Unless you are running some verry high wattage lamps, should be fine. Be sure what ever fuse protection you are running for the relays is also moved to be close to the alternator termination. The reference to 8ga wiring would...

The diagram prefix is more of circuit segment identification code. Each segment of a circuit will have its own code, some circuits with multiple circuit segments will change color coding as well.

For what reason?

For this charging system, as it was originally designed and with no modifications, all loading needs to take place on the alternator side of the ammeter as are all original factory loads. Adding lights/fans, connect the relay secondary power source at the alternator, not at the battery. There...

If this described by-pass is in place without any other modifications to the remainder of the stock under-dash wiring, it defeats all stock circuit protection in the event of a short in any part of the unfused factory circuits.

No circuit protection? You take on a great deal of wire burning/fire risk with that direct wire by-pass.

Wormhole? I guess you missed the point of the information presented. Thanks to Ohms law as it relates to parallel circuits, even with circuit protection, this bypass exposes all factory unfused circuits to, at a minimum, more than twice the amount of current the original fusible link was...

Now, are you sure you want to run that bypass?

Those two Packard terminals at the bulkhead connector have been failing since these cars were new. They served one purpose, to allow for a quicker assembly going down the line at the factory. There is no electrical need for them. They are not rated to handle anywhere near the expected/designed...

The bulkhead connector charge circuit Packard terminals are/were by far the weakest link in that original design. They should be bypassed altogether with a direct wire run through the firewall separately, directly through to the ammeter, as was the later “fleet bypass”. There is no need at all...

I couldn’t disagree more with that statement. Really, the Mad Electrical article? Read the preface carefully, it was written to address the later seventies Dodge truck plastic cluster framed ammeter fiasco. The passenger car ammeters/cluster are not constructed the same. This is has been the...

In 1970 Chrysler switched to an electronic, or solid state, voltage regulator for this system. Along with this change was the use of a “dual isolated field” alternator. Both field contacts being insolated from the alternator chassis ground. Full ignition 1 line voltage in on one side, with the...

The only condition where full vehicle loads run through the ammeter is when the engine is not running or running and the alternator has failed. During 99% of the operational run time, there should be little to no current flowing through the ammeter, only battery charging current, ammeter needle...

Funny, I’ve been battling misinformation/misconceptions about this charging system since my days working at the dealers back then. More recently, on-line on the various Mopar forums for years. Amazes me how the myth of the “spontaneously combusting” Mopar ammeter just continues on and on...