68 Plymouth Fury Wagon wiring.

crazyboutwagons

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Looking for a explanation of the wiring codes to replace the bulkhead connection block after a minor fire.
The service manual refers to each wire with letters & numbers .Such as A1B-10R which is the main power feed wire from starter relay to Bulkhead connector to a fusible link at bulkhead.It plugs into slot J on the middle plug.
Thanks in advance

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The way I understand it, A1B-10R would indicate circuit A1B, with the -10R being wire gauge and color as you figured out. This wire would be related to any other A1 or A1A circuits. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
 
When looking at the schematics, I usually just followed the gauge and color (some with "tracers" on them of a contrasting color) from one point to another, then past any junctions in the mix. The number is the gauge of the wire, with the letters afterward indicating the color of the insulation. Remember that a 10ga wire is smaller than an 8ga wire, for example.

I don't know that there is a master list of what the circuit numbers and such define to.

Consider doing the "Ammeter Bypass" when you do the wiring things. "Search" to find the threads.

CBODY67
 
The diagram prefix is more of circuit segment identification code. Each segment of a circuit will have its own code, some circuits with multiple circuit segments will change color coding as well.
 
For what reason?
In the classic generator or alternator power circuit, all of the output went through the gauge for an accurate indication of how much the generating device was working against the load of the electrical system items. Of course, the voltage regulator is a part of this circuit, too.

That was fine when the outputs of non-police vehicle generating devices was under abt 60 amps. BUT as the vehicles age, the gauges can age, too, which can increase resistance and resistance builds heat. Too much heat can make for other things to happen, too.

In abt 1972, Chrysler changed the charging circuit to run the alt gauge via a shunt, where the gauge would indicate only a little of the total charging activities. Which meant the needle didn't move nearly as much, but it did move. By abt 1976, heated rear windows were popular, which came with factory 100amp alternators to run them.

In abt 1970, GM started to phase-in voltmeters rather than ammeters into their vehicles. Claiming that it gave a better indication of the charging system's health. At the time, I didn't really believe that, as i wanted to see if the system was charging and how much, rather than looking at a voltmeter. But I adapted.

There are several threads on the "ammeter bypass" procedure and the reason for it in these forums. Prevention of instrument panel fires is a major reason for this procedure. Not hard to do.

Take care,
CBODY67
 
In the classic generator or alternator power circuit, all of the output went through the gauge for an accurate indication of how much the generating device was working against the load of the electrical system items. Of course, the voltage regulator is a part of this circuit, too.

That was fine when the outputs of non-police vehicle generating devices was under abt 60 amps. BUT as the vehicles age, the gauges can age, too, which can increase resistance and resistance builds heat. Too much heat can make for other things to happen, too.

In abt 1972, Chrysler changed the charging circuit to run the alt gauge via a shunt, where the gauge would indicate only a little of the total charging activities. Which meant the needle didn't move nearly as much, but it did move. By abt 1976, heated rear windows were popular, which came with factory 100amp alternators to run them.

In abt 1970, GM started to phase-in voltmeters rather than ammeters into their vehicles. Claiming that it gave a better indication of the charging system's health. At the time, I didn't really believe that, as i wanted to see if the system was charging and how much, rather than looking at a voltmeter. But I adapted.

There are several threads on the "ammeter bypass" procedure and the reason for it in these forums. Prevention of instrument panel fires is a major reason for this procedure. Not hard to do.

Take care,
CBODY67
Have posted a response to this on the latest "ammeter bypass" thread.
 
I believe the first part of the wiring number is to add you in picking up the wire when it goes to another page in the wiring diagrams. Is it circuit specific possibly, but I've not looked into it that deeply.
 
Easiest way(unless you buy the already colored wire diagrams on the web) is to get a good set of colored pencils and make copies of your diagrams. Trace the lines with the proper color pen and you will soon learn what wire feeds what circuit. The color will also help you find the right wire actually in the car. As stated the first number is the circuit so you can follow it as it jumps pages or crosses other circuits. And the second set of numbers/ letters is the gauge and color. If it has a tracer it will have an * after the color (stripes on the wire). Here are the color codes direct from the service manual.
On the bulkhead disconnect find the letter and go to the individual diagrams such as instrument panel diagram find the connector letter and trace on.
Happy coloring
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