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That's definitely where it went, lol. I think it was Yukon axles, 4.10 gear, 1350 yoke, and a conventional clutch type sure grip. I still remember when it showed up on a pallet at Roush!

I've bought two Dana 60's from Dr. Diff, one was a cut down truck housing when he was still offering those, that one had mostly Yukon parts in it. The more recent one was a Strange S60. Both transactions were great, definitely recommend him! That being said I am surprised he is out of stock...

I think I saw that same car in 2014 on vacation, was driving from Detroit to Florida.

That's super cool. Thinking about it further, in the late 80's/early 90's they weren't really collectible, assuming they were just daily drivers for people in non-rusty climates! I knew about the Dodge van they had but not the C's.

Just a quick update for this one - Mobil 1 15w50 has ~1300 ppm of zinc and is good for flat tappet cams. I wouldn't use 15w50 in a new build though unless your clearances are on the loose side...

All 4.

I have put those Mustang wheels on a ‘68 300, it required a set of bolt on wheel spacers. I think they were 1.5” but my memory is fuzzy, did it back in ~2006.

Great job, man! I was following your progress on the Facebook group before I deactivated mine earlier this year. Awesome to see another C body solidly in the 12's. Regarding the caltracs, I have the caltracs and B body monoleafs on my '68 Fury. If you have the same front spring segment...

Really love it sitting on the torq thrusts!!

Long story, but I've worked for Roush and currently work for Ford. My daily when I'm not driving work vehicles is a 2018 Raptor, and I spent a few years working on the SVT/Ford Performance programs- have a huge soft spot for the S197 Mustangs, especially the 13/14 GT500's. Just incredible...

Not sure how loose the tolerances are on your motor, but the 15w50 Mobil 1 (only the 15w50, not their other weights) has enough zinc for flat tappet cams. I've been running it in the 440 in my car with the .590 MP solid cam for 4 years with no issues, but the motor has been together since the...

Used my C body as part of the decorations for trick or treaters this year…

Likely made in USA, too!

I had to pop the center link off at the pitman arm as well to replace the oil pan, but that was on a big block- a smallblock you may be able to get away with not having to do it. Agree though, unless it's bent there really isn't a reason to replace it, all of the wear items attach to it (inner...

New dome light lenses!

They all are the same 2 conductor style bulb. The service manual lists the dome lights as 1004, the door/pocket panel lights as 90's, and the map light as 1445. It doesn't list a courtesy lamp for the Fury, but those would be 89's for the A and B bodies.

I typically like aftermarket wheels, have had 5 spokes on a '68 300 and my current '68 Fury. I wished mine were cast instead of polished center but I don't want to spend the money to swap them over, so polished it is. These are 15x7 front, 15x8.5 rear with a 295/65/15 drag radial. It doesn't...

I haven't seen one on the few I've had out of cars but I've not looked super hard either. The C body rear has the same perch width and is within 1/16" of an E-body rearend too.

My flood lights are still incandescent. It's reasonable for brightness after I cleaned up the lenses. Bigfury3, some cars have lights on either side of the footwell area. That looks nice too though!

Same as yours- just the housing and the slots in the panel that let the light shine through. I found my old map light with a butchered harness on it and it didn't have a lens either, and the NOS map light I bought didn't have one. I useds these warm white LEDs in the dome light and map light...